Home > Td5 > Engine cutting out at Motorway speeds |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
I've recently been having a problem along the same lines but mine has been completely conking out going uphill, completely normal on the flat and downhill. Cleaning the injector harness cured it for a short while, putting a new one on did the same but it would still stop uphills, misfiring first, losing power then engine stops. The MIL light was only on because the engine had stopped. After a pump change the problem has disappeared, just had a weekend with some longish trips and towing.
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22nd Apr 2014 7:06pm |
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Limey Member Since: 18 Oct 2013 Location: Northern Italy Posts: 193 |
Thanks for your input JWL, I think it's time that I took it in and got it plugged into to find the error code.
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23rd Apr 2014 2:25pm |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
The trouble is that a lot of fuel flow problems won't show on the diagnostics, I have a nanocom1 and even when plugged into the PC all that it would show is injector imbalance...........that would have been lack of fuel to the injectors at the time of the problem. No fault codes were registered in the code log.
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23rd Apr 2014 2:35pm |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
Worth checking the Red plug at the ECU, if the Oil has made it all the way down. Changing the injector harness will stop further/new oil but the oil already in the loom will take a while to flush through.
Pull Red plug out at ECU if it's got oil in it clean it up and see if it improves, clean every few weeks until it stops leaching oil |
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23rd Apr 2014 3:43pm |
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Limey Member Since: 18 Oct 2013 Location: Northern Italy Posts: 193 |
When I took the red plug off the ECU the last time, it was swimming in oil. I'll keep an eye on it.
I'm hoping this doesn't turn into one of those long running issues. |
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23rd Apr 2014 6:36pm |
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Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 |
Buy some electrical contact cleaner and clean it out every few weeks
It will clear |
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23rd Apr 2014 9:50pm |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
Mine was swimming at the red plug as well, I began to suspect that with so much at the plug, that it had got through to the ECU itself. I even went as far as to take the ECU out and opened it up, there was no sign of any oil ingress into the business bit so have just resolved to keep cleaning the plug out with contact cleaner and a blast with the compressor.
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23rd Apr 2014 9:58pm |
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psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221 |
Possibly faulty crank position sensor would be my guess. see what the codes say.
I had one go 'noisy' at high revs 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto. 2003 90 td5 soft top. 2014 90 XS SW 2.2. |
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23rd Apr 2014 11:45pm |
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Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897 |
Watch your temperature guage when it cuts.
If it goes high it indicates going into 'limp' mode (105°C), means your radiator needs flushing either externally and/or internally. |
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24th Apr 2014 1:09am |
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Limey Member Since: 18 Oct 2013 Location: Northern Italy Posts: 193 |
Well I'm glad to read that even when swimming in oil, that the inside of the ECU was still dry, because I suspect that is a parts bill I don't want to pay. Since seeing the shocking amount of oil that was sitting inside the red ECU plug connector, I'll just build it in as a regular check and clean job (forever probably)
Although even when clean, the cutting out problem continues, unfortunately. I tend to always keep an eye on the temp gauge in any vehicle, and even when it was stalling on me maddeningly regularly, it was still in the perfect spot re. engine temp. However, I've no idea when the rad was last flushed, so that might be an idea for the near future anyway. I'll make myself remember to let you Gents know what the codes say, it will be next week I think. I'm quite happy repairing almost anything on a classic car (or bike) as I find the simplicity of them easy to understand, but I'll admit that I feel out of my depth on anything with sensors and an ECU. So while I am taking it to a new (to me) local workshop who seem good, I still wanted to ask for opinions on here: as firstly, the local LR dealership didn't actually resolve this problem, and so I'd like to be forearmed with some information before taking the 110 into this other workshop, and secondly, because I would like to understand what's going on with my own vehicle. It worries me that this could be anything from a sensor, to a fuel pump, to sediment in the tank, etc. etc. That the codes only give you a vague direction, and that an LR dealer already tried to address it, without success. |
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24th Apr 2014 8:02am |
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Limey Member Since: 18 Oct 2013 Location: Northern Italy Posts: 193 |
Info for you guys who tried to help with analysing my problem, the ECU code identified the problem as the crank position sensor. So I'm hoping that's the end of the silly issues, for a while at least.
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4th May 2014 3:07pm |
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psimpson7 Member Since: 20 Nov 2013 Location: Gold Coast, Qld. Posts: 221 |
Glad its an easy fix. As I said mine did this with the exact same symptoms 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto.
2003 90 td5 soft top. 2014 90 XS SW 2.2. |
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4th May 2014 11:47pm |
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Limey Member Since: 18 Oct 2013 Location: Northern Italy Posts: 193 |
An addition,
The sensor was fitted, the Landie started up and revved, and the check engine light came straight back on. The workshop have diagnosed this as being caused by the flywheel, i.e. it is running out of true in some way, and therefore skimming the tip of the crank sensor. So, has anybody else ever encountered this? Last edited by Limey on 18th Jun 2014 10:04am. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th May 2014 2:13pm |
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Macpaul Member Since: 25 Mar 2013 Location: SW Surrey Posts: 439 |
Seems odd but IF that is happening, you can put a spacer between the crank position sensor hole and the sensor itself, distancing the tip from the flywheel.
It looks like this: Click image to enlarge 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop Now a 2013 110 USW too. |
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9th May 2014 2:16pm |
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