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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756

Wales 
How would you blanket the radiator...
300 tdi with alisport intercooler. Always runs cool but takes too long to warm up in winter so plan to shield some of the rad to speed it up a bit. Question is, how to most effectively blanket the radiator without compromising on the intercooler performance. Following diagram shows set up, green is intercooler which is in front of radiator (red). How much area to cover? Top, bottom, left, right??? Anyone care to share an opinion?

Post #378297 12th Dec 2014 12:03am
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Alive Tuning



Member Since: 01 Mar 2010
Location: Louth
Posts: 609

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
When the engine is on warm up, the thermostat is shut and so the coolant does not flow through the radiator at all! Exclamation

Switching off the cab heater fan, and driving/loading the engine will warm the engine faster. The heater matrix acts just like a coolant radiator too, remember! Idea

Radiator Muff's are a dumb idea!!! Rolling Eyes
Post #378300 12th Dec 2014 12:11am
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dnorrishill



Member Since: 15 Jul 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 615

England 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
I had one on my td5 one winter and it made no difference what so ever.

I think if you read the small print too they say they are to stop crud getting into rad when off road as opposed to making the heater more efficient.

Best options I had were an alisports uprated heater matrix or webasto (or similar).
Post #378311 12th Dec 2014 7:30am
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756

Wales 
My big trouble is that I live in the hills and majority of my trips would be to town 10 miles away and then home again later in the day. Town is, however, all downhill from here, so in winter the gauge will barely lift going to town. Coming home it is not so bad, but it is usually not so cold outside either then Smile

In summer, or while towing, the gauge will rise to half way within about 3 miles so nothing wrong with cooling system, just in winter when not working hard it is obviously overcooled.
Post #378339 12th Dec 2014 9:03am
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

The best way to achieve a warmer engine would be to change the stat. So it runs warmer. But that's a bit invasive for a seasonal change unless you are so inclined to-do so.

Lots of people I've met say good things about an electric fan in place of the viscous fan. Personally I've never felt compelled enough to change mine. But I imagine the engine could be allowed to run a little warmer when cruising if you add a switch to the fan to turn it off.

I have spoken to a few people that have simply removed the viscous fan and stuffed it in the boot with a fan spanner (just incase its needed on a journey ) lets face it for such a short journey and given your engine isn't warming up to optimal the fan isn't desperately needed.

I considered a webasto to heat up the cab in the mornings as I'm certain on a cold day I could let mine idle for 12 hours and it'll never warm up haha. But cab heaters are quite pricey
Post #378343 12th Dec 2014 9:55am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
Like Alive said, switch the heater off and the engine will probably get warm. Whistle Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #378344 12th Dec 2014 9:57am
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756

Wales 
Kind of defeats the object! I have nothing against a cool running engine.... except when I want heat in the heater matrix. To be fair the heater matrix would probably suffice as a radiator for much of winter, if it were possible to divert water there instead of the main rad. However, this not being practical I (mistakenly it seems) kind of assumed that reducing the effectiveness of the main rad would somehow make the engine water temperature a bit higher when the engine is not under any sort of serious load.

Ah well. Will leave it as it is I guess. Thanks for replies
Post #378347 12th Dec 2014 10:09am
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Timo K



Member Since: 23 Aug 2012
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 171

Finland 
I already popped out my viscous fan. Its just a quick turn with the fan spanner. It's hovering around +-5 celsius here. When it gets properly cold I'll had a radiator blanket.

No probs with heat even at motorway speeds. The cooling system is designed to handle desert temps, and during the winter at -25 degrees C it just never gets warm.

Also keep in mind it's not good if the engine doesn't get to its proper operating temp. Lubrication suffers and wear increases.
Post #378352 12th Dec 2014 10:39am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
trouble is the cold air going through the rad will also cool the engine block, head etc down making it longer to warm up as well

covering the rad is not ideal , but a restriction in air flow will help , but need to remember if there is a warmer bit of weather or you need to do a motorway run etc to uncover it
Post #378361 12th Dec 2014 11:36am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Give your heater matrix a wash through with a hose to clear the crud out of it.

I do mine every winter and it seems to perk it up a bit.

I am aiming to do the Nordkapp run next year so have opted for a webasto heater which I'm slowly gathering parts ready to install.

You think a 300Tdi is a slow warmer, in my 200Tdi I regularly get all the way to work after a 25 mile journey and the temperature gauge still hadn't reached middle Big Cry Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #378394 12th Dec 2014 1:36pm
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756

Wales 
Nothing wrong with heater matrix. The truck was basically a new build 2 years back. When the water around the engine gets hot, the heater is hot, just in cold weather and with engine not working very hard, it never gets especially warm (top of the blue). Stick 3 tonnes on the back or hit the motorway at 80 for 20 mins and she will soon hit halfway on the gauge and stay there all day long.
Post #378456 12th Dec 2014 5:49pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2645

Scotland 
Mountain_man wrote:
Kind of defeats the object! I have nothing against a cool running engine.... except when I want heat in the heater matrix. To be fair the heater matrix would probably suffice as a radiator for much of winter, if it were possible to divert water there instead of the main rad.


That's effectively what the thermostat does.

The engine should be hot within 5 miles of normal driving on country roads. However if you're all downhill to town then that will be the crux of the issue. Blocking the airflow will help this to a degree but I wouldn't bother personally, your issue is the lack of work the engine is doing.
Post #378483 12th Dec 2014 6:52pm
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4660

Ireland 
On the 110 200 tdi, when Winter came I had a fancy highly technical mod for the radiator to help warm up time. I had a piece of cardboard cut from a box painted black with duct tape around the edges. This was inserted into the lip at the bottom of the radiator and the lip at the top. There it sat all winter doing it's job until removed and refitted next Wiinter. Don't cover the intercooler and don't cover the radiator completely. You can experiment with different sizes by watching your temperature gauge. As far as I remember my cardboard covered just over half of the radiator face. By painting it black and putting duct tape around the edge of it you make it waterproof and making it invisible to all intents and purposes. All you have to do to fit it is to remove and refit the plastic grill. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #378536 12th Dec 2014 9:15pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
IMHO it really depends on your situation , I did not bother with a blanket etc for the Arctic because the engine was running for hours and the block heater already heated up the engine but in Mark's situation I'd just block as per his rectangles. To be honest if that does not do the trick just blank off less until you get to a happy medium... My 2p

Alternatively get a webasto block heater or an electric block heater
Post #378544 12th Dec 2014 9:36pm
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Kent_keith



Member Since: 01 Jun 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 388

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
I bought a radiator muff and installed it last Saturday, I was driving the defender to Dover in the afternoon and left the flap down just to see what affect it had on the temperature, the temperature gauge never went over the normal position (pre-muff) but I think it warmed up a little quicker and the heater was a little hotter. Plus I think it looks cool others may disagree Very Happy 2005 TD5 90 CSW XS
Post #383065 29th Dec 2014 4:43pm
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