 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Troubleshooting heater...too much heat |
 
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| johnnyturbo2002 Member Since: 21 May 2009 Location: Poniente Granadino Posts: 371   
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So, I think that the control from hot to cold is broken as the heat comes on all settings, except for AC or when stopped. Under power, at all fan levels, heat pours out in copious amounts...
Has anyone dealt with this before? If so, easy fix ? Any ideas are appreciated, Thanks 2008 Defender 110 60 year Edition (sold unfortunately) IN the hunt for another Puma for the wifey! 2008 Kia Sorento LX 😁 2.5crdi |
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16th Mar 2014 1:25pm |
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| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422 
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Same here may be a slight difference when I get to cold section but only slight.
Have to go to full cold, or A,C on. Nice warm hand brake lever, but my right foot is still cold. Who would have thought a landrover that's to warm  |
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16th Mar 2014 7:13pm |
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| Nobby Member Since: 09 Aug 2012 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 444 
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Same for me, just kept working out the optimum setting found it and always return to it after the need to heat or cool. _______________________________
Puma Defender 90 |
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16th Mar 2014 7:34pm |
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| johnnyturbo2002 Member Since: 21 May 2009 Location: Poniente Granadino Posts: 371
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How about at a stand still with the blower on? Will there be a difference between hot and cold? The reason I ask is the cold will blow cold if standing still, but the moment I go, the air blowing over the heat element is not deflected and the cold air setting blows very hot...leads me to think there is actually a mechanical break somewhere. Do we know if there is a servo relay for the temp dial for hot and cold? It would seem that there is. Has anyone replaced or gotten a look at one? I am dreading the removal of the dash to get a look if that is where it is. ? 2008 Defender 110 60 year Edition (sold unfortunately)
IN the hunt for another Puma for the wifey! 2008 Kia Sorento LX 😁 2.5crdi |
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17th Mar 2014 9:09am |
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| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422
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Morning,
I don`t know if yours is set up the same way as mine, there is a hot water valve under the bonnet by the heater box just follow the hoses you will find it, you can check the control Bowden cable to see if its working and it`s travel is not impeded. You may have a faulty valve, you could remove it and inspect it just to see if it seals correctly. I have noticed the heater is a lot hotter when its driven but I put it down to the heater pipe comes from the egr heat exchanger down by the expansion tank so its gona get hotter the harder you drive it. |
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17th Mar 2014 10:59am |
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| skyeplumb Member Since: 22 Apr 2013 Location: Isle of Skye Posts: 134  
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Mine's the same - even on the coldest setting it's warm - and even turning it up a tiny amount it get too hot, usually have the A/C on to counter act + useful for drying up the leaks and general wetness from being a fishing / plumbers van on the Isle of Skye where it's usually raining
 Series IIa Lightweight - Long Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi - Sold Defender 110 XS 07MY Utility |
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17th Mar 2014 7:48pm |
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| Alicat Member Since: 25 Nov 2013 Location: Hertfordshire Posts: 136 
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Same here, hot on all settings except when at the end of the blue. Cold with A/C on though.
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17th Mar 2014 8:02pm |
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| johnnyturbo2002 Member Since: 21 May 2009 Location: Poniente Granadino Posts: 371
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Sounds like that would or could be my problem. Thanks for the info! So quite a stupid question I think, but do you think that the egr valve (mine is shot and I have to often reset while driving) has anything to do with it? I know they are two separate systems and to my knowledge, shouldn't be involved together, but as this is my first Landrover and unfortunately I do not turn wrenches like I used to, I ask the question. Thanks again for the info. Cheers 2008 Defender 110 60 year Edition (sold unfortunately) IN the hunt for another Puma for the wifey! 2008 Kia Sorento LX 😁 2.5crdi |
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17th Mar 2014 8:21pm |
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| martinfiattech Member Since: 13 Nov 2013 Location: leicester Posts: 422
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It`s very unlikely your egr valves causing the problem, they will do lots of other things to delight us.
No question is stupid if you don`t know the answer. If you look at the egr heat exchanger ( its at the back of cylinder head by no 4 cylinder, long cylindrical thing) you`ll get lots of latent heat thru there what ever happens as the coolant comes (if memory serves correctly) from the engine thru the exchanger then off to the heater and return to engine. Often wondered what difference blocking off the egr may have on latent heat transfer via the exchanger. Maybe some one knows and could spread some light on this. The egr only recirculates a small amount of gases by volume in general, the heat exchanger does cool down the gases to help with nox reduction and lower intake temperatures, along with aiding warm up times. Your oil cooler heat exchanger does the same job but its no good for nox reduction 
This is also my first new land rover as its much better than my old 1987, 90, ITS able to go past 70 mph  |
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19th Mar 2014 11:01pm |
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| Skeggy 90 Member Since: 07 Oct 2013 Location: Skeg Vegas Posts: 233 
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The difference between the Puma heater and most vehicles is that the cabin temperature is controlled by allowing hot water in to the Matrix and not by diverting air through or around the heater matrix like on nearly all other cars, this makes the heater very slow to adjust. it is due to the lack of room when the heater unit was moved inside the car on Puma models. Any problems with operation are normally down to the valve or low coolant levels.
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19th Mar 2014 11:22pm |
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| skyeplumb Member Since: 22 Apr 2013 Location: Isle of Skye Posts: 134
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it must be the valve on mine then as its not low on coolant and its not slow to adjust, its just that the temperature range goes 1-warm, 2-too hot, 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 - volcanic. in the summer you have to have the a\c on or you roast. in the winter, the coldest setting is pleasantly warm, so i'll look at it when the sun comes out. Series IIa Lightweight - Long Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi - Sold Defender 110 XS 07MY Utility |
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20th Mar 2014 1:05am |
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| WelshGas Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Vale of Glamorgan Posts: 935  
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Don't forget that the temperature of air from the heater will also depend on the amount of air passing through. Is your fan working properly?, What speed is it on? Is re-circulation on?
All these factors have a significant effect on the temperature. This modification has helped me - see 3/4th post pictures http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic6874.html  LANDYWATCH
Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php |
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20th Mar 2014 6:28am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 
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You might want to read this post on the subject of the Puma heater, it provides quite a bit of background on the limitations and quirky features of the TDCi heater.
The Puma heater is not without issues. In essence, you will find that the temperature fluctuates widely according to what the engine is doing. It is virtually impossible to maintain a constant temperature across a range of engine loads, unless you have the temp set to "arctic" ie off, or "supernova" ie full heat. You will also usually find that the left hand vents blow hotter than the right hand vents, especially noticeable with the footwell outlets. There was a half-hearted attempt to imporve this with a TSB severl years ago, although bizarrely the TSB was for LHD vehicles only despite the heater being nearly identical on both (the air enters from oppostide sides, but that is the only difference) and the probelm definitely being common to both. Another well-recorded deficiency is that the footwell vents are not well directed. It should be possible to shut the heater off, however, and if you cannot (ie it outputs heat under any circumstances with the knob in the cold position) it suggests that either the knob is not properly connected to the valve under the bonnet or that the valve is defective, and for whatever reason the valve is not closing completely. It is unlikely that the EGR cooler will cause any noticeable difference to air temperature; the fluctuations are caused by the wide variation in engine coolant temperature under different operating conditions, a common feature with modern, energy-efficient engines. (My vehicle has had the EGR disabled for the last 80k miles and it has made no difference on the unsatisfactory heater performance). Coolant level is also critical to heater performance. If the lever is correct there is a reasonable chance of maintaining an "in between" temperature provided that the engine is running at constant speed and load. If the level has dropped as little as to the bottom of the expansion tank this becomes almost impossible, the air will be stone cold. I am at the moment modifying a heater unit to fit to my vehicle which will provide cool air under all conditions to the directable dash vents - I hate not being able to get fresh air out of the dash with the heater on! despite the shortcomings, it is probably the best heater that LR has fitted to a Defender type vehicle so far. |
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20th Mar 2014 1:06pm |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981
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Had this one. The heater control valve was faulty, probably from day one. The part number, according to the invoice, is LRJQD500080. 48.47. Works like new now, well how new should have been.
Merlin |
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20th Mar 2014 2:58pm |
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