 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Lost all drive... |
 
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| natyeo Member Since: 27 Jan 2013 Location: Bentham Posts: 136   
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2012 july 90 csw , did it at 17205, I drive my motor carefully now done 38,000 , and you got to be just right letting clutch up, I have had Land Rovers as my mine car since passing my test in 1985 and still have a perkins powered 4.203 S3 88 and know how to look after a drive line.
My puma is used as a company car some green laning and odd heavy trailer use. 2014 2.2 90 hard top , Warm M8000 , Scorpain winch bumper, Ashcroft rear atb 2012 2.2 tdci 110 Utility 1993 110 CSW Warn M8000 , Scorpain winch bumper , 2" lift , Roamerdive overdrive, on going 1971 Hybird 200tdi, 2 x truetracs,Extrem winch bumper, M8000, GKN overdrive & Coils 2" lift, Glynn Lewis cranked rear trail arms 1971 Series 3 88, Perkins 4203,M8000,SATs,O/D, |
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26th Jan 2014 10:31am |
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| lrmaniac Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lisboa Posts: 762  
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Mine is a 110 DC, April 2010, failed at 49.000km Regards
Joao '10 Land Rover Defender 110 CC '08 BMW F800GS '64 SIIA Forward Control '69 SIIA 109 ZA CKD _____________________________________________ You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you. |
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29th Jan 2014 12:49am |
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| Phantom Member Since: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Isle of Wight Posts: 136
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2010 90, failed at 20k miles
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31st Jan 2014 11:09pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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2010 years seem to appear a few times. Not had any issues with mine upto 36k touch wood (57)
Purchased at 12k so I don't know if anything before that occurred but I doubt it. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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1st Feb 2014 1:15am |
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| Desertdweller Member Since: 26 Sep 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 22  
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Hi guys. 2010MY 90SW same issue. As i'm in the Middle East, need to get the adaptor shaft shipped to my mechanic here...does anyone know the part number please? Love the vehicle, no heavy towing, just some off-roading in the dunes and a daily driver...can't live without it. Appreciate any help!
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10th Feb 2014 4:48pm |
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| lrmaniac Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lisboa Posts: 762
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You have a topic, that I can't find right now
 that has some pics and part numbers available for this part...
Can't seem to find the right words for search! Regards Joao '10 Land Rover Defender 110 CC '08 BMW F800GS '64 SIIA Forward Control '69 SIIA 109 ZA CKD _____________________________________________ You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you. |
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10th Feb 2014 5:58pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353 
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The essential parts are the "Flange - Drive" LR030054 and the "Shaft - Front" TUD500020. These together cost about £100 plus VAT. I strongly recommend also getting the following, since they are cheap and you don't want to get the tbox out and then find you need them.
Gearbox output oil seal "Seal - Oil" LR0058800 Bolt for flange "Bolt - Special" LR006096 Seal and clip for splined joint "Seal - Oil" TZB500140 and "Clip - Retaining" TYC500160. These supplementary parts cost about £20 plus VAT. |
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10th Feb 2014 6:07pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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By the way, my driveline failure turned out to be a disintegrated halfshaft in the front axle, not an adaptor shaft failure. When it happened, I did engage the CDL (at least I thought I did) and it appeared to make no difference. The inevitable conclusion is that in the moment of stress, transmission-less in a busy junction with vehicles hurtling at me, I didn't notice that it hadn't engaged properly. Embarrassing, but at least I now have the parts for the adaptor shaft if I need them and a fully overhauled front axle with all new Ashcroft HD components.
It is interesting to see the preponderance of 2010 MY vehicles and it was to try to see if there's a trend I asked for data. Please keep the posts coming. |
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10th Feb 2014 6:18pm |
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| Desertdweller Member Since: 26 Sep 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 22
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Cheers very much for the feedback, will see what my Indy mechanic says and get back to you..
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11th Feb 2014 6:10am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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A further thought - you may want also to check the state of your handbrake lubrication system - the transfer box rear output flange oil seal often leaks tbox oil into the handbrake. If so, you might want to consider replacing the seal and possibly flange (and HB shoes) at the same time.
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11th Feb 2014 9:21am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092 
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Raising this thread from the past....
I helped a mate of mine yesterday stripping out a transfer box on a 2011 90, just out of warranty. Gearbox went "bang" yesterday with no drive... and this intermediate shaft had stripped its splines. What an utter crappy stupid ill thought design....  A nice pile of red dust inside, which used to be the splines.
On inspection on the two pieces, it looks as if the outer shaft hadn't been fully inserted into the cup bit that bolts to the gearbox; the snap ring had been making a mark on the "counter sunk" section of the cup, and the spline wear was only 2/3~3/4 of the way down, the very bottom of the splines hadn't been in contact at all. Assembled by idiots. Did anyone come up with a redesigned piece? or did the grease nipple mod come to fruition? |
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5th Nov 2014 7:58am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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AS far as I am aware there is no redesigned part, and I have never managed to get my hands on any official details of the grease nipple mod.
At the moment I think the best strategy is (a) make sure that it is assembled properly (not like the one you describe), (b) lubricate copiously on assembly with a grease with as high a content of molybdenum disulphide as you can get (in practice this means CV joint grease, though Honda produce a grease for motorcycle drivelines with a much higher moly content if you can get it), and (c) inspect the joint every 50k miles, ie each time you have to take the gearbox out to replace the clutch. When I changed my clutch a couple of months ago, I was stunned to find the splines on mine were indistinguishable from the new parts I had lined up to fit on the assumption that they would be worn out, and that on a 2007 vehicle with 150k miles on the clock. There was no perceptible wear at all! There was also nothing recognisable as lubricant. It is very odd that on the one hand you can have a case such as mine, and on the other you can have these fail in under 10k from new. There has to be some underlying issue, wherether it is a material spec problem, and change of parts supplier, or an alignment (machining) problem with the gearbox extension or transfer box, I don't know. From a totally unscientific analysis of a small sample of failures via this forum, it does seem that 2010 and 2011 vehicles are significantly more likely to fail in this way than earlier or later ones. |
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5th Nov 2014 9:58am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092
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Thanks.
this 90 has about 40k miles on it. does some horsebox towing, but nothing wild. shoddy quality, it really is. |
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5th Nov 2014 10:30am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17353
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I am convinced that there is an underlying problem, but I don't think that there is enough information in the public domain to identify a single underlying cause. Personally I think that there are build issues (variable lubrication), variability issues with the quality of the component manufacture, possibly alignment issues, and possibly issues with the storage of parts prior to assembly (if the splines were pre-rusted, they will fail prematurely).
Overall I totally agree that it is shoddy quality control, since any or even all of the foregoing could and should be managed through robust QA and QC procedures. Disappointing to say the least. The only good thing is that the parts are not (yet) desperately expensive. I have however stockpiled a couple of sets since LR has a habit of massive price hikes when you least expect it (for example the Puma heater control panel which if I recall coerrectly went from about £60 to something like £400 overnight). |
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5th Nov 2014 4:00pm |
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