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ronwong



Member Since: 28 Jun 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 120

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
running out of fuel
I cant find a 1-2-3 step from recovering from a out of fuel situation? Is it possible? I mean there is always a possibility, athough they manual says never let the puma run out of fuel? I don't want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere and start to google about it.

In my previous cars, some has a manual pump, some is auto priming... anybody can share, the exact thing to do when it really runs dry? I am running puma 2.2//
Post #344420 11th Jul 2014 8:26am
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Dave-H



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1507

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
There is no easy steps on a puma ...... Neutral

You'll need to remove and refill the fuel filter, then use an in-line hand pump to reprime the system ... And 'hopefully' it will restart without too much cranking .

Failing that, injector unions need cracking off while cranking to purge the lines of air .... Enjoy Rolling Eyes

Short answer is - DON'T RUN OUT!! Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant.
Post #344422 11th Jul 2014 8:45am
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ronwong



Member Since: 28 Jun 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 120

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
fuel filter? where is that?
where to pump the inline pump? what do you mean by injector unions needs cracking off? Sorry I am a beginer.
I dont want to be doing this in the middle of no where. So an inline pump would need to be a tool to bring in expedition?
Post #344425 11th Jul 2014 8:51am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Given the Puma 2.2 has a strategy to prevent you running out of fuel - reduced power mode - it would be difficult if not impossible to not know it was happening:

From the Handbook:

The vehicle is equipped with a system to prevent the fuel tank from emptying completely. When the fuel reaches a minimum level, the system will activate a reduced power mode (i.e. the engine will not run properly).

This will be followed by the engine stopping in approximately 1.6 km (1 mile). This feature prevents the fuel system from running dry, which could cause damage to the vehicle. If the gauge indicates low fuel or the
warning indicator illuminates, the fuel tank should be refuelled as soon as possible at the next filling station, with at least 4 litres (0.9 gallons) of fuel. If the system protection function has activated, the vehicle must firstly be refuelled, then restarted using the following procedure:
1. With the brake pedal depressed, turn and hold the engine start key and crank the engine for five seconds.
2. Release the key.
3. With the brake pedal still depressed, turn the key to crank the engine. The engine should start within approximately five seconds.

Note: If the engine does not start, pause for ten seconds before repeating the procedure from the beginning.
Do not crank the engine for longer than 30 seconds, or damage to the fuel pump may occur.

Not sure why it states depress the brake pedal - anyone know?

and from the Workshop Manual:

LOW FUEL INDICATION AND RUN DRY STRATEGY
The run-dry strategy is used to maintain the systems fuel prime at fuel run out. It ensures the minimum amount of fuel is always left in the swirl pot.

The instrument cluster activates the yellow low fuel warning light (next to the fuel gauge) with 17% of fuel remaining in the tank. The fuel gauge will indicate empty with 12% of fuel left in the tank. With 6 liters left in the tank the run-dry strategy will be invoked.

An engine mis-fire will be induced for approximately 1 mile after which the engine will be shut down. The engine can be re-started in mis-fire mode and will continue to run for a further mile until the engine shuts down again. This can be repeated until the fuel suction port in the tank is uncovered and causes engine fuel starvation and loss of prime.

Re-starts after run-dry shut down are not recommended.
Post #344429 11th Jul 2014 9:11am
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Mjibex



Member Since: 21 Mar 2013
Location: Reading
Posts: 283

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Loire Blue
To answer the OP:-

2.2 is no worry - it will self prime.
2.4 is more complicated - it won't self prime - self previous posters info.

mark.
Post #344575 11th Jul 2014 8:04pm
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FR-F1



Member Since: 10 Jul 2014
Location: Carnoules
Posts: 2

France 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
I'm not totaly sure that the ID4 2.2 will self prime.

I have the 2012 workshop manual from topix for the 2.2 and the method to prime the engine is still to use the hand pressure pump (special tool 310-110).

So maybe there is a evolution on the very last models but not for the late 2011 and 2012 models.
Post #344589 11th Jul 2014 9:19pm
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Dave-H



Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1507

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
I wasn't aware the 2.2 would self prime either.
I know It's got the 'Won't run out' technology .. But if you keep going and do run it out ........... Confused
Had it happen on 2.2 Transits once or twice ... Hell of a job priming back up. Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant.
Post #344600 11th Jul 2014 10:22pm
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Mjibex



Member Since: 21 Mar 2013
Location: Reading
Posts: 283

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Loire Blue
I was lead to believe that:-
1. The 2.2 defender has a lift pump, as well as main injection pump. 2.4 has just the main injection pump.
2. Change a filter on a 2.4 and it needs priming, whereas 2.2 doesn't.

I've not had to change mine myself yet though.
Post #344611 11th Jul 2014 11:26pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
According to the 2.4 manual (German version) you can't run the system dry unless you have a fuel leak. Page 64 of the manual says at a certain minimum fuel level (never quite figured out how much), the engine goes into a reduced power mode in order to stop the fuel system pegging out. You can then limp 1.6 Km before it shuts itself down and waits for fuel.

You then have to put at least 4 L diesel in and do the fancy key twisting/brake pedal pushing to get it going again. Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #344636 12th Jul 2014 6:51am
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
Quote:
Not sure why it states depress the brake pedal - anyone know?


Because your computer dosn't have a keyboard, this is the car version of ctrl+alt+del.

There are loads of them for modern cars all of which have different resets or messages for the computer.
Post #344697 12th Jul 2014 1:16pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
most owners manuals tell you to push the brake pedal for the simple reason it might be in gear
Post #344701 12th Jul 2014 1:33pm
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ronwong



Member Since: 28 Jun 2012
Location: Singapore
Posts: 120

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
All these information I very useful. Thanks all. Which means, when it goes into some sort of limp mode, you should ready off the engine and walk to buy some fuel instead of trying to drive there. And if still dumb enough to still go on, it can go about 1mile till the engine die on me. And they fuel lines at this time is still primed with fuel mostly. So fill up and do the cycle thing so get everything back.
Post #345037 14th Jul 2014 3:34am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
That's for the 2.4 - better check if it's the same for the 2.2 Thumbs Up Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #345046 14th Jul 2014 7:02am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
I doubt I will ever be far enough from filling station to worry , but if I thought I might be then I would carry spare fuel ( 5 litres )

only thing I do carry is a spare fuel filter and with that I got one of the metal camping fuel bottles with a litre of diesel for priming filter
Post #345068 14th Jul 2014 9:38am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17240

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If you extend the tank breather into the rear body (the most sensible place for it anyway) then priming the 2.4 fuel system becomes very easy. Simply open the bleed valve in the engine bay and get an assistant with good lungs to blow into the breather pipe until bubble-free fuel emerges in the engine bay. Simple!
Post #345074 14th Jul 2014 10:53am
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