 | Home > Td5 > Minor bulk head corrosion |
 
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637   
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Hi folks,
So I have been investigating my new landy (removing trim etc) and have found a couple of areas of rust, that while are not great don't look to be terminal. What would be my best option here guys? This is the near side front door. It looks like water has tracked down the door seal and corroded at the inside vent location and the front door stay. It does not too bad, just wondering if I could paint it or waxoyl it and arrest the rust as it stands or at least slow it for a year or two. The door vents itself looks great and is working just fine 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Any advice welcome. Cheers Andy |
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10th Jul 2014 7:56pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248  
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Hi Andy
I had similar problems on my TD5's bulkhead. I took a Dremel with a wire brush to mine and it cleaned up OK. I then rust treated, primed and painted the areas and they are fine after a year or so. If you can get the area back to bare metal you will be able to see how bad the damage is. Has the area at the top of the vent actually rotted away - I caught mine before they got that bad ? Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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10th Jul 2014 8:08pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi bob,
Hi, only a small section of the inside portion of the vent is rotted away. It looks worse than it is, I think I can do as you suggest, Drexel away the rust and give it a coat of hammerite??? What about the alloy windscreen surround, should I just sand that back as well and coat with hammerite? Cheers Andy |
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10th Jul 2014 9:04pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248
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Hi Andy
Get the bulkhead rust back to as much bare metal as you can. Then a good rust treatment (Fertan is a good one) and finally paint, I would use red oxide before the Hammerite to give more protection. The windscreen surround is a casting so is tricky. It really needs to be soda blasted to get rid of the corrosion that has eaten into the casting. Probably best to get rid of as much corrosion as possible and then treat with an etch primer and paint. I must admit that I am not a fan of Hammerite now, used to be very good but the quality seems to have gone downhill recently. For general spraying I tend to use Plasticote as I can get a good finish provided I have done the prep work correctly. I am sure others will be along to offer their advice 
Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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10th Jul 2014 9:25pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi,
So if I were to prep the metal as you say, can I paint some colour matched spray paint over the red oxide paint? For painting onto alloy, I thought you had to etch the metal first? It's the only job I don't like and that's bodywork work!!! Thanks for the help Cheers Andy |
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10th Jul 2014 9:46pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248
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Hi Andy
You can use colour matched paint over the red oxide. I would red oxide, normal primer and then paint. The etch primer I mentioned in my previous post will etch into the alloy so that is the only specialised treatment it will need. Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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11th Jul 2014 7:20am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi all,
Have removed half the dash, getting access to the two top corners of the bulkhead. Also removed the lower sound insulation and the carpets. See pictures below, I have sprayed certain on the rust and will leave for the next day or so. Will paint it next week. Wrt to the rust, how bad is it? I have a hole below the clutch pedal and one above the pedals close to the fuse /relay mounting location. What's the best move from here? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Cheers Andy |
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22nd Jul 2014 9:55am |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Hi all,
Ok, spent a good hour this afternoon cleaning up the worst area and also Fertan'd it!! Click image to enlarge I think I'm going to red oxide it, then paint over it, then waxoyl it (inside the hole). I think it's into a gap between panels! The hole as shown here needs to be cut out and a patch welded in I think, looks straight forward enough. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Seems like a blanking plug was missed out at the factory.............as the sound deadening material looks like it has an imprint on it!! Any advice much appreciated
Cheers Andy |
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22nd Jul 2014 4:49pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 616  
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Don't waste your time - remove to dashboard and you will se how large the holes are. Without removing it, you can see just a small part. And please don't ask me, how I know it. My Def 130 had only small rusted places, but beneath the dashboard were large holes rusted through. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo
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22nd Jul 2014 5:10pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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We'll this defender is a keeper, so I'm going to prime paint what I can see and keep her going.
As long as the vehicle is MOT friendly for the next few years...... In 3 or 4 years I put a galvanised chassis in and go to town on her, bring her back to factory finish
Cheers Andy |
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22nd Jul 2014 7:10pm |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907 
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There are a number of potentially useful products for you here:
http://www.bilthamber.com/ At least it's only the metal parts of Land Rovers that rust.... |
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22nd Jul 2014 7:50pm |
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| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677  
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If its a keeper and you have the opportunity then take the dash off and expose the bulkhead completely. I promise you it will have to come off in the end! |
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22nd Jul 2014 8:08pm |
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| borderterrier Member Since: 09 Dec 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1677
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This was my series 3 I rebuilt and the dash covered a multitude of sins.
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22nd Jul 2014 8:19pm |
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| ROBBONTHEROCK Member Since: 23 Jun 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 637
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Cracking job bud!
Yes, she is a keeper, but I'm not going to do the full on restoration job for a couple of years. I just want to patch up and nurse it for a couple of years and then go to town on her. Might start buying replacement parts from next year onwards start gathering the bits.
Cheers for the advice lads (I love this site )
Cheers Andy |
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22nd Jul 2014 9:46pm |
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