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bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1923

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Help safe mode temp needle rise and fall

Help!!!

My puma went into safe mode today

and the only other indication was the temp needle was going up and down? What does this mean? Ten minutes later it worked fine for a few miles then I walked to the dog and on my 15 minutes journey back home it done the same again

Any thoughts 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

10th Jan 2015 12:41pm

Cheshire110

Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2762

i guess try and see if its actually overheating? as many on here have said, the temp gauge flicks straight to the top at a certain temp rather than rising steadily. It also goes into limp mode on overheating.

mine had overheating problem once, replaced the thermostat and that was the problem. Put the old thermostat in hot water and it wasn't opening up fully. Theyre only cheap to replace but disassembling all the hoses was fiddly. Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.

10th Jan 2015 2:41pm

bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1923

Right the real account of what's happening, the first post was swmbo account,

The puma IS overheating

I drove it quite hard for a little stretch and the temp gauge started to rise turned the heaters on full and brought the temp down, it did have a power loss for a few seconds but returned to normal, still no fault or warning lights

Water in the expansion tank is a murky creamey colour not the usual bright green or blue etc.
Is the thermostat a diy job? Might flush out the system as well, what antifreeze should I use? I know they can't be mixed etc

2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

10th Jan 2015 4:04pm

NickH

Member Since: 01 Nov 2014
Location: Halifax
Posts: 204

If the coolant looks milky and its overheating sounds like head gasket failure and if you continue to run it .....well it wont be good

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news

2003 Td5 90
2013 sport hse
2012 700 raptor quad
2012 siromer 4x4 tractor

10th Jan 2015 6:12pm

bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1923

Any way to know for sure? It doesn't seem that type of milky just dirty! 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

10th Jan 2015 9:58pm

munch90

Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

Sure its not oil in the water , maybe oil cooler ?

rare for headgasket problem in tdci transits,

red antifreeze really , should be given a flush out if its on any other colour

10th Jan 2015 10:00pm

Cheshire110

Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2762

i'd probably start by draining coolant (good opportunity to check antifreeze level anyway before cold weather) and changing the thermostat. yes its a DIY job, just not a 10 minute one. Bit fiddly but doable. Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.

10th Jan 2015 10:32pm

bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1923

Ok sounds good,

What antifreeze is recommended. I undestand its the orange/red I should use,
How many litres fit in?
Any step by step instructions?

Thanks

11th Jan 2015 3:10pm

Rickydodah

Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

5 litres should take the concentration down to around-35c. The manual says to disconnect pipes into fuel cooler, but it's just as easy to remove bottom hose under the radiator. Drain water out, reconnect pipe and refill with neat anti-freeze/coolant and top up the header tank with water. There is a bleed nipple on one of the heater pipes close to the bulkhead on the passenger side. Run the engine up to temperature with the heater on, open the bleed nipple slowly and run until air free coolant comes out. Continue with this procedure until done and the coolant level in the header tank should be around 30mm above the level line when hot. If you don't mangae to bleed all the air out of the system you'll probably find that the heater blows cold at idle.
Definitely go with the Red coolant.

I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

11th Jan 2015 3:38pm

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