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the wiring side I will run through a carling switch 
on the soon to be ordered cubby from Matt at FCX!
| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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I'd be tempted to take a feed from the rear heated screen to switch on the mirrors, which is how most regular cars seem to work. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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11th Sep 2013 9:20am |
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| d j hutton Member Since: 30 Jul 2009 Location: Dorset Posts: 1044  
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Have a word with matt at fcx - he's installed them on the 130 , and not having seen any cabling I'd say it was a tidy job
I think there is a post showing how it was done somewhere, through a hole in the hinge IIRC.. DJ 1989 200tdi 90 csw 2011 110 usw Orkney grey Buy British 🇬🇧 Defender Clothing Designs available at http://www.rangesports.com/acatalog/Defender-Stuff.html |
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11th Sep 2013 9:21am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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There are a number of threads on here already regarding fitment of heated mirrors but sheer laziness on my part prevents me from searching and posting links to them for you. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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11th Sep 2013 9:22am |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Installation can be done in a number of ways, some easier than others.
The easiest is to run the cable externally along the mirror arm (cable tied on) and then loop it in under the bonnet. The neatest (as we've done on the FCX 130) is to run the cable (starting mirror end) down through a hole that you drill in the 'ball' at the end of the mirror arm, this brings the cable into the hollow under the arm (it can be siliconed in place when you've finished), then through a hole drilled into the 'tube' that can be seen when you remove the bottom cap and top bung. The clever bit is then drilling a second hole into the tube from the door hinge side (through the internal spring - it can be done). You then need to drill a hole through the door hinge and then through the door BUT make sure it is behind the part of the door hinge that is flat with the door. There are a few pictures on my 130 build here: http://defender2.net/forum/topic15815-150.html Page 11 Forgot to add, once the cables are in the door you need to run them out through the rubber tube that the electric windows / locking run through and ideally use a waterproof connector so that the door could be removed if required. This brings the cables into the bulkhead. Unfortunately there is no hole through to the inside of the cab from here, you need to take the cables up to a grommet that is at the top of the bulkhead engine side - it's not so bad passenger side but difficult to get to on the drivers side |
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11th Sep 2013 9:29am |
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| dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 
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Go Beyond
have more detailed photos of this? I don't understand the internal structure of the door and I want "copy" your solution  Click image to enlarge Like this my (horrible) sketch? Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition
IID Pro MV License |
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11th Sep 2013 9:36am |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Hi dgardel,
Firstly, thank you for the ideas you sent me, I'll look into them when I get a spare moment 
Unfortunately I don't have any further pictures. Once the cables are in the door, routing them within the door is quite obvious with the door panel removed. This isn't a job for the faint hearted, not that is is particularly complicated but it is time consuming and 'awkward' |
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11th Sep 2013 12:16pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5889 
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and made a bit more awkward by not having doors with cable exit holes for Electric windows etc already.
Povo doors with manual locks and manual windows controls!  1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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11th Sep 2013 1:33pm |
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| Hock Member Since: 12 Sep 2011 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 131 
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now that would be a handy modification for winter!
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11th Sep 2013 1:40pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1956  
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Cheers matt that is the best method I have seen, i am not a great fan of cables or holes on show, what elements did you use and are they still going strong?
May be easier to buy your awesome 130 off you lol 2023 Defender L663 V8 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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11th Sep 2013 6:54pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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I used the Mud ones, they seem fine.
Funny enough a guy asked me what I'd take for the 130 at Peterborough and to be honest I didn't have a clue ! |
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11th Sep 2013 7:03pm |
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| Nobby Member Since: 09 Aug 2012 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 444 
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Bear 100, thanks for the Thread, spent yesterday searching and couldn't find a hidden cable route. Yours has prompted replies which have answered my questions.
Matt thanks for answering and providing the link as your solution is brilliant, will have a look at copying you. Assuming no infringement of copy right  I have an arm I have just removed so will have a practice with that with the drill. _______________________________
Puma Defender 90 |
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11th Sep 2013 8:01pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Go for it
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11th Sep 2013 8:40pm |
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| boode Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: Devon Posts: 434 
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An alternative to drilling into the door is to run the cable from under the door hinge through the door pillar and straight into the dash.
The cable goes through the ball in the mirror, under the grove in the mirror arm, into the swivel joint, out of the plastic cap at its base and into the base of the hinge - then through into the bulkhead next to the dash. Sounds complicated but is straight forward. Jake at Devon 4x4 had an excellent thread on their forum showing how he had done his. I copied his ideas and it looks very neat and is easy to do. The post was called "Overland 110 Build" in the vehicle projects thread - the post is still there but with no pictures. I am sure Jake would forward or re instate the pictures if asked. The post number is 82219. |
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11th Sep 2013 10:07pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Can you see the cable ?
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12th Sep 2013 6:07am |
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