 | Home > Td5 > ABS,TC,Handbrake warning lights. |
 
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443   
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I take your point but, cats for diesels aren't part of the test, vehicles fitted with abs are in so much as the lights are supposed to perform as intended.
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12th Oct 2013 8:35pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Problem is the handbrake light is also on with my abs fault,otherwise I would just whip the bulbs out,will the handbrake light (which is also a low brake fluid warning light) go out if I remove the pump/ecu,etc???
Regarding MOT,as abs is/was an option and not mandatory, providing you remove all evidence I don't believe it will be an issue,not fitted,not tested. Flushed the brake fluid through again the other day,to try and get rid of the last tiny bit of air, as I been told an airlock could cause the pump to stick, it made a slight but noticable difference, but want a diagnostic machine to do a proper bleed cycle (and switch the lights off) to be sure,so now looking at Lynx. My mates got a copy of JLR, but I think it's only for Disco 3/Freelanders/R.R. If I get this fixed I will be flushing the brake fluid every 12 months (£10 for fluid),for no other reason to delay any corrosion inside the pump caused by slightly old fluid. EDITED TO ADD; MOT and abs removal http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_340.htm |
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12th Oct 2013 10:21pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Well it's been over a week of normal use for my 110 and the abs has worked as it should do. My fault was "Shuttle valve failure logged 255 times" as indicated by my Nanocom. I'm confident that the problem has been solved as the lights would return after 10 to 15 times of the self-test, i.e. when you turn on the ignition to position 2 the abs light goes out briefly then returns and after a second or 2 the tc light goes out leaving the abs light on untill you have reached 5mph+. I still watch the lights with baited breath looking for the abs to do its on-off-on sequence!
Nowhere in any LR tecnical stuff does it say that the switch pack on a Defender can be changed, it does for Discoverys but I allways thought that my problem was an electrical fault and could not see any difference for it not to work. |
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20th Oct 2013 10:25pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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Good news JWL. Bet you say a little prayer or a few profanities stating what you're going to do if they come back on again. I did for a week or three. Hope it's sorted for you.
Sounds like Jimbob may perhaps be at the root cause of his issue too hopefully. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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21st Oct 2013 7:12am |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Yes K9F that little scenario does play through my mind every time I put the key in
 Must admit doing the school run this morning in the heavy rain highlighted to me some of the "extras" I've fitted..........heated windscreen, no problems with misting up of the screen, the timer ended as I was halfway there and the screen started to cloud over allmost immediately. The heated mirrors kept the mirrors clear and easy to use. The "99" intermittent wiper relay, dialled in a short break made the wipers efficient, it didn't feel like they were slapping the window surround in protest at being overworked.
I've added many "toys" to my motor and all have a use, I just enjoy using and driving it no matter what the weather |
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21st Oct 2013 8:01am |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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It has worked for me, my Nanocom registered the fault "Shuttle valve failure logged 255 times" I decided to try the Discovery modification as shown on the American originated website and when I took the bottom off my modulator block it gave me a bit of confidence that I was heading in the right direction when seeing the state of the wires on the switch pack
 Click image to enlarge If you zoom in, there are breaks in the insulation. The recommended procedure is to cut and extend the wires to the plug so that they can be fed out of the plastic body, one goes to a good earth whilst the other is joined to the wire entering the modulator at the multi plug, this is the(looking at the socket) furthest on the right and middle one from top to bottom. When I cut the wires I started to doubt whether it would work as the wires under the insulation looked black, they was dust present as if they were breaking up and allthough I'm not the best at soldering it took some sticking together. The results didn't seem to make much of a difference, I had cleared the faults and after around 20 start cycles, i.e. 20 times it had performed the initial self test the lights were back on. I took a chance and bought the switch pack as I'm sure I've read that somebody else had done the same, plus looking at all the pictures of the Discovery ones I couldn't see any difference. At the end of the day all that the solonoid pack consists of are two solonoid switches joined to a male plug that slips inside the modulator block. There has been some pretty deep technical searches done by different members on this forum which have unearthed some highly detailed wiring/technical drawings from Wabco and I can't see any differences to any of the applications for this particular switch pack, they are on quite a few LR models as well as other applications that use these ABS modulator blocks. They can be found on some Hummers and they are a little less tight lipped than land Rover on the technicalities of the system. Sorry I'm rambling on so much but I get the feeling that LR themselves do not really know how these things work as it is one of those things they buy in and now that they've moved on to newer and more complicated TC/ABS systems they don't feel that they have to know how the older systems work as to them they are obsolete in their current manufacturing processes. |
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24th Oct 2013 9:49pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Update:
Changed the ABS relay under the seat and noticed there is another identical relay (same part number) next to it, whats that one for, T.C ?? Also cleared codes wi mi new Br*tpart Lynx,the code number is different to Snap-on code put pretty much says the same thing. 4014;pump failure 3,pump sticks, historical. P.s after swapping relay,clearing codes and after a drive, I switch engine off then re-start, the warning lights return. P.ps I used the wiring diagram to identify the ABS pump relay pretty sure I swapped the right one,as said before all connections were as good as new. Anybody have any advice?? Cheers |
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3rd Nov 2013 11:00pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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I have a feeling that with these episodes of being able to clear the codes, thus extinguishing the lights on the dash, point to the problem being an electrical fault. If it was a mechanical fault within the system then theoretically it should instantly reappear and not go through a couple of start cycles before coming back..........it's either broke or not. What knocks this theory is that the fault has to happen a few times before it turns the light on. What might be an idea is to get into a position where you can turn off the lights and put the motor in a situation to see if the abs and tc are working such as a muddy, slippy field. If they physically work then by rights there shouldn't be anything wrong with the mechanicals of the sytem.
It may pay to find a more indepth diagnostic facility, my Nanocom just pointed at the shuttle valve as did a Hawkeye and a mates Snap-On hand held kit. I know the Snap-On kit is expensive, it reads more than just Td5's, but I was talking to my MoT man last week who's investing £5k+ on a more indepth diagnostic kit that is capable of deeper interogation of vehicle electrics and gets into individual components in greater detail. Some independants are around now with this type of kit, it will cost to put the motor on it but will save you in the long run. That other relay that is under the seat is probably the fuel pump relay. |
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3rd Nov 2013 11:57pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Update;bled the system again (using Br*tpart Lynx for a power bleed) expelled a bit of air which resulted in improved brakes,reset the warning lights which stayed off for 2 days then came back on,didn't use the Defender for a week when i next used it all the warning lights went off on their own accord
 , warning lights stayed off for a few days then re-appeared,seem to have lost the recently gained improvement in braking performance too  .
As the brakes were poor (extreme wear and caliper partially seized,resulting in new discs,pads and calipers all round) when I bought it I've no reference on how firm the pedal should be,to me it still feels a touch soft with absolutely no initial "bite" when you press the pedal,what are brakes like on Defenders?? Kinda thinkin there is still air in there,wot utter dog sh*t to bleed,lol. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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22nd Dec 2013 1:47pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Lights went off again yesterday
 ,then came back on next time I started the engine.  .Wish the weather would warm up so I can bleed it, AGAIN!   .
I always thought the warning lights had to be switched off with a diagnostic machine,2nd time now it's switched itself off,is this an indication of anything? Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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24th Jan 2014 11:06am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Intermittent fault. Mine used to be intermittent and I eventually associated it with damp conditions and finally nailed it down to a chafed cable.
Intermittent faults are always the worse to locate, normally degredation of the fault means that when it is finally permanent it's easier to find. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic2394.html?highlight=abs If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th Jan 2014 11:43am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
For future reference, new ABS modulator and brake master cylinder fitted (and working....for now,lol),as suggested, the easiest way to remove the modulator is to remove bonnet, air intake and loosen pedal box (pedal box cannot be removed coz the modulator and steering column are in the way),stubby ratchet spanners also come in useful as does a box to stand on.The only casualty was the air intake grill,which has the most feeble plastic lugs ever seen and again is another LR service item
 .
Bleeding wasn't to bad as I used Lynx diagnostic which dunt half shove fluid through fast,most (A LOT) of the air was in the N/S front,I think without it I would have wasted more fluid and time. From now on the fluid is being changed every 12 months,as buying a new modulator is nearly as much fun as fitting it. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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12th Mar 2014 8:12pm |
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