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Ian Mac



Member Since: 16 Oct 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 53

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Roof to bulkhead seal?
Morning

I have this seal that's cracked and now the car is leaking. Not 100% wether its a mastic type seal or a replacement part?

Many thanks

Ian 2008 TDCI 110 XS
1985 90 300tdi. Gone
2005 RR vogue TD6. Gone
Post #274481 17th Oct 2013 9:50am
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Ian Mac



Member Since: 16 Oct 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 53

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

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Click image to enlarge
 2008 TDCI 110 XS
1985 90 300tdi. Gone
2005 RR vogue TD6. Gone
Post #274483 17th Oct 2013 9:53am
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william8



Member Since: 03 Apr 2013
Location: Motherwell
Posts: 259

Scotland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
When i repainted my roof the guys used stuff that still hasn't dried completely and its been 3 months! William
Post #274519 17th Oct 2013 12:10pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20355

United Kingdom 
What ever you do I'd fill it with black silicone for now to stop your leak in the meantime. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª
Post #274520 17th Oct 2013 12:11pm
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Sonarmender



Member Since: 04 Apr 2013
Location: Guz
Posts: 338

England 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Whatever you do, DO NOT use SIlicone as when you come to paint you will have nothing but issues with the paint reacting with the silicone.

Use a paintable Sikaflex Thumbs Up You only have one life, live it....forget the cost.
90XS Hardtop
Post #274530 17th Oct 2013 12:57pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I'd take the roof lining down and see if the roof bolts are loose first as that's a big gap. After all the bolts are tight (like said above) use sikaflex and NOT silicone
Post #274541 17th Oct 2013 1:34pm
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Regard



Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: RSA
Posts: 251

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey
Loose bolt between A-frame pillar and roof.

Mine actually fell out and rattled inside the headlining! Rolling Eyes

You will have to remove the headlining replace/tighten the big "Phiilips head" screw between the pillar and roof. This should "pull" the roof back to the pillar and close that gap.

Then reseal with Sikaflex
Post #274553 17th Oct 2013 2:33pm
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Natlas



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 460

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Frosts also do a non-setting black filler that's designed for window frames and works very well, shouldn't upset future paint jobs. 2.2 90 XS
88" Series One
Old Norton Smile
Minerva
Post #274588 17th Oct 2013 5:28pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
dum-dum would work if you can get hold of it
Post #274592 17th Oct 2013 5:56pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

It will be a loose roof bolt tighten up and gap will disappear
Post #274596 17th Oct 2013 6:27pm
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Ian Mac



Member Since: 16 Oct 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 53

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks all for the help.

The dealer seam to think there is 2 seals that needs replacing?


ian 2008 TDCI 110 XS
1985 90 300tdi. Gone
2005 RR vogue TD6. Gone
Post #276376 24th Oct 2013 5:18pm
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Gwily



Member Since: 02 Oct 2011
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 13

South Africa 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Regard wrote:
Loose bolt between A-frame pillar and roof.

Mine actually fell out and rattled inside the headlining! Rolling Eyes

You will have to remove the headlining replace/tighten the big "Phiilips head" screw between the pillar and roof. This should "pull" the roof back to the pillar and close that gap.

Then reseal with Sikaflex


I have a creaking noise next to my right ear that seems to be coming from underneath the roof lining, it is driving me mad!
Is there any easy way of getting the lining off to check behind it? Do I need a special tool? And how difficult is it to get it back? Defender 110 "Huberta"
Post #297784 11th Jan 2014 1:34pm
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Regard



Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: RSA
Posts: 251

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey
You will need to remove A-pillar trim, rearview mirror and the 3 bolts holding its base to the roof, remove sun visors, remove seatbelt (17mm socket), remove B-pillar trim, remove rear passenger door grab handles and trim(above door)' remove middle section headlining, now remove front headlining.

It is such a great PITA that you might as well remove the complete headlining and check all bolts!

You will need a "trim removing tool", socket set (no 10,13,17) and a phillips/star screw driver.

Now you will also need 21 Haedlining clips (also known as "Fern tree clips"). With the trim remover tool you can get all out without them breaking but they just do not "grab" as well as befpre. You can get these only at LR at R23 per clip. Yes.....close to R500 (£40) for 21 small plastic clips unless you order via ebay.
Post #297821 11th Jan 2014 4:52pm
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Gwily



Member Since: 02 Oct 2011
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 13

South Africa 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Thanks a lot for the info Regard, I will order the tool and clips so when I get back home next month I can do it. I must say that I suspected that it was going to be a PITA. Think I will put thread locker on all bolts while I am at it too. Hmmm maybe Dynamat too, never want to have to take it off again. Defender 110 "Huberta"
Post #297893 11th Jan 2014 7:33pm
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Regard



Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: RSA
Posts: 251

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey
I was about to sugest just that........

I sound proofed my whole truck the other day, that is why I can tell you exactly what to do Rolling Eyes

And now I also know exactly who you are.....there are not a lot of "Huberta's" around. Whistle

Ps...to remove the headlining you will really need to man-handle it. The front part is very easy but the middle and rear parts will need to be bend. When you remove it, bend it in the middle (basically pulling the middle part down so that you can get the sides out of the roof's internal "gutter"). If done only once this should not cause any damage and if you have the new clips the headlining will sit nice and flush again afterwards.

Pps....just be careful when removing the headlining, you will get a face full of alu drill shavings and possibly half the screws will fall in your face too Rolling Eyes Mine had both A-pillar screws laying loose on the headlining.........
Post #297989 12th Jan 2014 1:31am
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