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YorkieV8



Member Since: 13 Mar 2013
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Cairns Blue
Disco Transfer Box into TD5 90
Hi, fairly new to the forum (see my intro) and am looking for some advice. Very Happy

I am intending to do the (apparently) popular disco transfer box conversion as I have a lot of slack in my output shafts, especially to front prop ('shunting'/'clunking' when taking up drive), so deffo need some work. Therefore it seems wise to change ratios too, but not sure which box to go for.

Apparently the best donor is the Disco 2, but some have manual diff lock, some viscous.

My questions are:
Am I correct in thinking that the box from a Disco 1 will not be suitable, because there is no throttle switch? Any other problems?
If I do go for Disco 2, do I need to find one with manual diff lock?
Were all Disco 2 boxes actually fitted with a diff, regardless of operation?
Is there any difference in Disco 2 engine fitment i.e. TD5 or V8?

Many thanks in advance.
Post #342216 2nd Jul 2014 12:02pm
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YorkieV8



Member Since: 13 Mar 2013
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Cairns Blue
PS apologies if this has been covered before. Did a quick search, but couldn't find all answers. '02 90 TD5
SIIa Lightweight V8
Post #342218 2nd Jul 2014 12:18pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17363

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Disco2 box is (as far as i know) identical on V8 and TD5.

All Dicso2 transfer boxes have a diff. Some have a mechanical difflock but most don't. A viscous coupling has never been used on Disco2.

Quite a few Disco2 transfer boxes have the internal components for the diff lock but had no linkage fitted. These are recognisable by the threaded spindle sticking up vertically from the front output housing.

The majority of Disco2 transfer boxes however had no internals fitted for the difflock. These are recognisable by the unmachined boss on the front output housing where the spindle mentioned above would be if the internals were fitted.

Buying second hand you will pay more for one of the fully-fitted boxes since they are in demand for Defender conversions and for Disco2 difflock conversions, and they are scarce to begin with.*

There is however no reason at all why you shouldn't retrofit the difflock from your old transfer box to a difflock-less Disco2 box. It is an easy job and you will have all the parts you need available from the old box. The parts you need to swap are not going to be the parts causing the slop in your old box. Alternatively you can swap the relevant gears from the Disco2 case into the Defender case, but if your old box is worn you probably don't want to do this.

Defender TDCis (Pumas) have the same ratio are the Disco2 so if you can find a transfer box from a Puma it will have the difflock and be the correct ratio.



* They're not however as scarce as genuine Disco2 difflock selector lever mechanisms! These may rocking horse poo look commonplace. If anyone has one for sale, please PM me, I have been looking for a genuine difflock transfer lever assembly for about a decade!
Post #342228 2nd Jul 2014 12:41pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Just to add a bit of confusion Mr. Green I thought I was going to need to change my transfer box (which I probably will do at some point) but in the mean time I checked my drive flanges and rear half shafts and found there was loads of slack!!! I changed all four drive flanges and the rear half shafts at the weekend which cost me about £80 and the difference is amazing. There's hardly any take up clatter and no big clunk when you press the clutch to slow down. I tried to upload a video to photobucket of how bad they were but it's not playing today but it's well worth checking for the money and time saving on the transfer box alone.

Ray
Post #342263 2nd Jul 2014 3:02pm
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YorkieV8



Member Since: 13 Mar 2013
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Cairns Blue
Many thanks for the quick and detailed replies chaps. Interesting stuff.

I'll look out for a good disco 2 box now then. Nice to know that the manual linkage is transferable.

I thought it might have been the prop uv joints causing the slack, but turning them by hand reveals that the transfer box output shafts turn with the props, particularly the front. I understand there can be numerous parts of the drivetrain causing this, just hoping that it is the transfer box so that I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone. '02 90 TD5
SIIa Lightweight V8
Post #342336 2nd Jul 2014 7:51pm
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1421

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
A disco 1 box is just as good, V8 or TDi, but lacks the electricery for throttle response when in low range. This again though can be swapped with the one on the original box, or will run just as well without. I'm pretty sure all come with the mechanical diff lock
Post #342369 2nd Jul 2014 9:37pm
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
I changed mine a while back, we'll worth it, makes for a much nicer drive, mine was from a low mileage Td5 disco, everything went ok. I did have to swap the speedo sensor and handbrake drums etc as it was a different size to mine, there appears to be no other difference to the one I have.
I thought everything was there on the disco's box but it lacked a switch which illuminated a light on the dash?? Somebody will be along soon to tell me otherwise no doubt.
Why don't you get your internals changed, then you know everything will just be as before. I also have an old pickup that has just had a recon gearbox and transfer box, the place I dealt with was Kelly 4x4, very nice bloke to deal with. It's not far for you either as they're in Halifax. Just a thought.
Post #342375 2nd Jul 2014 9:53pm
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YorkieV8



Member Since: 13 Mar 2013
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 SW Cairns Blue
Thanks Barbel and Lambley.

After reading various threads on here about the same problem of clunking/play when taking up drive, my fears now are that the problem could be my front diff. I think my next step will be to remove the front prop and go for a short drive in attempt to eliminate the rear. Vice-versa if necessary. On a possible plus side, if it is a diff problem and the transfer box is ok, I will then replace the diff and just change the internals of my transfer box.

Is there any way of quickly distinguishing which is causing the slack - transfer box or diffs (maybe even drive flanges/props?) without going to too much trouble and time of stripping anything down?

On a separate note, maybe related - not sure; I recently pulled out of a junction on a blind bend and had to really give it some beans when a fast approaching heavy vehicle came hurtling round said bend. I was turning right out of the junction and the whole car rocked over slightly from torque and the right side front wheel lost grip. I found this a little strange as it was dry and I have decent AT tyres. The TD5 isn't quite standard (big intercooler and PSI box so no road burner), but should this be possible, or does it point to the front diff being fubarred? PS the clunking/free-play was apparent before this. '02 90 TD5
SIIa Lightweight V8
Post #342432 3rd Jul 2014 8:36am
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Lambley



Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: Mid Devon
Posts: 1435

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
I've just had my diffs adjusted, apparently there is a certain amount of adjustment, I've not driven mine yet but the problem was 1/3 front diff, 1/3 rear diff, 1/3 transfer box, so with a recon transfer box and adjusted diffs it should drive without a clunk when changing gears etc.
Well that's the theory anyway.
Post #342433 3rd Jul 2014 8:50am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17363

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Check also for wear on the outboard ends of the halfshafts and the drive flanges. These are famous for wear and consequent clunking.
Post #342437 3rd Jul 2014 9:06am
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