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DarrenJ



Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Oak flooring
Im just about to fit some oak flooring to the bedrooms and wonder if I can use an air nailer to fit or is it best to use a specific tool like the bostitch nailer?

Thanks in advance,

Darren Darren
Post #334704 30th May 2014 9:31pm
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jomara



Member Since: 26 Oct 2009
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 1790

Scotland 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hi Darren

If it tongue and groove you're better using a floor nailer as it pulls the boards tight (unless manufacturer recommends floating installation)

http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/en/fixing...ailer.html

Cheers
John 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
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Post #334707 30th May 2014 9:44pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
admittedly it was on a concrete floor but I used glue......15 years later and its Thumbs Up

don't see why you couldn't use glue even if its not a conc floor. I think the critical thing is to ensure the flooring has 'climatised' ?

good luck.
Post #334712 30th May 2014 10:27pm
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Blacktt600



Member Since: 30 Nov 2013
Location: Leeds
Posts: 125

England 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue
Is it solid oak or engineered?
Post #334713 30th May 2014 10:34pm
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Mac22



Member Since: 22 Nov 2013
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 675

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 DCPU Santorini Black
If it's solid oak over a sprung floor, nail it. You can hire the tools to fit.

Engineered can be glued (In the T&G) and strapped until set to produce a "floating floor"

Remember your expansion gaps and as noted earlier, acclimatisation, more so with solid oak...
Post #334726 31st May 2014 12:43am
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DarrenJ



Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks for the replies Thumbs Up
It's solid oak being mounted straight onto existing pine floorboards. I was going to nail as if there is any problem in the future it's more "recoverable" to be used again after lifting.
As I already have an air nailer I am wondering if I can get away with using that or should I use the proper flooring nailer like the bostitch?
As I'm doing 4 rooms over a few months it'd probably be cheaper to buy the tool and then sell on after I've finished with it rather than repeatedly hiring.

Cheers

Darren Darren
Post #334736 31st May 2014 7:33am
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willy eckerslike



Member Since: 15 Jun 2009
Location: North yorks
Posts: 1789

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Keswick Green
Use the bostich, also need clamps to draw the boards together, as already said get the oak in the room for a week or two this will let it get used to its new home. Just make sure you get the first one straight Thumbs Up

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Post #334739 31st May 2014 7:45am
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Mac22



Member Since: 22 Nov 2013
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 675

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 DCPU Santorini Black
The correct nails / nailer is important. Hired kit will give you the correct angle required for good fixings.
You will need something like sisalkraft and possibly a DPM.
Post #334917 1st Jun 2014 2:38am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Yeah - I used rubber glue (around 4-6mm thick) on a concrete floor, around 5 years ago, and it's been great.

Just fitted 20mm solid oak to my study, and used a primatech nailer - got good results Smile I used 50mm T nails...

Can well recommend oak flooring from these guys: http://russwood.co.uk/ Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #335054 1st Jun 2014 6:18pm
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