 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rubber bungs for rear cross member |
 
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347   
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They are all like that. The holes are there for all the different body styles or accessory or parts such as tow bars that can be bolted on.
To be honest you would be better off leaving them un-bunged so that the air can get around it, if you bung it water will sit in there and the rust will start off and get worse quicker. Best advice would be to give it a spray and a wipe with some ACF-50 or old engine oil to give it some protection  |
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13th May 2014 9:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20363
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Leave them too allow the internals to breathe, I have however sealed two that are just behind each wheel. (The large one) reason being that is a massive dirt trap. All the rest though I left alone.
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13th May 2014 10:15pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Do not bung up, do not use engine oil (very polluting), but spray the inside liberally with a corrosion wax (Dinitrol or other brand). Thereafter if for instance leaves and other impurities would settle into the rear crossmember, you can still hose it out, but preferably not with high pressure.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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14th May 2014 4:16am |
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| driver9 Member Since: 15 Oct 2012 Location: Suffolk Posts: 111 
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Fitted bungs to mine and determined the size using a drill. I gave the inside of the cross member a good squirt of waxoyl before fitting them. If you poke something flexible through the holes you will find most are open at the back so the cross member will still be able to breath.
At the end of the day it is personal choice, in my opinion it looks better with the holes blanked off but would not fit them if I used the car for its intended purpose - off road. |
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14th May 2014 5:54am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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yes I can understand what you are saying about letting the air in etc
but I personally have always put bungs in all holes that are not needed in whole chassis ( leaving bottom ones open to drain any water out that maybe still get in . always leave all bottom drain hole open on chassis ,doors etc also blocked all openings on rear tub cross members under rear arches (the oblong hole on each end ) but waxed inside as well I think it looks neater and keeps mud out , mud holds water in side chassis , I would say any rustproofing needs to be done before bungs fitted to allow wax under bung , and when fitting the bung I paint thick coat round hole fit bung then wipe off excess my rear cross member has all holes bunged and had a light coating of black wax when new and is as new now but I have always done my own rust proofing (waxoyl ) as I have the proper tools to do it , proper air wax injection guns ,long 6ft probes that spray 360 degrees round inside of chassis etc etc , any thing that's removed gets coated before fitting any thing new gets coated before fitting , all bolts get coated and regularly check outside chassis and every where for the corrosion bug ( alley and steel ) and have never had any corrosion welding on any land rover in 30 yrs of owning them or on any car for that matter ive owned. ive always thought the biggest mistake anyone can make is pressure washing any car , it drives water in where it should would never get , all these road side car wash places are causing more brake problems then you used to see we had a taxi (normal car not black cab ) in the other day for some work , only just a year old you could see the electro plating on rear caliper had been eaten away but all the truck wash being spray on then jet washed off , when I said to the owner about it , he answered " ah yes but they do us taxi drivers a deal " he wont think it a deal when he has to have a load of work done on a 2 yr old car and yes it was in for noisy brakes |
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14th May 2014 6:18am |
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| Jonno Member Since: 06 Mar 2012 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 234 
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I think a lot the the plating stripping on brake calipers is caused by the hand car wash places spraying on acid based alloy wheel cleaner that stuff really does ruin the electroplating. The general traffic film remover is not normally too bad.
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14th May 2014 5:15pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20363
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I never use that stuff, only wash and wax like the bodywork.
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14th May 2014 6:04pm |
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| adamatdraycott Member Since: 11 Nov 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 299 
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Bilberry wheel cleaner is good stuff its non acidic so doesn't eat the clear coat or the calipers
It's quite alkaline though so you need to make sure you dilute it plenty.... I tend to go about 10 parts waters to 1 cleaner |
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14th May 2014 6:29pm |
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