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MJP



Member Since: 28 Dec 2013
Location: Holywell
Posts: 41

Wales 
New Defender - Must-do jobs
Please be patient with me - I am relatively new to this site and about to embark on my first Defender purchase .
About to place an order for a new 110 XS SW but through reading various posts across this site I am feeling a bit apprehensive about the vehicle arriving with some important jobs to be done . Other posts refer to , for example,undersealing, changing nuts and bolts .....
Is it possible brought this thread for other members to help me compile a list of must-do jobs for the Dealer or someone to undertake when my Defender arrives. I am not a particularly practical person but have the LR Defender bug!
Can you please help me ?
Post #298874 14th Jan 2014 9:23pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3639

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
good underbody dinitol treatment prior to getting it wet or dirty, and spray everything else that can / will corrrode with ACF50 including seat boxs engine bay etc etc DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #298875 14th Jan 2014 9:26pm
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MJP



Member Since: 28 Dec 2013
Location: Holywell
Posts: 41

Wales 
Dinitrol better than wax oil?
Post #298881 14th Jan 2014 9:29pm
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Cuthbert



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Up North
Posts: 1535

You are buying a new Defender - not a kit of parts for self assembly. You should be able to arrive at the dealer's and drive home in your new Defender not having to worry about changing nuts and bolts.

By all means fettle it to your own specification but you will be getting a three year warranty - so chill out, relax the blood pressure and if you feel like waxing the underside come the summer then do it.

Just tell the dealer that you expect the vehicle to be given a thorough pdi before you arrive to take delivery and that you will be bringing a large magnifying glass and QA checklist to the handover meeting.
Post #298882 14th Jan 2014 9:33pm
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3782

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Ha ha ha,.."Not particularly practical",..."LandRover Bug"???....mate, you sound a lot like me.
However, in the U.K., you're lucky that you've got lots of people on this site, & also people that look after Defenders as their full time occupation, so you'll have no worries at all.
A bit different to Aus, where for sure we have several LandRover experts, but there's no-one that does the stuff that some on this site do....all it takes is..the folding stuff!
My recommendation is take your time, feel your way (that's what I'm doing). Choose your Factory options carefully, then, after that, you can get used to your new toy, & do the stuff that you need.
We haven't even got ANYONE who can do Waxoyl etc over here, but if I was in the UK, that is the FIRST thing I would do, prior to delivery if possible.
Enjoy, Pickles.
Post #298886 14th Jan 2014 9:35pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Same sort of thing, but Dinitrol generally viewed as being a bit easier to use and gives a slightly neater finish. Bilt Hamber also make some well-regarded corrosion prevention products. It really is worthwhile getting this stuff sorted when the vehicle is brand new though, it will never be as easy or effective to do again. It perhaps sounds a bit of a trivial thing, but there is a big difference between having a thin layer of protection and no protection at all. Some of these modern products are extremely effective at very thin film thicknesses (ACF 50 being one example). 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #298887 14th Jan 2014 9:35pm
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Cuthbert



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Up North
Posts: 1535

LR90XS2011 wrote:
good underbody dinitol treatment prior to getting it wet or dirty, and spray everything else that can / will corrrode with ACF50 including seat boxs engine bay etc etc


In the current weather conditions that may be difficult unless you have access to a large heated garage? Getting all the moisture out of internals of the chassis may prove problematic?
Post #298889 14th Jan 2014 9:37pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2638

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
my dealer does wax oiling, maybe worth seeing if they will do it there before its even left the forecourt to get damp?
Post #298895 14th Jan 2014 9:41pm
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MJP



Member Since: 28 Dec 2013
Location: Holywell
Posts: 41

Wales 
What about Nakatanenga bolts??.
Post #298896 14th Jan 2014 9:41pm
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MJP



Member Since: 28 Dec 2013
Location: Holywell
Posts: 41

Wales 
Thanks everyone up to now.

SUMMARY So Far
1. Underbody treatment such as Waxoyl or Dintrol
Post #298898 14th Jan 2014 9:45pm
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MrFlips



Member Since: 27 May 2009
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 682

Wales 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Santorini Black
In terms of very useful mods for very little money, I would buy a replacement relay so that you can have variable intermittent wipers. Peter
2008 SWB Truck Cab
1952 80" Soft top
Post #298926 14th Jan 2014 10:43pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5668

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I would change the front bumper for something sturdy, Standard bumpers have cost me money in the past Whistle Whistle , but my Devon 4x4 one has just saved me some money again on Friday Embarassed Embarassed

Andy
Post #298930 14th Jan 2014 10:47pm
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MrFlips



Member Since: 27 May 2009
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 682

Wales 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Santorini Black
Your bumper will begin to rust and the paint flake off within a year. Like Andy I've replaced mine with one from Devon, and it's been fantastic as well as providing front towing points - a must do thing if you're going to use your Defender off tarmac. (Personally I'd buy a Devon bumper, and keep the standard one on until the paint peels off - won't take long. Then get it replaced under warranty and sell the new one they give you, and then fit the Devon one). Peter
2008 SWB Truck Cab
1952 80" Soft top
Post #298935 14th Jan 2014 11:03pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
The effectiveness of Waxoyl can be seen in the tens of thousands of vehicles from the 1960s and 70s that were protected with it and are to be seen still, corrosion free and in daily use, on our roads today.

For goodness sake, why on earth haven't Land Rover owners woken up to the fact it's rubbish? In the same way that you 'do the Hoovering' with a Dyson, 'Waxoyling' has become a generic term for applying a rust protective coating to vehicles.

Every modern magazine test of rust protective coatings finds Bilt Hamber's range to be superior to pretty much anything else on the market. Waxoyl uses white spirit as its solvent. It evaporates off and leaves a relatively hard wax coating that cracks in cold weather. As soon as a bit of moisture gets underneath it, it traps water in contact with the metal and lets it rust like the clappers.

It also has hardly any ability to leech into gaps and needs to be thinned to use it. The genuine kit supplied to apply it is rubbish too.

I've not used Dinitrol, but as the former owner of a number of Opel Mantas, I have used both Waxoyl and, when I realised it was dreadful, various BH products. There's no comparison.

Waxoyl deserves to be allowed to die gracefully. Its time is long gone and I'm amazed that it still has such a reputation in spite of all the evidence as to its ineffectiveness.

My brand new 110 will be drowned in Dynax when it arrives in March. Do I work for BH? Er, the clue's in my username. I'm merely a very happy customer of theirs and if you try them, I guarantee you will be too.
Post #298961 15th Jan 2014 6:47am
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
I just get a new one
Post #298965 15th Jan 2014 7:12am
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