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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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I would say the lack of grease is the main problem with these splines , same as the drive flanges , grease them and doult you will ever have to replace the drive flanges or gearbox spline
I greased my flanges when defender only a week or so old and still as new and done gearbox spline a while ago ( still good just greased ) if there replaced under warranty due to play after a while , do they grease bother to them then ? lack of commom sense when built Last edited by munch90 on 6th Nov 2014 5:54am. Edited 1 time in total |
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5th Nov 2014 7:59pm |
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| PAT303 Member Since: 25 Feb 2013 Location: Australia Posts: 125  
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It seems Australians aren't immune,mine failed yesterday,12 weeks out of warranty at 97K. Pat
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5th Nov 2014 10:34pm |
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| chadjizz Member Since: 25 Apr 2012 Location: sussex Posts: 559 
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my 60 plate 90 failed 4 days ago. only covered 14,000 miles...! ridiculous! 11 months out of warranty, full service history by main dealer and they turn to me and say "incorrect grease used".... i replied, "your the only place that has serviced it!!"
it went quiet after that. im not going to let this one drop, Landrover is paying for this repair! |
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13th Dec 2014 10:23pm |
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| flying_low Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Masai Mara Posts: 19  
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Hi all,
Sadly I'm relieved to find this thread after a week and a half of troubleshooting which had me find issues I did t know I had- have finally arrived at the conclusion this "intermediate shaft" failure big has bitten me. 
Anyhow if anyone has any info /done a how to on getting this shaft out /inspected please could someone point me to it? Am still searching thru the forums here but any help appreciated. I'm broken down in the masai mara and about 350 kms from any proper garage so doing it all myself. Not much point in towing it into town. Would like to know if anyone has an idea if it would be necessary to drop the G box as well, or just te T Box needs to come out? Been almost at my wits end but really relieved to hear this might be an issue that LR might hack to resolve eventually- for now I just need the girl moving! BTW have just changed out clutch slave and master cylinders after some eejit (me) contaminated fluid which killed the seals leaving me stuck in neutral. Many thanks in advance! 2011 110 Tdci 1982 Range Rover V8 Classic (Gone) |
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19th Jan 2015 7:43pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353  
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No need to remove (or even drain) the gearbox.
Remove the transfer box, then remove the gearbox extension housing. The splined coupling is then revealed. There's a seal retainer secured by a cable tie, then a rubber seal, then the male part will pull out of the female. The manual says use a slide hammer for this. The female part is held on the gearbox output splines by a tight threadlocked setscrew, and there is a special tool to hold the female splined part while the screw is loosened which helps but bush methods may also work. Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling, but lubricate the splines generously before assembling. It is a 2 to 3 hour job in my opinion with the right tools if you've done it before. |
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19th Jan 2015 8:05pm |
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| flying_low Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Masai Mara Posts: 19
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You're a star Blackwolf!
Thanks for that info..! Did you ever write up the how to? (just re-read the thread and saw you said might!) Let's hope all goes as planned- will update as soon as! Not the best thing to be faffing about with Landy too much the day before the mrs's 40th!! She's already upset about the clutch work! Can't live with them ...cant leave them outside after dark eh?! 
Many thanks! 2011 110 Tdci 1982 Range Rover V8 Classic (Gone) |
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19th Jan 2015 8:40pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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Sorry, I never got round to writing it up.
As I recall you need to: 1. Disconnect front end of rear propshaft and tie it up out of the way. 2. Disconnect rear of front propshaft. 3. Release handbrake cable from handbrake lever in cab, and pull cable out of the hole in the seatbox under the vehicle. 4. Remove HB drum. 5. Unbolt HB backplate from tbox and remove complete with shoes, cable, etc . 6. Drain oil from tbox. 7. Disconnect electrical connections, breather pipe, and hi/lo and difflock linkages from tbox. 8. Release all cable clips holding cable runs to tbox. 9. Support the tbox on a suitable transmission jack or trolley jack (there's a special angled plate from LR that bolts on the bottom to provide a flat surface, though I used a big wooden wedge). 10.Unbolt the tbox from the gearbox extension casing (note some of the bolts go into the tbox oil space hence the need to drain the box). 11. Slide the tbox backwards off the extension shaft and when clear lower it and move it out of the way. 12. Unbolt the extension housing from the back of the gearbox. 13. Cut the cable tie on the seal retainer, remove retainer and seal, pull out the male part of the splined coupling. 14. Hold the female part to prevent rotation, remove retaining setscrew, remove female part from gearbox. Assembly is the reverse of the above, noting: A. The female part of the joint is a very tight fit on the gearbox o/p shaft and may need heating to 100C before fitting. B. Torque the retaining nut and use threadlocker. C. Grease the splines generously with a molybdenum disulphide grease (eg CV joint grease) during assembly. D. Use a new seal on the joint. The rest is straightforward. Take care when refitting the tbox not to damage the input seal. It's actually much easier to do than describe. |
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19th Jan 2015 10:00pm |
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| flying_low Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Masai Mara Posts: 19
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Ah thanks so much!
One question; no mention of the exhaust segment having to come out to remove t box? I'm assuming it does need to come out? 2011 110 Tdci 1982 Range Rover V8 Classic (Gone) |
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19th Jan 2015 10:28pm |
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| flying_low Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Masai Mara Posts: 19
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Right..
Got the t box out and intermediate shaft just came off in my hand! It had completely reeased from the adapter 'cup' which is bolted to the main Gbox output shaft! Lots of red dust in the extension casing! Not impressed by the whole setup .. will be talking to Landrover dealer Kenya shortly. Of course i'm out f warranty by 9 months!  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Many thanks to blackwolf! will update as soon as i'm done! 2011 110 Tdci 1982 Range Rover V8 Classic (Gone) |
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20th Jan 2015 12:56pm |
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| ashtrans Site Sponsor Member Since: 08 Nov 2008 Location: Harpenden Posts: 257
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Hi all,
This stripped spline problem has been around for quite a while and we now have a solution to stop the spline wear. It all centres around keeping the spline wet with oil, I believe this is better than grease as on this type of fit the grease just solidifies. We have taken 2 stock new genuine parts, the short female coupling and the longer male coupling, Short female, spark erode 2 small slits on the gearbox side end face, spark out 2 teeth on the front female spline, spark out 2 more slits on the inside, this now allows the oil to 'leak' down the front spline and out to make the rear spline that wears wet. Turn a thread on the outside and turn 2 O ring grooves Click image to enlarge Now take the male shaft and grind the transfer case input seal face diameter further up towards the gearbox We then make a new part to contain the oil in the large spline, this has a new transfer case oil seal to seal on the new ground diameter and is threaded to tighten onto the front female coupling and seals on the 2 O rings, Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Will try to get it on the website tomorrow Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Dave |
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20th Jan 2015 8:32pm |
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| ian series 1 Member Since: 17 Nov 2014 Location: south Posts: 3127 
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Looks like a great solution, what sort of price are you looking at for this?
Standard parts from dealer was around £145 I had heard you were "in development"!! 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"
Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered. |
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20th Jan 2015 8:52pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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No need to disturb the exhaust if you're only removing the tbox, but you'll have found that out by now. |
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20th Jan 2015 11:08pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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A very neat and imaginative solution. You're effectively extending the gearbox oil space into the splined joint. I really like that! |
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20th Jan 2015 11:13pm |
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| flying_low Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Masai Mara Posts: 19
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Hiya! Tht does sound like a very good fix! Please let us know if this solution is currently available from you and how much? I am at most 24 hours away from ordering replacement LR parts (so that I can do this replacement again in another 30k kms!!) so would like to know if you can supply your solution now? Pls PM me or let me know on here? Thanks very much! 2011 110 Tdci
1982 Range Rover V8 Classic (Gone) |
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21st Jan 2015 7:29am |
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