 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Contaminated fuel |
 
|
|
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298   
|
Gutted for you. This might be a stupid suggestion but what about disconnecting it?
|
||
3rd Dec 2013 9:03pm |
|
| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189  
|
I've been having rough idle, some unusual revving and pinking noises.
I have also been in the back end of France this year and had to fill up from a couple of back water filling stations and that has me thinking did i have contaminated fuel and/or have a partially blocked fuel filter as a result. Just been trawling through various posts and before I start stripping out MAP or MAF etc I will wait until next week after the big 4 yr service and see whether a new fuel filter makes a difference. I have also tried BP Ultimate, Millers etc with varying results. So by the end of this week I will have a nearly empty tank and I will fill up with standard Shell for a change and about a 100 miles later it will be in for the service. At least then I will know all filters and lubes are fresh and if I experience any problems I can start from a clean sheet, you never know the dealer diagnostics might throw up a DTC or two, I hope not but as the 90 is essential I want it in tip top condition. BM52 |
||
|
3rd Dec 2013 11:43pm |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
|
just wondering if your egr clean cycle still takes place?
if not just wondering if there's anyway the egr could be stuck open / partially open? if it doesn't do clean cycle it might be worth putting the standard map open both to see if the clean cycle still works and also to see if you can hear the egr operating whenl reving the engine while stationary (if you listen carefully you should be able to hear it at circa 1500 rpm when reving up to c 1750 rpm) - if it does then I guess you can probably rule the egr out of the equation. don't suppose either of you have access to a egr blank that you could fit and therefore rule out the above? this might then lead back to the map sensor (but could still be wiring, other sensors etc). for me the fact that the map looks at temps as well as pressure I decided to bite the bullet and spend the £100+ on a new one, before that I was very reluctant. good luck both. |
||
|
4th Dec 2013 6:48am |
|
| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189
|
Now you mention it I have not heard the chucka chucka for a while. Just listened as I switched off...no sound. tried again, same.
So - might have to look into EGR as well. Better do a search on testing the EGR then. Bummer BM52 |
||
|
4th Dec 2013 8:31am |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
|
When I had my issues I whipped the EGR valve out and thoroughly cleaned it in brake cleaner. Hands were cut to shreds after but it did sort it out.
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
4th Dec 2013 9:12am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17337 
|
I must say that the symptoms I have woud make me suspect the EGR - but my EGR is disabled in the BAS map I am running and (as far as I know) has been firmly shut for about a year (I have however 'pm'ed Pete for confirmation that the EGR should never do anything at all in the map).
I am tempted to put the original map back on (with the EGR enabled) to see what happens, but I am somewhat worried that after a year of doing nothing the EGR may not work properly and might add a further fault into the equation! If I can get the time this afternoon I'll try to capture live data as the fault occurs to see if there are any clues. |
||
|
4th Dec 2013 9:31am |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
|
Blackwolf, personally I wouldn't overcomplicate the issue by reverting back to the standard set up. Ultimately if it was running right with the current set up and you do revert you may leave yourself open to the proverbial 'can o' worms scenario.'
Not much help I know but I have been there and I do have the T-shirt. There's a decent independant in Bournemouth is it not worth considering swinging buy or giving him a tinkle perhaps to see what he may suggest? 
http://www.bournemouthlandrover.co.uk/ If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
4th Dec 2013 10:11am |
|
| bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2232 
|
I second K9F comment, if its been ok for over a year I really cant see it being that unless is has not been fully shut mechaniclly for that time of ocurse.
Give me a call ive sent you a pm with my number, I have a few things to check that are easer to chat about than type. Pete |
||
|
4th Dec 2013 10:33am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17337
|
Update. I am at last cautiously optimistic that the problem may at last be solved!
This morning I replaced the Volume Control Valve in the fuel pump and although I haven't had time to do a thorough test (and it will take a while before I am fully confident in the vehicle again) I was able to drive for 45 mins and about 15 miles without a hiccup, a very encouraging sign. I have been fortunate to have received helpful advice from many people on this forum and I would like to thank you all for you suggestions. In particular also special thanks must go to Lorryman and to Pete Bell, both of whom are exceptionally knowledgeable and generous with their knowledge. Thank you, both. This forum is lucky to have them! I am also fortunate to know the senior tech at a main dealer, and in a conversation yesterday he immediately diagnosed the VCV from my description. Apparently it is very easily damaged by dirt or water and as a matter of routine should be renewed in cases of contaminated fuel. It also doesn't tend to cause DTCs since the LP fuel circuit isn't monitored. My old valve looked perfect but seemingly wasn't working right. The Ford dealer where I bought my new valve sells so many he knows the part number by heart! So if you have fuel starvation symptoms, poor acceleration, rough idle, and no DTCs, it may well be worth replacing the VCV. |
||
|
7th Dec 2013 8:04pm |
|
| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
|
Great news Blackwolf, fingers crossed for you.
Without wishing to blow too much sunshine up anyone's crimper I fully concur with your sentiments about Pete Bell and Lorryman. Both of them have given me too sound advice in the past. Thank you. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
||
|
7th Dec 2013 8:08pm |
|
| bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2232
|
Great news so far. Do be sure to do a high pressure pump calibration and a pilot correction adaptation after unless you have already. Both with a hot engine. This will do the final setup after the valve replacement.
Regards Pete. |
||
|
7th Dec 2013 9:34pm |
|
| DAZ110 Member Since: 06 Dec 2007 Location: East Sussex Posts: 2035 
|
It's good to hear that hopefully you have sorted your running problem
|
||
|
7th Dec 2013 9:43pm |
|
| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
|
That's great news.
How did you fit it? Did you need to bleed the pump? Easy job? I hope it stays good and as you said a very big to bas and lorrymans. |
||
|
7th Dec 2013 10:03pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17337
|
Very easy job although access isn't great especially if (like me) you have large hands. 1 electrical connector and 2 screws and the valve comes out, reverse to fit. No need to bleed anything afterwards (in fact no way to bleed that part of the system, it's self-purging) but you do need to do a "pump replacement" relearn afterwards to allow the ECU to calibrate the new valve, so Faultmate or similar is needed.
The LR standard repair times manual has this as a 20 minute job, start to finish. It's really not much harder than changing the MAF or MAP/T sensors, just a little more fiddly. |
||
|
8th Dec 2013 10:42pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
