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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Swivel pins are best checked by jacking up one wheel and push/pulling the wheel with your hands at the top and bottom of the tyre. You need to try hard to overcome any preload resistance. 
Post #380365 19th Dec 2014 10:50pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
To be honest I can never see why so many people put so much emphasis on steering dampers, if the steering is set up properly, having a steering damper on or not won't make a blind bit of difference. The clue is in the name, a damper, it's a shock absorber to reduce sudden feedback from a wheel hitting an obstruction or pothole. If you have a part of the steering set up that is loose i.e. a swivel joint that is maladjusted or bushes that are shot the only thing the steering damper is good for is to soften the steering wheel shake, putting an all singing steering damper on will only mask the problem not cure it.
Post #380367 19th Dec 2014 11:02pm
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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Try driving a 101 with a shot damper JW...... Rolling Eyes 
Post #380368 19th Dec 2014 11:06pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I know where you're coming from Laurie but my argument stands, with the steering set up properly and with tyres designed to be round and true then you'd have a different experience. With the 101 they were never really designed for road miles, that part of the design was at a compromise to the main requirement of being a gun tractor. The designers didn't put the squaddie drivers very high up on their designs for comfort Whistle
Post #380370 19th Dec 2014 11:14pm
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charliebaja



Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 211

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
So who has changed their own swivel joints and how easy or hard was it?
Post #380421 20th Dec 2014 10:03am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 808

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
It is fairly straightforward, if not a little expensive if you choose to replace the actual swivel as well, which I did. (Cost Round £500 using a combo of oem and genuine).

You could do everything at a very leisurely rate in a weekend. You might need a spring weight thingy (technical term) to test the preload, but to be honest you can do it by 'feel'. They should be quite tight and have quite a lot of resistance...more than you would expect anyway. They certainly should not be flopping about. Also, using another jack to hold the swivel in place as you assemble the top end helps a lot.

there will be plenty help available on here anyway, should you need pointers. 2002 110 td5
Post #380426 20th Dec 2014 10:44am
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
As above, having good decent sockets/spanners are a must which cut out a lot of frustration.
Post #380436 20th Dec 2014 11:39am
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NickH



Member Since: 01 Nov 2014
Location: Halifax
Posts: 204

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Rimini Red
@ JWL

Well said and accurate about the steering damper Thumbs Up , it makes me laugh how many people fit super dooper steering dampers and tell you it cured their fault......er errr (insert family fortunes noise)
A proper set up land rover doesnt need one, they only fit them to absorb kickbacks on potholes.

Biggest thing is setting up swivel preload without seal installed... unless you have done lots of them and know how it should feel.

I hope all goes well charliebaja 2003 Td5 90
2013 sport hse
2012 700 raptor quad
2012 siromer 4x4 tractor
Post #380594 20th Dec 2014 11:10pm
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charliebaja



Member Since: 05 Aug 2013
Location: Surrey
Posts: 211

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zermatt Silver
I went under the car this morning and had a look at the swivels, bearings and panards. The panards bushes seem to be slightly loose, but will have a proper look on Monday with the tools at work. In the meantime thank you for all your help in this matter.
Post #380598 20th Dec 2014 11:24pm
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NickH



Member Since: 01 Nov 2014
Location: Halifax
Posts: 204

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Rimini Red
I forgot to say.... another tip when replacing swivel housings...
when you remove the ring of bolts holding it to the axle case, the top bolt is a dowel bolt, it has a thicker shank than the rest.
Grind the shank down or buy another "ordinary" bolt to replace it with. When you refit the housing to the axle fit all the bolts and rotate the swivel housing , the part nearest the front bumper wants lifting up before you tighten the bolts fully.
This slightly increases your castor angle and helps self centering and reduces kickback. You can also do this to just one side if your defender pulls left or right. Now I have bored everyones a*se off......i'll get my coat Embarassed 2003 Td5 90
2013 sport hse
2012 700 raptor quad
2012 siromer 4x4 tractor
Post #380599 20th Dec 2014 11:32pm
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