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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Rear half shaft flange bolts
All going so well. Drivers side tyres swapped front to back. Started the passenger side and removed the rear wheel to discover the rear half shaft flange bolts had come undone. On closer inspection, this was revealed.




and the bolts



Three of the 5 had sheared and by the looks of it the thread is worn away on the hub side.
The other two where hand tight (this might explain some of the clunks?.

So questions.
Does the outer hub seperate from the brake disc side? press fit or bolted together?

So by the looks of it, the shopping list is

Hub / flange bolts x 5
Gasket?
Flange hub thingy

Any other bits ?

Any tips on doing the job ?

i think I was lucky as tomorrow the Landy should have been heading to the lakes! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #344864 13th Jul 2014 12:15pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The brake disk is bolted to the back of the hub, so when the hub is off it is easy to remove.

The usual reason for these bolts to shear is because the blind hole they screw into becomes plugged with gasket compound and threadlock and they shear when tightened. It is often possible to drill them out, and if you use a left helix drill they'll often unscrew. Three sheared in one flange is unusual! Are the bolts you have the correct grade (10.9) or has someone used standard grade 8.8?

Another option is to drill out and helicoil the hole, essential if the thread is damaged.

If you fit a new hub bear in mind you may need to reshim the wheelbearings or convert to the earlier adjustable set-up.
Post #344866 13th Jul 2014 12:37pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
The old bolts are 10.9.

What year did the bearings go from adjustable to shimmed? and how do I know?
As mine is a 1999 I am hoping I am on the tdi type setup ? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #344869 13th Jul 2014 1:04pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5697

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Think yours are shimmed as they are fitted with the stake nut, not the twin nut setup.

Andy
Post #344870 13th Jul 2014 1:06pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
So...If I am shimmed, how do you setup the bearing??
Is it easier to replace with adjustable bearings? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #344871 13th Jul 2014 1:07pm
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Once you take the hub off could an engineering type company get them out for you??The shims can be a pita IF you have to replace them.As said you have shims as you've got the later stake nut,you need a 52 mm impact socket (about £15 of eblag),torqued to....er,can't remember,lol. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #344990 13th Jul 2014 7:52pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I've done bearings before but neve tber shimmed type. Can I not reuse the same shims or are they single use? I, e the shims crush. Do you get all the shims needed in the kit? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #344991 13th Jul 2014 7:57pm
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

i re-used my shims (cleaned and re-greased bearings tho,didn't replace),easiest thing in the world,re-fit torque once, job done Thumbs Up .You could get lucky wi new bearings and not need shims,nowt to lose by tryin,other than time.No you dont get all the shims,you get them singul in ones ,lol.I don't think they are cheap either. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.

Last edited by jimbob7 on 13th Jul 2014 8:20pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #345001 13th Jul 2014 8:17pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Cheers Jim. I take you still check for play by wiggling the wheel top and bottom etc ? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #345002 13th Jul 2014 8:20pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5697

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
The shims are reusable but are only one size. Often if you are just changing the bearings the same spacers work ok. But it's difficult to tell, unless trying a dry assembly to test, before a final greased assembly. The best and easiest way I found was to just by two nuts, and a lock washer, and just go back to the old setup. Thumbs Up

Andy
Post #345004 13th Jul 2014 8:22pm
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Correct,summut like 200 ftlb but check first.Dont follow instructions for Discos tho, coz they slightly different,they need doin up to summut silly like 350ft lb Shocked . Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #345005 13th Jul 2014 8:23pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
So using two lock nuts and a washer this does away with the shims?
According to the Haynes manual upto 99' have lock washers after 99' its shims and you need a DTI guage. Mine is a Jan 99 model. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #345016 13th Jul 2014 8:47pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5697

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Yes, you just leave the spacer out and set the bearing play with the first nut, then lock this in place with second nut and lock washer. Old school. Thumbs Up

Yours will be spacer as is single stake nut, not twin nut, with lock washer.

By swapping it also means regreasing is easier, and new nut is not required each time. Also I found that the stub axle was getting damaged with repeated removal of the stake nut, so prefer twin nut.

Andy
Post #345022 13th Jul 2014 9:03pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Twin nut (old arrangement) is superior in every respect!
Post #345023 13th Jul 2014 9:17pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I have most of the bits needed to do the job, inc a new hub. The only thing I am missing is a set of wheel bearings, but I have a set of new TDi wheel bearings which I planned on using for the front, so I will be using the bearings for the rear and doing away with the shim.
The only bits I am missing now are

52mm socket (apparently delivery attempted by APC but no card through the door depsite tracking info saying they have)
9/16th 12point 1/2" socket. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #346121 18th Jul 2014 6:32pm
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