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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092   
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No, regulator isn't oil fed. it only leaks "out" (over the starter/bellhousing joint/clutch
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Oil sump rise is generally head crack. Is it an early 10P engine? these tend to go more than the later ones. |
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10th Sep 2013 4:27pm |
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| Trossachs turbo Member Since: 14 Jul 2012 Location: Perthshire Posts: 21  
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Thanks Jim, a later engine, will monitor.runs really well and torque etc all good.I was a bit sloppy when I did the last service and have taken more care this time
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10th Sep 2013 4:32pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092
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Could be you just overfilled last time? (although even the best engine would use a little oil I'd have though?)
I had a leaking regulator. I tried one of the £10 seal kits off eblag, and touch-wood, it's stayed leak free so far, couple of thousand miles down the road. |
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10th Sep 2013 5:05pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Would you not be able to smell diesel in the oil??
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10th Sep 2013 6:49pm |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 29 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85 
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Did you check the injector seats for cleanliness and clean as appropriate? Fuel leakage is also likely if the sealing O rings do not get changed or get damaged on injector fitting. Cheap O rings are never that great a saving on these engines, better to put the genuine items in, and do the job once!! Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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10th Sep 2013 6:51pm |
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| MadTom Member Since: 10 Sep 2013 Location: Olomouc Posts: 622  
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Older Euro 2 engines (10P) have less problem with head fractures and diesel leaking into oil, then the newer Euro 3 engines (15P). The problem of newer engines is moddified head with thinner part holding the injector inside, so it can easily crack. It is a design fail, but now it is possible to buy a new upgraded head. I have seen some 2004 Discovery 2 with this problem.
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1st Oct 2013 8:11pm |
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| austinhealey55 Member Since: 09 Sep 2013 Location: Lusaka, Zambia Posts: 24 
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I've noticed when checking my oil that the Td5 is quite sensitive to the angle it's sitting at. As I remember the dipstick sits in the front right section of the oil pan, so if the car is on a slight downhill and leaning a bit to the right it will read high. I always make sure to park it on a level area to check the oil now (after changing the sump gasket and seeing where the dipstick reads I now know this).
Also you can do the "paper towel" test that I've heard works to test the oil for diesel. Google 'paper towel diesel oil' and you'll see the way to do it -- basically just a drop of oil onto a paper towel. Not sure how accurate it is but it may give you an idea. The theory is that the diesel will separate from the oil, leaving an outer ring of diesel and an inner ring of oil. Another option would be a oil analysis. I've found companies in the states that will send you a free container/mailer and to send it off to be analyzed, there may be something similar where you live too. Also I bought a fuel regulator rebuild kit from kms001 on ebay and got the Bosch regulator part no. 0280160575. Rebuilt mine, not too bad to do and has worked well. That Bosch part has an extra little drain pipe on it that doesn't affect anything, I actually put a small piece of hose off of the drain so if it was to drain, it wouldn't do so onto the tranny/clutch etc. |
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5th Oct 2013 12:50pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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I've just changed my FPR for an ebay bargain, it came off an 2006 build 15p engine as after a couple of reseal kits the valve itself began to leak. If you think you have issues with diesel filling the sump you will definately smell diesel when you take the rocker cover off to do my injector rockers and seals but as mentioned above there can be noticable differences with dip stick levels at different angles. I try to.check mine after standing overnight especially as it is parked in the same position and when the seals were leaking you could see a definate rise over a couple of days.
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5th Oct 2013 1:31pm |
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| v8bobber Member Since: 26 Aug 2012 Location: pembrokeshire Posts: 445 
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I was under the impression that it was the other way around. The older heads had the diesel return pipe in the head and it was this thin material that lead to the head cracking internally and the diesel leaking into the sump. The later 15p E3 engines had an external fuel rail which negated the thinness of the material in the head. I did a fair bit of research into this because I put a later 15p engine in a "10p" vehicle. There's lots of differences including stuff like higher pressure injectors , head, and piston design. Dave |
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5th Oct 2013 11:31pm |
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