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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
To be honest I can never see why so many people put so much emphasis on steering dampers, if the steering is set up properly, having a steering damper on or not won't make a blind bit of difference. The clue is in the name, a damper, it's a shock absorber to reduce sudden feedback from a wheel hitting an obstruction or pothole. If you have a part of the steering set up that is loose i.e. a swivel joint that is maladjusted or bushes that are shot the only thing the steering damper is good for is to soften the steering wheel shake, putting an all singing steering damper on will only mask the problem not cure it.
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Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Try driving a 101 with a shot damper JW......
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I know where you're coming from Laurie but my argument stands, with the steering set up properly and with tyres designed to be round and true then you'd have a different experience. With the 101 they were never really designed for road miles, that part of the design was at a compromise to the main requirement of being a gun tractor. The designers didn't put the squaddie drivers very high up on their designs for comfort
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charliebaja Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 211 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So who has changed their own swivel joints and how easy or hard was it?
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Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
It is fairly straightforward, if not a little expensive if you choose to replace the actual swivel as well, which I did. (Cost Round £500 using a combo of oem and genuine).
You could do everything at a very leisurely rate in a weekend. You might need a spring weight thingy (technical term) to test the preload, but to be honest you can do it by 'feel'. They should be quite tight and have quite a lot of resistance...more than you would expect anyway. They certainly should not be flopping about. Also, using another jack to hold the swivel in place as you assemble the top end helps a lot. there will be plenty help available on here anyway, should you need pointers. 2002 110 td5 |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As above, having good decent sockets/spanners are a must which cut out a lot of frustration.
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NickH Member Since: 01 Nov 2014 Location: Halifax Posts: 204 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
@ JWL
Well said and accurate about the steering damper ![]() A proper set up land rover doesnt need one, they only fit them to absorb kickbacks on potholes. Biggest thing is setting up swivel preload without seal installed... unless you have done lots of them and know how it should feel. I hope all goes well charliebaja 2003 Td5 90 2013 sport hse 2012 700 raptor quad 2012 siromer 4x4 tractor |
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charliebaja Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 211 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I went under the car this morning and had a look at the swivels, bearings and panards. The panards bushes seem to be slightly loose, but will have a proper look on Monday with the tools at work. In the meantime thank you for all your help in this matter.
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NickH Member Since: 01 Nov 2014 Location: Halifax Posts: 204 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I forgot to say.... another tip when replacing swivel housings...
when you remove the ring of bolts holding it to the axle case, the top bolt is a dowel bolt, it has a thicker shank than the rest. Grind the shank down or buy another "ordinary" bolt to replace it with. When you refit the housing to the axle fit all the bolts and rotate the swivel housing , the part nearest the front bumper wants lifting up before you tighten the bolts fully. This slightly increases your castor angle and helps self centering and reduces kickback. You can also do this to just one side if your defender pulls left or right. Now I have bored everyones a*se off......i'll get my coat ![]() 2013 sport hse 2012 700 raptor quad 2012 siromer 4x4 tractor |
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