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peterl

Member Since: 08 Jan 2009
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 308

wiring / set up of winch controls

The winch (warn M8000) which was on the front of the 90 that I have just bought has no remote / wander control lead and new they are £100+. Combined with this, two solenoids will need replacing.

I have been advised it may be cheaper and beneficial if I do away with the Solenoid control box and remote lead and wire in an Albright contactor instead with a switch in the cab.

Is this a recognised option? and can anyone suggest an alternative, or is it best to stick with solenoid pack and remote lead?

The winch is not used very much as we try not to get stuck!!! but when used will be for self recovery.

Thanks

30th Mar 2010 9:59am

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

I think you need to keep the solenoid control box but you can wire that to the cab.
You could use a electric window switch from a td5 to control the winch. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

30th Mar 2010 11:07am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8113

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

fit an albright and be done with it IF the solenoids you have dont work.

if not jsut wire in a window switch or any mom/off/mom to the exisiting solenoid pack, its only 3 wires that you will need to run. trace the wires off the exisiting female socket you have to find which ones are required. one will earth the others will be fwd or back. if it s a 5 wire then wires 4 and 5 just join to make a complete circuit as a fail safe. just bypass this when you wire in your own switch. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

30th Mar 2010 3:07pm

peterl

Member Since: 08 Jan 2009
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 308

Thanks, the winch is currently on the bench having a once over, looks like we will go the allbright route for long term reliability.

Pete

31st Mar 2010 3:46pm

Cibit

Member Since: 26 Oct 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 424

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Could I borrow this thread please?

Thanks

Could someone please post a pic or two of the way the winch cables attatch to the battery please. My winch arrives tuesday and it comes with extention cables and a battery cut off switch with removable key. I want to do this myself but its a far cry from bodging some tractor or a vw carravette which is pretty much the limit of my endevours.

All advice appreciated.

59 2.4 110 XS Utility
55 TD5 110 CSW Special Vehicle

3rd Apr 2010 6:21pm

discocuzzy

Member Since: 16 Jul 2008
Location: surrey
Posts: 1200

Piece of cake mate, red to positive on isolator, red from isolator to battery,same for the negative

There is a big gromet on the left hand side of the battery box that will allow you to bring these up from the chassis, i mounted the isolator on the front of the passenger side battery box (drill from the inside of the box through the carpet with a stepped reamer, that way the isolator conections are inside the battery box)
connect to the isolator from the winch and then from the isolator to the battery

Doesnt really matter if you start at the winch end or the battery box end, just chase the cables above the chassis and get some large tie wraps to secure to the top of the chassis out of harms way.

It will all make sense once you lay out the components i promise!!

You cannot teach stupid people to do clever things

3rd Apr 2010 6:46pm

Chunk

Member Since: 19 Oct 2009
Location: County Durham
Posts: 154

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

discocuzzy wrote:
Piece of cake mate, red to positive on isolator, red from isolator to battery,same for the negative

There is a big gromet on the left hand side of the battery box that will allow you to bring these up from the chassis, i mounted the isolator on the front of the passenger side battery box (drill from the inside of the box through the carpet with a stepped reamer, that way the isolator conections are inside the battery box)
connect to the isolator from the winch and then from the isolator to the battery

Doesnt really matter if you start at the winch end or the battery box end, just chase the cables above the chassis and get some large tie wraps to secure to the top of the chassis out of harms way.

It will all make sense once you lay out the components i promise!!

What Steve said, its straight forward once you get going. If you are getting a winch from David Bowyer, the extended cables are on the generous side. I found it easier to keep the slack cable in the battery box until I decide whether I'll ever need a split charge dual battery set up and trim them to length when I do that.

4th Apr 2010 9:51am

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