 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Wheel bearings job. Parts numbers |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17351   
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You may want to bear in mind that it is possible to convert your hubs to the earlier arrangement with two nuts and no inter-bearing spacer, in place of the single nut plus spacer arrangement. The potential advantages are that you don't have to select a suitable size spacer on assembly (when you chance the bearings you may have to change the spacer), the nuts are reusable, and the bearing assembly becomes adjustable.
The disadvantage is that arguably more care is needed to assemble the hub in order to get the correct preload on the bearing. For part numbers, try here (scroll to bottom of page for parts catalogue link). |
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16th Dec 2013 10:19am |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 411  
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Thank you. Yes I know about the conversion but I don't see the point changing unless the bearings need replacing....
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17th Dec 2013 7:55am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17351
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Sorry, I misread your original post and thought you were replacing the wheelbearings!
Parts per hub:- Drive Flange Gasket: 571752 Washer: FTC5241 Nut: RFD100000 Hub oil seal: FTC4785 Bearings: STC4382 (x2) Drive flange bolt: BX110095M (x5) The drive flange bolts are grade 10.9 HT hex head bolts preloaded with thread locker. They shouldn't need replacing but will need either thread locker or spring washers added. If they need replacing, a 'better value' option may be to obtain a set of socket head cap screws from your local nut and bolt supplier since the LR bolts are a standard size (I forget what, something like M10 x 60) and socket head caps are generally supplied in 10.9 by default. In addition, if you run wheel spacers the bolt heads won't gouge chunks out of the wheel with socket head cap, but can with hex head. It is quite satisfactory to use Blue Hylomar instead of the drive flange gasket if necessary. The washer FTC5241 should be reusable (it isn't a tab washer on this design of hub). The nut is definitely not reusable. Do not buy Britpart nuts for this job - I needed a set in a hurry once and unfortunately could only get Britpart at the time. Not one of the nuts I bought had the right thread, and the first one I tried damaged the stub axle to the point I had to replace it. I was not happy at all at the time. |
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17th Dec 2013 9:39am |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 411
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Hi blackwolf, thanks for the top service with the parts numbers! Working in a remote part of the world with average internet so the Russian site doesn't work that well
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17th Dec 2013 10:37am |
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| ozrob Member Since: 31 Dec 2013 Location: Snowy Mountains Posts: 8 
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What size hub nut spanner do I need for the Puma wheel bearing nut?
Nut: RFD100000 |
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3rd Jan 2014 11:12am |
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| 100inch Member Since: 15 May 2012 Location: Brunswick Posts: 411
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Arghh, took my ages to get one in MEL. Ender up with a 44mm from Total Tools in Kooweerup just to get going. Ebay got some as well. 42mm is what you want but I struggled to get one with a 1/2 drive.m
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6th Jan 2014 5:48am |
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| astoltz Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: South Africa Posts: 31 
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Converting to the older style of tightening the bearings
http://4x4community.co.za/forum/showpost.p...stcount=15 1997 Land Rover Defender 110 HT 2.8i (BMW M52) 2009 Land Rover Defender 110 HT 2.4 TDCi(Puma) |
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11th Jan 2014 2:40am |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 864  
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Can anybody confirm that the cone/cup requirement for each hub is 2 x 603049/603011 (as opposed to Series cup/cones of 1 x 359S/354X plus 1 x 11162/11300)?
Peter |
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11th Jan 2014 4:58pm |
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| AlanH Member Since: 15 Mar 2010 Location: WA Posts: 242
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I'm about to do my wheel bearings all round prior to a longish trip through WA, SA and the NT. One of our local experts reckoned not to bother as they're big bearings.......big or not if some turkey hasn't greased them initially they're going to want grease sometime.
Many years ago my younger bro had a new Vauxhall Ventura (or Ventora) and the front bearings collapsed and were rich with rust and it had been a strike bound car and someone "forgot" to do them. Only 12 months warranty in those days and a good job they didn't fail the week before when we'd easily topped the ton on the M2 coming back from Margate one night. Any tips on what to look out for? And why does the nut have to be replaced? Any help will be appreciated. Cheers. AlanH. |
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23rd Jun 2014 1:10am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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isn't the hub nut 52mm |
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23rd Jun 2014 7:11am |
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| AlanH Member Since: 15 Mar 2010 Location: WA Posts: 242
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It is and I've just bought a rattle gun socket with 1/2" sq drive ready for when I do the job. Went and pinched my grand sons torque wrench which I gave him in the first place.
AlanH. |
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23rd Jun 2014 7:50am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Yeah,best re-grease it yourself, LR walk the bearings past the cupboard with the grease in, once torqued up the hub nut/stake nut is locked in place by hammering (the collar) with a chisel,so isn't re-usable. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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23rd Jun 2014 8:06am |
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| AlanH Member Since: 15 Mar 2010 Location: WA Posts: 242
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Thanks Jimbob7. Just waiting to get the nuts from the stealer rather than risk Britparts, and I'll do it.
Cheers. AlanH. |
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23rd Jun 2014 8:15am |
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