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CARMARK2014



Member Since: 28 Dec 2013
Location: SHEFFIELD
Posts: 57

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Ha HA thanks all. Defender 110
Post #364954 16th Oct 2014 1:36pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
can anyone confirm how the CHT works in terms of resistance increase or decrease with temp (assuming this is how the signal is relayed to the ECM). normal physics suggests the resistance will increase with temp but I've yet to find anything 'normal' with my defender. ? Very Happy

incl it's driver. Rolling with laughter
Post #499420 2nd Feb 2016 6:39am
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Alexke



Member Since: 03 Jan 2011
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 113

Belgium 
My 2.4 does smoke aswell , a bit blueisch. If I cylcle my glowplugs 2 times its a lot less. Discovery 4 SDV6 Landmark
F31 320dA Msport xDrive
LR Defender 90SW TD4 Stornoway grey
320d E46
E70 X5 3.0d Sold!
FFRR TD6 - Sold
Post #499429 2nd Feb 2016 7:54am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17363

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think that the buish/whiteish smoke on start up in cold weather is a normal 2.4 Puma Defender characteristic, certainly all those I have been involved with have done it.

I didn't think that cycling the heater plugs twice actually cycled the heater plugs twice though, since I think they're under ECU control and aren't as straightforward as heater plug used to be. I may be wrong though.
Post #499447 2nd Feb 2016 8:58am
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Alexke



Member Since: 03 Jan 2011
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 113

Belgium 
It does cycle the times you reapply the ignition. check the voltage drop when doing so.
The ecu does however continue to pulse the glowplugs when the engine is started to aid heating and emissions. Discovery 4 SDV6 Landmark
F31 320dA Msport xDrive
LR Defender 90SW TD4 Stornoway grey
320d E46
E70 X5 3.0d Sold!
FFRR TD6 - Sold
Post #499631 2nd Feb 2016 6:54pm
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dfilipu



Member Since: 06 Feb 2016
Location: Savoie
Posts: 5

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Alpine White
Hello all,
I have got a puma 2.2 and he make a big smoke when cold morning. I live in ski resort and when we got -20°C, smoke can stay 2-5 min and I can't go because engine don't have enough power. I think white smoke when weather is cold is normal.
Post #501305 6th Feb 2016 3:06pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361

[quote="Caterham"]can anyone confirm how the CHT works in terms of resistance increase or decrease with temp (assuming this is how the signal is relayed to the ECM). normal physics suggests the resistance will increase with temp but I've yet to find anything 'normal' with my defender. ? :D

incl it's driver. :rolllaugh:[/quote]

[img]https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10869/Unbenannt.JPG[/img]
Post #502144 8th Feb 2016 2:21pm
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Snowy90



Member Since: 23 Feb 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 482

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Fuji White
Mine did this white smoke shade of blue at times.

Diesel fuel additive like forte helped a little, but then had the EGR valve removed and cleaned and then it stopped.
Post #502224 8th Feb 2016 5:42pm
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familymad



Member Since: 13 Dec 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 3481

 2016 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black
Are you using winter fuel? 1951 80" S1 2.0
1995 110 300TDI
1995 90 300TDI
Post #502250 8th Feb 2016 6:53pm
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Treebeard



Member Since: 27 Jun 2012
Location: Forest of Dean
Posts: 40

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Chawton White
Like snowy says, our white smoke on start up went away when a new egr was fitted. Cane back a year or two later though..
Post #502825 9th Feb 2016 8:07pm
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dfilipu



Member Since: 06 Feb 2016
Location: Savoie
Posts: 5

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Alpine White
In france, we have got 3 kind of fuel. One for summer and one for winter. But in some fuel station ( ski resort for example ) we can find "Grand froid" fuel. He can run below -21°C. Yes I always use this kind of fuel. But I must install a heater pad on fuel filter in winter.

If I understand you say that my EGR valve must be cleaned? or removed?
Post #502992 10th Feb 2016 7:29am
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
You can clean it, or blank it off and get it electronically disabled.
Post #503073 10th Feb 2016 12:54pm
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Jukathy



Member Since: 25 Jan 2015
Location: Berlin
Posts: 170

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
In 2012 I've tested 5...7 Pumas. They have been 4...6 yrs old.

From my memory: 50% okay // 50% did smoke, only whiteish - it depended on mileage ...

I've been slightly confused and decided to buy a new car.
Post #504090 12th Feb 2016 9:02pm
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Alexke



Member Since: 03 Jan 2011
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 113

Belgium 
it also depends on the oil and how long its been sitting.

I must say , when I was driving in the Savoie (Les Saisies) my defender also emitted more white smoke and ran worse , also the exhaust stinks a lot.

I think its due to less oxygen and colder climate. After that week my defender Chuka chuka EGR sound became worse! .

if you live in the alps I recommend a Webasto or similar.

My dad just bought a Landmark Discovery 4 and he ordered it with the fuel burning heater just for this reason.
(less wear on the engine) Discovery 4 SDV6 Landmark
F31 320dA Msport xDrive
LR Defender 90SW TD4 Stornoway grey
320d E46
E70 X5 3.0d Sold!
FFRR TD6 - Sold
Post #504824 15th Feb 2016 9:00am
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B4Lamb



Member Since: 21 Mar 2015
Location: Abergavenny, Wales
Posts: 233

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green
CARMARK2014 wrote:
This morning its very damp outside came out glow plug light on waited for it to go out engine turns but wont start, tried again glow plug light out, engine turns again wont start. I waited about 30 seconds tried again and it started, it as done the twice both on damp morning start ups, the rest of the day its started ok. Could it be a glow plug or do they all need changing my defender is 2008 with 30k on the clock..


Its so easy to see if your glo plugs are in good condition. You just need a multimeter that can measure resistance of less than 1 Ohm. Measure between the nut of the glo plug and the connection point after pulling off the lead. The resistance should be around 0.7 Ohms but 1 or less should be fine. Don't forget to measure the resistance of the meter leads by touching the probes together and deduct any lead resistance from your measured glo plug value. If the glo plugs are measuring much higher than 1 Ohm they either will not glo on cranking at all or will take an age to heat to a glo by which time the glo plug voltage has been reduced by the ECU so will never get to a glow condition. If in doubt unscrew the glow plug in question from the cylinder head and connect with thick copper leads across a 12V car battery or a 12V source that can deliver 20 to 24 Amps or more. The plug tip should visibly glow a few seconds after connection. Be careful, glowing is obviously very hot but if they don't glow don't assume the end is cold it could still be hot enough to burn you. "You are never to old to learn something new"
Post #665180 17th Nov 2017 7:59pm
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