 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > puma trailer electrics |
 
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| johnnyturbo2002 Member Since: 21 May 2009 Location: Poniente Granadino Posts: 371   
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I have no idea, but I would guess that 2 hours to do "something" in the dash will run a pretty franc in the good ol Schweiz...my guess is that they will stick you for over 500 francs by the time they are done. Independent? 2008 Defender 110 60 year Edition (sold unfortunately)
IN the hunt for another Puma for the wifey! 2008 Kia Sorento LX 😁 2.5crdi |
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10th Aug 2010 7:59am |
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| jlerra Member Since: 10 Jul 2009 Location: Gibraltar/London Posts: 149  
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Hi,
You've been ripped off!!! You can do it yourself in less than 30 minutes. All you need to do is seek out the connector behind the plastic 'shield' on the wheel arch and attach the trailer socket to it - done. If you are really fussy (and handy with a drill), you may want to mount the trailer socket on to the rear chassis crossmember by drilling 3 small holes by the recess 'square aperture' and attaching the trailer socket with the 3 small screws and nuts - a neat fix!! Don't let them rip you off. El pepe flamenco JLS 'El Pepe Flamenco' |
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10th Aug 2010 8:46am |
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| BBSJK Member Since: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ledbury, Herefs Posts: 100  
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I think the 'something in the dask' is the the 2nd electrics or fitting a 13 pin plug. There is an ignition feed near the radio so that the trailer does not draw power when the ignition is off.
Jonathan No the other left . . . |
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10th Aug 2010 9:52am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17478  
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Standard 12N type 7-pin socket is a very quick job.
12S supplementary socket or a fully wired 13-pin socket probably will take a couple of hours. Both the 12S and the 13-pin sockets include both a permanently live and a switched (ignition on) live which are more complex to install. |
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10th Aug 2010 11:00am |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 502 
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If it's for the Euro 13-Pin Towing Connector, then in addition to the 9-way socket under the wheelarch, there's a loom that's run forward to the battery box, with a relay mounted into the battery box and a trigger wire for that relay, taken from a splice into an ignition switched live on the back of the HRW switch.
. Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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10th Aug 2010 11:02am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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thanks guys for all the replies. it is just a standard tail board electrics, I will buy the part and fit it myself.
ordered the rear step like dgardel's, collecting on thursday, fitting at the w/e. cheers all bpman |
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10th Aug 2010 5:12pm |
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| niglyn Member Since: 12 Jun 2009 Location: Surrey Posts: 82 
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Should be able to be fitted in less than one hour, especially id it is done at the dealers where they have done them before & can put them on the ramp for easy access. It is so simple you could just buy the parts & fit it yourself. It is worth buying the genuine LR kit as it fits nicely and comes with instructions, all cable ties etc.
Most of the electrics just plug into a connecter under the wheel arch. Another part of the loom has to be run along the chassis into the battery box, where the relay for fridge power it fitted & the constant 12v live for aux power & charging the caravan battery is fitted.(the relay for connecting the caravan battery only when the car is running is now fitted within the caravan) A single wire is then run up under the dash (instructions tell you to remove the radio for access) and then conected to a switch to the right of the radio, this is for ignition sense. All very easy. There are two configurations of towing electrics now (apart from either a 13 pin or 12N & 12S) and centres around the caravan battery. In the old days a 'split charge' relay would be fitted which would connect the caravan battery for charging only when the dynamo was running fast enough. With modern alternators this is no longer nessasary. the caravan used to have 3 power feeds, one constant, the other two via two relays. One for fridge and one for caravan battery. Nowdays there is only one relay fitted in the car which feeds the fridge. A second constant 12V connects to the battery for charging but via a relay which is fitted as standard in modern caravans, in turn the relay is operated by the fridge feed which is only on when the car is running. I know what you are thinking " can I just connect the battery and fridge feed together?" No as the fridge would discharge the battery. All make sense? The only problem comes when connecting an older caravan to a car with newer electrics. The simplest way is to mod the caravan electrics to the new standard, the other option is to mod the car. this is what I do, that way I can connect to either system and it will work fine. I is just two wires and another relay, but I wo'nt bore you with the full dtails here. |
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18th Aug 2010 12:34pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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thanks Niglyn for the comprehensive reply, but I only want trailer electrics, so i think it's only the plug behind/inside the wheel arch.
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18th Aug 2010 5:19pm |
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| niglyn Member Since: 12 Jun 2009 Location: Surrey Posts: 82
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for trailer electrics only, should take you about 10 minutes. The hardest part is getting at the two screws that secure the plastic liner in the wheela arch. The LR electrics are of the correct length and all pre-terminated both ends so you just plug it in. That is it, job done.
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21st Aug 2010 9:50am |
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| alantd Member Since: 14 Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 1513 
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Fitting instructions for the supplementary towing electrics can be found HERE One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition |
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27th Aug 2010 9:16am |
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