 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > To chassis paint or not to chassis paint??? |
 
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Very difficult if nigh on impossible to repaint a chassis and make a proper thorough job of it while it is still on the vehicle. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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30th Jul 2014 2:16pm |
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| pob1968 Member Since: 20 Apr 2014 Location: uk Posts: 239 |
As said you can't get to all of it but I would still paint what you can get to - it's not going to harm. I would paint it and then give a good spray of Dinitrol all over and inside all the sections. You could do with a compressor to apply the Dinitrol and maybe buy 10 or 12 cans of Dinitrol chassis wax and 4 or 5 of the cavity wax for inside the chassis. 110 Hardtop
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30th Jul 2014 2:20pm |
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| Kevzeboy Member Since: 19 Jul 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 82 
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I would pressure wash and wax with your solution of choice. The whole lot wants done as it will be for the rest of her life.
My 61 plate has been treated by Rust master! It washes off so will be doing it myself! The cross member is starting to weather at the shiny side. I will be rubbing down and giving it a spray with the 2 pk chassis paint I did my series 2 galvy chassis in. Hard as iron. Even a galvy chassis will go to  if not looked after!
Kevin |
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30th Jul 2014 3:18pm |
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| LandyBen82 Member Since: 22 Jul 2014 Location: Shropshire Posts: 44 
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It is a poor show that they only dust them with paint! just had a look under mine again and there is surface rust over the diff pans, some of the welds on the chassis and cross member.
Might be a couple of days work with the sandpaper, wire brush and rust killer. Not impressive for a car that has only seen two winters and 11,000 miles. Thanks - Ben |
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30th Jul 2014 4:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20121
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You don't have to have / buy a compressor to apply Dinitrol, aerosol is just the same in my view. Aerosol may cost slightly more? But if it does not enough to warrant going out to buy a compressor that many would have no other purpose for. Aerosol cans on mine was very good results.  |
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30th Jul 2014 6:50pm |
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| Kevzeboy Member Since: 19 Jul 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 82
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If you are going to do it your self, get a compressor! It makes life easier!
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30th Jul 2014 7:27pm |
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| adamatdraycott Member Since: 11 Nov 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 299 
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Any reason you didn't have it treated new?
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30th Jul 2014 8:52pm |
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| LandyBen82 Member Since: 22 Jul 2014 Location: Shropshire Posts: 44
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It was one of those things on the list to do, but life and work got in the way. I also didn't think they started to go off as fast as a banana!!
I will have a go at sorting thing the weekend. Rust killer in hand!! Thanks - Ben |
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30th Jul 2014 9:26pm |
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| Interlet Member Since: 10 Oct 2011 Location: Norwich Posts: 461 
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Thought they had a 5 year corrosion warranty? I've never had a remotely new one, but I read on here a lot about these things...even if you are 2nd owner, take it back to a main dealer and say look, regardless of who bought it new, its certainly not 5 years old, therefore they need to sort the corrosion out. 1998 110 300Tdi White Hard Top
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30th Jul 2014 9:35pm |
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| adamatdraycott Member Since: 11 Nov 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 299
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If you fancy getting someone to do it for you I got CSK to do mine. Very happy with the job he did and no mess on my drive!
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30th Jul 2014 9:38pm |
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| LandyBen82 Member Since: 22 Jul 2014 Location: Shropshire Posts: 44
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Is there another company more local to me, I am in Shropshire. I would like to get the job done properly the first time and top up myself thereafter.
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31st Jul 2014 9:01am |
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| milesr3 Member Since: 12 Feb 2013 Location: Suffolk Posts: 873 
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Bilt-Hamber Dynax UB would be another good choice along with Dinitrol. One advantage of Dynax is that the cans are huge, highly pressurized and work at any angle so it's an easy DIY job.
The S-50 and UC I applied earlier in the year is refusing to be washed off too: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic27877.html?highlight=dynax |
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31st Jul 2014 10:54am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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IIRC warranty cover is for perforating corrosion. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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31st Jul 2014 2:00pm |
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| tookaphotoof Member Since: 18 Mar 2013 Location: dordrecht Posts: 1279  
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Ik keep finding parts of the chassis where the paint is flaking off in large pieces. Thumbs up for my dealer so far correcting it, but I have now arrived to a point to actually feel a bit uncomfortable to ask them to correct yet another part.
I have a sticker on my chassis with 'GKN Auto structures' on it. Really considering to write them and ask if they think it's normal a chassis looses its paint and rusts from day one. What a worthless company that must be... |
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31st Jul 2014 4:02pm |
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