 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Help with wiring please. |
 
|
|
|
| Cibit Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 424   
|
I am a tad confused so thought some clever people might ride to my rescue.
Ok I have been wiring up my lights and now I come to the wiring to switches and relays. This is the relay diragram I found online http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm Questions: If my lights are wired to the battery via a relay do I need a power from ignition switch lead? Do I really need to earth the relay and should the switch be earthed The lights are all earthed on a loop direct to - terminal on the battery All help appreciated  59 2.4 110 XS Utility
55 TD5 110 CSW Special Vehicle |
||
26th Apr 2010 6:42pm |
|
| willy eckerslike Member Since: 15 Jun 2009 Location: North yorks Posts: 1789 
|
Still got a bruise on me heed from that melon..............
 Original Member Pie n Pea Club.
110 HCPU Tipper |
||
|
26th Apr 2010 6:52pm |
|
| Cibit Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 424
|
Still waiting me invite for tea. I mean I brought the veg
 I will bring a chicken next time see if you can take a hint 
And I still have a sore shoulder from holding up the ute at the tipping point last week  59 2.4 110 XS Utility
55 TD5 110 CSW Special Vehicle |
||
|
26th Apr 2010 6:58pm |
|
| Cibit Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 424
|
Ok more concise question.
Do I need to have power to both the switch and the relay? But thanks for the more helpful reply Steve  59 2.4 110 XS Utility
55 TD5 110 CSW Special Vehicle |
||
|
26th Apr 2010 7:15pm |
|
| big steve Member Since: 24 Dec 2009 Location: hertfordshire Posts: 2456 
|
i have 8 light with 3 switches we run a loom from under drivers seat to the switches in dash basically a power cable that split to the 3 switches
then the rest of the wiring went from dash to battery side i have 3 relays behind the seat which have mains power straight from battery which are individuel to each relay which are also fused hope this helps cheers steve 2015 2.2 tdci hardtop xs 3.2 conversion DONE 238bhp and 707nm torque and thats just the start ;-P hybrid turbo in build -done ready to fit ashcroft atb in transfer box 6 speed auto in build |
||
|
26th Apr 2010 7:33pm |
|
| Cibit Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 424
|
This is how I am set up at the moment
Lights to relay. Relay to earth. Battery to relay. Relay to switch. The lights are earthed to the battery. What now confuses me is what connections need to be made on the switch side? Do I need to supply power to the switch even though the relay is supplied power? I thought adding 2 power leads to one component would lead to a flash and a bang?  59 2.4 110 XS Utility
55 TD5 110 CSW Special Vehicle |
||
|
26th Apr 2010 8:06pm |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
|
Cibit,
Wiring the lights purely depends on how you want them to switch on and when! Off your main beam and when the ignition on is best! This is how I wired mine in laymans terms, they will only come on with main beam but can be isolated with a separate switch! Positive supply direct from battery to relay circuit supply in via an inline fuse (30). Relay circuit supply out to lights (87). Earth from lights to earth vehicle chassis! Tap off from headlamp main beam supply to switch input (no fuse needed in this instance)! Switch output to relay coil (86)! Relay earth to vehicle chassis (85)! Dependant on what type of switch you have you may need to add extra cable from relay output back to switch if the switch is an illuminated type when on! Hope this helps! This configuration will allow your lights to come on when main beam is selected AND the switch is selected on! Deactivation of either will switch lights off! Hope this helps! Now I'm back in at work I have found this off Google schmoogle....  Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! Last edited by K9F on 27th Apr 2010 7:11am. Edited 2 times in total |
||
|
26th Apr 2010 9:28pm |
|
| Coolcamper55 Member Since: 22 Apr 2010 Location: Inverclyde Posts: 45  
|
If you consider that a relay has 4(sometimes5) terminals. Two of them operate the relay coil which when 12 volts is applied move the contacts to make the circuit to carry 12 volts to the load, light, fan, whatever via the other two contacts.
So when you want to engergise the relay, you throw the switch, the switch has a connection to a 12 volt supply and then to the relay. It also has a third connector which goes to earth and that is to allow the neon to light when you throw the switch. There is no need for a earth on the relay, the earth can be at the light or fan i.e. the load end save running lots of cable The reason for using relays is that if you consider say a light bar drawing 20 Amps you do not want that sort of current running thro the dash board. The current flowing via the switch is about 1 amp which means the wire guage is very much reduced and you do not have lots of power running around the back of the dash. Hope this helps, Tommy Tommy 110 XS TDCi |
||
|
27th Apr 2010 6:00am |
|
| alantd Member Since: 14 Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 1513 
|
Out of interest, why do you tend to put the switch on the earth and not the live? I've seen this done before and was wondering whether it's a specific vehicle thing or general electrician practice
 One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition |
||
|
27th Apr 2010 9:31am |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
|
' Best trade practice.' Safer to switch an earth with little or no potential than a live feed with full circuit voltage! Less chance of arcing and sparking! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
27th Apr 2010 10:03am |
|
| TallPaul Member Since: 28 Aug 2007 Location: Nr Reading Posts: 270
|
Its also easier to "bodge" in a remote location or emergency. For example the IBS split charge I have in the Disco switches the earth, so if your whizzy voltage monitoring control panel dies, you just chop the control cable to the relay that links the battery and earth it if your stuck somewhere and need to dual batteries.
If it was switched live, you would need a live feed, fuse, etc. Disco 3 gone but the memory of the bills remain... XS 110 Utility maybe one day..... (did they fix the quality yet?) |
||
|
27th Apr 2010 10:44am |
|
| Cibit Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 424
|
Thanks for the replies
I have earthed both switches and relays and the switches have constant live. I have the relay power feed via the winch loom cut off switch so that needs to be on to power the relay and lights. No burning smells yet and the instalation is reasonably tidy so fingers crossed  59 2.4 110 XS Utility
55 TD5 110 CSW Special Vehicle |
||
|
29th Apr 2010 5:23pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
