 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2008 Defender 110 drive line clonking |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20447  
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Sounds possibly like the A frame as you mention.
At what point exactly does it do it? |
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6th Sep 2014 11:25pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5729 
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Have you driven others? They all do it to a degree, you need to workout how serious yours is and decide if you want to adapt your driving style and live with it or pay out more money. .
Andy |
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7th Sep 2014 5:36am |
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| CARMARK2014 Member Since: 28 Dec 2013 Location: SHEFFIELD Posts: 57 
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Thank guys, it does it when changing up the gear box 1st, 2rd, 3rd gears mainly I have adapted my drive some what and this does help but I can not believe this is normal to get this clonking,, my mechanic say we could try this or that but it is costing me money every time he tries something new its a nice little earner for him but leaves me skint. Changeing the a frame bushes is the only thing we haven't done but the mechanic say they look ok and its a big job, although another garage told me its about a 2 hor job and the poly bushes are about £80, more lay out I don't know what to do.
 l Defender 110Last edited by CARMARK2014 on 28th Oct 2014 8:56pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Sep 2014 9:43am |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790  
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Have you checked the drive flange on the diff? The clonk on my previous 110 was cured with some Loctite on the splines, my current car is about to go in for the same work as it has started clonking from 5000 miles
 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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7th Sep 2014 10:00am |
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| CARMARK2014 Member Since: 28 Dec 2013 Location: SHEFFIELD Posts: 57
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Loctite is that glue, I will tell the mechanic to check this. Cheers. Defender 110
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7th Sep 2014 7:13pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Yes, there are different types of Loctite but a basic explanation is that it is a kind of glue. I know you said the halfshafts have been changed but have they also checked for wear in the drive member flanges too?
Trying to diagnose potential causes of clonks and slack on a forum without actually seeing the thing is generally similar to the old kids game of trying to pin the tail on the donkey while blindfolded, there are a fair number of potential joints and splines that can wear a little individually but the sum of which can add up to a fair amount of play. You say it has a new transfer box, did it clonk the same with the old one? What is the mileage on the vehicle and what kind of use has it had in the past? Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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7th Sep 2014 7:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20447
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Check the bolts on both props are to the correct torque also.
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7th Sep 2014 7:28pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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As MOG says, check the drive flanges. They are cheap and when I changed mine it made a massive difference.
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7th Sep 2014 8:00pm |
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| CARMARK2014 Member Since: 28 Dec 2013 Location: SHEFFIELD Posts: 57
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Before the recon transfer box was fitted it was noisier my mechanic was surprised it didn't cure the clonk, the 110 as only done 40k its 2010 and as been used as a road car from new, its not done a hard days work in its life. Its mint condition, its just this clonk, we have replaced that many things its when do you call it a day. I know they changed one of the rear half shafts the other was ok, they also replaced the half shaft end caps which all made things better but not cured. Defender 110
Last edited by CARMARK2014 on 28th Oct 2014 8:57pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Sep 2014 9:16pm |
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| AlanH Member Since: 15 Mar 2010 Location: WA Posts: 242 
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I think most Pumas suffer from this to different degrees. Mine is much better since the stealer had it for 2 weeks stuffing around though.
I personally think this is the worst model Deafener and I've had a new Td5 and a 300Tdi so can compare the 3 from personal experience. Horrid rattly engine but with plenty of power and sloppy drive train. It's got just 3 oil changes to go then it's out of here. Why 3 oil changes you may ask? Because I've just bought 20 litres of bloody expensive oil recommended by Ford, Castrol Edge Prof C1 and I'm determined to use it, that's why. The Cook will kill me but I don't care......... AlanH. |
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8th Sep 2014 8:02am |
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| CARMARK2014 Member Since: 28 Dec 2013 Location: SHEFFIELD Posts: 57
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Mines back to the landy specialist for the clonk one more time then that's it I will drive it with radio 2 on full blast, and hope I carnt here it. Defender 110
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8th Sep 2014 6:07pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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As AlanH says, I think it is correct that most (all?) Pumas suffer from this to a certain degree. If I do not take care of changing up gears very carefully, especially 1 to 2 until 3 to 4, I also have some clunk. Nothing dramatic, but it is there. I actually always have had that, from new. Truck after 6 years has now over 70k km, and earlier this year I had complained a few times to my dealer. They went for a drive with me and admitted to hear it. They checked the entire transmission line, propshafts no play, but they said there was some play in the half shafts. Those were replaced under the extended warranty, but frankly, it does not really make a difference. As I am a very careful driver and as everything we can check seems ok, I guess it is a normal sound coming from the sum of the numerous transmission parts on a Defender.
My solution is to change up gears quite slowly, from 1 to zero, and from zero to 2, and only after getting into 2 hitting the gas again. Same for the next gears. If I do that, all is very quiet. I have no problem at all driving the SVX like this. I think the saying "they all do that, Sir" is probably well in place here. One more thing, when everything is completely cooled down, like after an overnight rest, the first kms it does not do this, it is much more happening after the truck warms up. After all was thoroughly checked, and after the half shafts were replaced, guess will live with it and just treat the entire transmission chain with respect. Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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8th Sep 2014 6:30pm |
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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3481  
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My inde agrees with this. I had mine in for just that. 1951 80" S1 2.0 1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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8th Sep 2014 9:02pm |
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| Braydog Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: Melbourne Posts: 27 
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I fixed the horrid clunking during gear changes with a new, heavier duty front diff. Was driving around with a busted cross shaft in the diff for ages and thinking the noise and excess play in the prop shaft was an inherent Land Rover issue.
Drives like new now. Sometimes It is better to ask for forgiveness, than to ask for permission. |
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9th Sep 2014 12:13pm |
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