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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hello Defender2 world,
Quick question re my clutch. I think it is time for a new clutch, at least that is based on my self- diagnosis and with help from someone who works on 'normal' cars: bit of movement, bit of a clunk, engagement starting to get a little stickier, need to slip the clutch to prevent 'hopping' etc etc. This is going to be properly looked at by an independent mechanic for free, but I still want to go in there with some knowledge up front. I assume I need to replace the clutch pressure plate and friction plate, but should I replace anything else at the same time, such as the release fork, either cylinder etc? Also I drive a 11/2011 110SW which I think had the an inherent problem with a 'weak' clutch, hence the clunk. As such should I look for a LR OE part or are there any recommended upgrades (Sachs)? Hoping to do the work with a friend (has garage and heavy lift) to learn the ropes. Worth the effort? What is an all-in price in the UK (I return in Dec for a week), I have been quoted approx 1000€ (£800). Cheers as ever ![]() I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Munch.
Any thoughts on the brand? As mentioned I am returning to the UK in 6 weeks and parts are far cheaper.... Ta Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17614 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I haven't found anything better than OEM for the clutch yet (though if anyone has, I'd like to hear about it). OEM is AP Driveline, and AP branded will be somewhat cheaper than Gen Parts branded.
Replace the driven plate and the cover. Also worth replacing the slave cylinder (as Munch has said) and I suggest replacing the flow restrictor on the hydraulic line too, since it is cheap(ish) and if it misbehaves is will reduce drivability. Also, when doing this job it is definitely worth inspecting the condition of the gearbox output shaft adaptor shaft splines and lubricating them if good, or replacing the parts (about £100) and lubricating on assembly if worn. It is very little extra work to do this when changing the clutch and far less hassle than losing all drive at an inconvenient moment. |
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5880 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks Blackwolf, informed reply as ever (assuming you are not the chair of the Clutch Manufacturers Marketing Board :
![]() I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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