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lambert.the.farmer



Member Since: 11 Apr 2012
Location: harrogate
Posts: 2006

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Rutland Red
buying information
We might be looking at changing the tdi for a 2.4 being as they are starting to look affordable. Other than the normal things like rot and service history what do I need to look at, what are common faults and fixes? Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
Post #346885 22nd Jul 2014 7:11am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7908

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
clutches rattling on early ones
Diffs - pre 11MY didnt have the 4 pin diffs alround. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #346893 22nd Jul 2014 8:01am
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psimpson7



Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: Gold Coast, Qld.
Posts: 221

Australia 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Loire Blue
90's still have 2 pin diffs if you are looking at 90's 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto.
2003 90 td5 soft top.
2014 90 XS SW 2.2.
Post #346902 22nd Jul 2014 8:24am
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lambert.the.farmer



Member Since: 11 Apr 2012
Location: harrogate
Posts: 2006

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Rutland Red
Yeah it would be a 90 if owt. Will have a read on clutches. Cheers. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
Post #346903 22nd Jul 2014 8:27am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17240

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
As above, check for the "Puma clutch death rattle" - switch the engine off with the gearbox in neutral and the clutch engaged, and listen for an unmistakable rattle from the the transmission area. Repeat with clutch disengaged. Assess the difference. All Puma clutches eventually do this, expect 50k to 80k miles from the latest type before they need replacing due to spring rattle.

Check for slop in the driveline, Pumas are very prone to this, which usually results in a very snatchy clutch and a fairly horrible gear change, along with various clunks from the driveline. If the gearchange and clutch are nice to use and the car drives easily, you have found a good one. A very small amount of wear can have a big effect on drivability. Drive flanges and halfshafts seem to wear quickly on Pumas, possibly because of the high torque of the engine.

Check under the bonnet for oil spray on the underside of the bonnet and the front nearside area of the engine, indicative of an early vacuum pump with a leaky seal. Not difficult to fix, not expensive either.

Early sumps (up to about 2010 IIRC) could be struck by the front propshaft under conditions of extreme axle articulation, so a modified sump was fitted. It might be worth checking for witness marks in case you have the early type (it's not a problem for pure road use, but in extreme conditions the propshaft can hole the sump leading to loss of oil and the destruction of the engine).

Again some early 2.4s (especially 2007 MY) had a potential problme with the piston cooling jets which would under conditions of exceptionally high oil pressure, shut off and starve the bores of lubricant, leading to the eventual destruction of the engine. Landrover claims that all affected engines have now been dealt with, but there is a suspicion that they actually mean that all potential failures are now out of warranty. There have been some members on this forum who have suffered this problem well out of warranty and LR has contributed tot he cost of a new engine, but in order for this to happen a full documented service history is essential. For those of us who have 2007 2.4s this is probably the biggest worry of ownership! Landrover has never said whether this was caused by defective PCJs and therefore was only likely to occur on certain vehicles, or whether all vehicles built at that time are at risk. The TSB does list the engine number after which the problem won't occur, and the TSB is available in several threads on this forum.

As above, the pre MY11 110s and 130s have a 2-gear diff in the front which is susceptible to accelerated wear (especially if oil leaks from the axle are ignored) and is really not up to the job. Later models have a 4-gear diff which is of adequate strength. Note that 90s have 2-gear Rover diffs F&R, longer wheelbases have a Rover diff F and a P38 diff R.

One of the common faults with the GFT MT82 6-speed box installation is the complete failure of the splined coupling of the output adaptor shaft on the back of the main box. This, if it fails, will lead to a complete loss of drive, but really there is no way to tell what state it is in without removing the transfer box. It isn't particularly expensive to replace but is a hassle since the t-box has to come out, and more of a hassle because you are stranded when it fails. The problem seems to be inadequate lubrication on assembly possibly coupled with a slight misalignment between the gearbox and transfer box due to machining tolerances (this latter is in informed speculation on my part though).

Aside from that they are pretty much the same as any other Defender, with the same variable build quality, leaks, lack of security, etc. You will find that the TDCi is a revelation to drive, by far the nicest Defender yet in bog standard form, with a very torquey engine and much improved interior, especially the seats. The engine does really demand a different driving technique to earlier models due to the huge torque at low revs, more like an HGV than a car.

Let us know how you get on!
Post #346911 22nd Jul 2014 9:10am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Excellent advice BW, very worthy of being made sticky and used for reference purposes. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #346928 22nd Jul 2014 10:12am
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lambert.the.farmer



Member Since: 11 Apr 2012
Location: harrogate
Posts: 2006

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Rutland Red
I'll second that. Thanks. So in essence if it drives well and is good and smooth then it should be a winner. Excellent cheers. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
Post #346931 22nd Jul 2014 10:42am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Try as many as you can as like all Defenders they can very variable. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #346954 22nd Jul 2014 1:07pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5104

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Miserableolgit wrote:
Excellent advice BW, very worthy of being made sticky and used for reference purposes.


Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #346988 22nd Jul 2014 4:01pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7908

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
sorry ref diffs was thinking 110s Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #347139 23rd Jul 2014 7:27am
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