Home > Puma (Tdci) > Another Oils Question - Diffs, Gearbox, Trans Box... |
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HMARR Member Since: 04 Jun 2013 Location: New Zealand Posts: 56 |
Gday. I realise there has been some good discussions on oils on here, but I'm finding it very hard in New Zealand to try and get the exact specified oils.
I'm changing my Diff, Transfer Box and Gearbox oils this weekend and I've bought the following - can anyone tell me if they are ok to use? Diffs: Additive: Nulon G70 - PTFE - similar to the Bardahl additive a lot of other forum members use - http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Specialty...wuqsvmSyTM Oil: Penrite PRO GEAR Full Synthetic 75W-85 Gearbox: Same additive as above Oil: Penrite PRO GEAR Full Synthetic 75W-90 Trans box Same as Gearbox (inc additive) Are these all OK to use? Hamish |
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24th Feb 2014 8:37pm |
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sasha2001 Member Since: 02 Jan 2009 Location: New Zealand+ russia Posts: 206 |
The PRO GEAR 75W-90 (Full Syn.) at some repco meets Ford M2C200-C for the gearbox and transfer box
redline gear oil is good apparently also at BNT : http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/produc...-gear-oil/ castrol 80 90 for diffs you can get total oils for the engine as well http://www.totaloilsolutions.co.nz/wp-cont...30_tds.pdf |
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25th Feb 2014 8:20am |
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Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2638 |
I recently changed the gearbox oil to the Motul Gear 300 75w90 (full synthetic), and gear changes are now much, much better.
http://www.motul.com/za/en/products/oils-l...-300-75w90 -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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25th Feb 2014 8:55am |
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Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2638 |
Mack,
I read up a lot about this on the Oz forum, since their climate/running conditions are very close to what we experience here in ZA. Basically LR recommends GL4 because GL5 is unsuitable for the yellow metal used in the gearbox (synchro rings). However the Motul (and a few others) are dual rated GL4/5's but are yellow metal safe. This thread will answer your question: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defen...300-a.html -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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26th Feb 2014 7:13am |
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Mack Member Since: 11 Jan 2014 Location: Central America Posts: 58 |
Thanks Naks that really cleared it up for me. In my first gearbox oil change I went for the Castrol BOT and now Im up for the second change. I had avoided the syntrax for that gl4/5 issue. Being the BOT almost 3 times the cost I will go for either the syntrax or motul. My driving is moderate. Not much load, I try to keep it below 750 kg when I need to take heavy equipment and it is almost never. I always keep speed less than 80kph. How often do you recommend I change my oil? The dealer recommends every 100k (thats when I did my first change), but now at 50k since first change I wish to do it again.
Cheers Mack |
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26th Feb 2014 10:13am |
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