 | Home > Off Topic > Living with a solid fuel rayburn |
 
|
|
|
| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5117   
|
I have an Aga and I love it but be careful when burning wood in these types of ranges as some wood can really soot the thing up. same as with your wood burner.
Here is a guide explaining about wood to burn in stoves ad Log burners Alder Produces poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor Apple A very good wood that bums slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce sparking or spitting. Good Ash Reckoned by many to be one of best woods for burning, it produces a steady flame and good heat output. It can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very good Beech Burns very much like ash, but does not burn well when green. Very good Birch Produces good heat output but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned; however the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good Cedar Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat output. It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good Cherry Is a slow to burn wood that produces a good heat output. Cherry needs to be seasoned well. Good Chestnut A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output. Poor Firs (Douglas etc) A poor burning wood that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Poor Elm Is a wood that can follow several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for two years for best results. Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done early. Medium Eucalyptus Is a fast burning wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned. Poor Hawthorn Is a good traditional firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very good Hazel Is a good but fast burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. Good Holly Is a fast burning wood that produces good flame but poor heat output. Holly will burn green, but best dried for a minimum of a year. Poor Hornbeam A good burning wood that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. Good Horse Chestnut A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good (For stoves only) Laburnum A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Poor do not use Larch Produces a reasonable heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Medium Laurel Burns with a good flame but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. Medium Lilac Its smaller branches are good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. Good Maple Is a good burning wood that produces good flame and heat output. Good Oak Because of its density, oak produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. Good Pear Burns well with good heat output, however it does need to be seasoned well. Good Pine (Including Leylandii) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well seasoned. Good (with caution) Plum A good burning wood that produces good heat output. Good Poplar A very smokey wood with a poor burn. Very poor Rowan Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very good Robinia (Acacia) Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. It does produce an acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (For Stoves only) Spruce Produces a poor heat output and it does not last well. Poor Sycamore Produces a good flame, but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. Medium Sweet Chestnut The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (For Stoves only) Thorn Is one of the best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces very little smoke. Very good Willow A poor fire wood that does not burn well even when seasoned. Poor Yew A good burning wood as it has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very good |
||
25th Nov 2014 2:04pm |
|
| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
|
I grew up with Rayburns/Agas and came across ones of all vintages in tied cottages over the years. One of the main tricks is knowing which wood gives the best results for the siuation you want, Softwoods like dry pine will burn very quickly and will give a good amount of heat, if it's wet or recently felled it will tar the chimney along with a lot of smoke. As a rule I could light a cold Rayburn with kindling and a dryish pine or well dried logs and get the thing up for cooking within ½ hour and for long slow burns have a good layer of embers and put a good lump of a dense hardwood or the real knotty lump that won't split and shut all the flaps right down. It was rare that the thing would be right out in the winter time and would often go 10 to 12 hours with a good lump on, living on farms gave us access to some decent overnight lumps such as chestnut, oak apple etc. We would only empty the ashes once a day when running them 24 hours, probably every other day when just using at night.
I must admit to missing the 'experience' but after moving to a 70's built box we have these gas powered things where you just press a button, even my woodburner is a fake but I don't have to keep feeding them or cleaning the ashes and trailing them all over the house  |
||
|
25th Nov 2014 2:16pm |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Are wood chips/pellets not suitable,or is it a cost v free thing.Google sez £250 a tonne. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
|
||
|
25th Nov 2014 4:01pm |
|
| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5117
|
I may be wrong but I have been told that chips and pellets demand a special burner as they create a lot of woodgas that can cause a small explosion in a stove or log burner. Pellets and wood chips are more expensive than logs as well
|
||
|
25th Nov 2014 4:19pm |
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5889  
|
This is most certainly off topic for a car forum, although having said that there are quite a few people who live with stoves in their vehicles here in Chamonix
Can't offer any more help, except not to use hexi-blocks....  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
||
|
25th Nov 2014 5:19pm |
|
| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5117
|
I could not live without my wood burner its heat output is amazing I also have one of the best things since sliced bread mounted on top of the burner which is a fan assist it really works and circulates the hot air all through the room, a must have if you have a log burner.
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
||
|
25th Nov 2014 6:04pm |
|
| Stue5 Member Since: 06 Jul 2014 Location: Marche Posts: 111  
|
A friend has installed a pellet burner this summer, he said that it was meant to be the cheapest way to heat his house....... but only time will tell. I find proper log burners satisfying/mesmerizing to feed/watch. (beats a tv).
I saw a aga type in a showman's wagon the owner said he had to used wood with a moister content no more than 20% but it was very economical( norsic brand?) Range Rover p38 4.6 99 lpg(gone  ) |
||
|
25th Nov 2014 7:02pm |
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5889
|
We have just renovated an old farmhouse in the Alps and wanted to pop a burner into the living room. We had budgeted for the stove but not the flue. As it has to pass through a barn void that is 8m high, it has to be insulated, secure, etc etc. The price was 1000€/linear metre.
 So no matter how lovely they are (and they are) it had to be put on the back-burner  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
||
|
25th Nov 2014 7:09pm |
|
| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471  
|
We have a solid fuel AGA that's been in the property since the 1950's. Originally designed to burn smokeless fuel so that's what it gets, a bucket load at night and it stays in 24/7. I have a woodburner which works a treat in what was the farm office that has an old red tiled floor which is fed from wood gathered around the place. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
||
|
26th Nov 2014 10:58am |
|
| Mattyboy Member Since: 05 Dec 2012 Location: Sudbury Posts: 58 
|
That's interesting Steve, Does you're need only need one load of coal a day? I've got a ton of smokeless ready for when it gets cold. Cost wise how much coal do you get through? 07 Defender 90 TDCI
98 Defender 90 300 Tdi Land Rover Freelander MG B GT CBR 600 AEC Matador but no washing machine |
||
|
26th Nov 2014 11:30am |
|
| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897 
|
Our Rayburn was connected directly to the hot water cylinder when we bought our cottage. (Rusty baths if it got near boiling point!)
Check whether yours is the same and re-plumb to indirect if it is. (Same thing with radiators.) |
||
|
26th Nov 2014 12:06pm |
|
| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5117
|
If the burner is attached to an outside wall could you not go through the wall and vent the flue outside that is how my flue is affixed straight up the outside wall to just above roof level. There is also a removable plate just above the exit that allows you to sweep the flue if necessary. Can’t quite recall how much the flue was but in the region of £300.00 fitted I think. |
||
|
26th Nov 2014 1:13pm |
|
| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
|
I've got to agree with Laurie on the point that your hot water tank needs to be heated by an indirect method. The water heated by the Rayburn needs to be sealed and not be what comes out of your taps, when I redid my hot water system in the last cottage I renovated I had a 200l hot water cylinder with pipework that was coiled inside it that the water from the Rayburn passed through which in turn heated the water in the tank. The radiators were run off the sealed system as well so when the Rayburn heated the water in its boiler, hot water circulated through the tap water tank, the central heating was a normal set up with a circulation pump that pumped water round the radiators with a diverter valve fitted to isolate the tap water tank so hot water didn't get robbed back from there. I did put a gravity fed radiator on the upstairs landing to help with not cooking everything when the tank was hot and the central heating not on.
In the 2½ years we lived there before we sold the cottage we never used the electric immersion heater as in the summer the tank would give hot water for at least a couple of days, and even if we'd been away there'd be hot water in the tank an hour after lighting up. I now have a gas combi boiler that is only on to heat what I use but there's no character, bit like the difference between driving a jelly mould to experiencing our Defenders |
||
|
26th Nov 2014 1:53pm |
|
| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
|
Yep, one galvanised bucket [or 1/2 a hod] put in the AGA at night is enough to keep it in until the same time next night, in fact it will probably keep it going until the following morning too. I only riddle when I refill at night and empty the ash every couple of days. 15 sacks of anthracite from the local yard will almost fill the bunker, I guess that will last us 3 months or more. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
||
|
26th Nov 2014 2:59pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
