 | Home > Technical > A question for the gearbox/clutch experts out there....... |
 
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189   
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Could be a worn syncro. How old is the oil? My 300 was sticky when I bought it but nice and smooth after an oil change. BM52
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3rd Sep 2013 3:48pm |
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| hxk494 Member Since: 29 Apr 2013 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 239
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Unfortunately no idea regards the age of the oil.
That was going to be my next step - change the oil and see if it makes any difference. 1996 300Tdi Defender 110 |
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3rd Sep 2013 8:40pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17383 
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I would never put a box in gear on a stationary vehicle immediately after depressing the clutch - always wait for the innards to stop spinning first.
Doesn't sound like there's anything wrong with your 'box. |
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3rd Sep 2013 9:38pm |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 29 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85  
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I have also had this recently on my 110 1998 Tdi. I had the clutch out for another reason, and was hoping that this would have been fixed as a bonus, but sadly the problem is slightly worse now with the new clutch kit.
I know that my oil is good; I checked the level whilst I had good access through the (missing) centre tunnel cover, and the oil is changed every 24months or 12,000miles regardless. What I am thinking of doing is to go away from an ATF type oil, and find a decent MTF that works for the R380. Has anyone had any good experiences of a particular variety of MTF? I have done lots of Rover car boxes that were obstructive, but not really looked into the LR R380 options until now. Redline MTF is expensive, but I have fixed a couple of PG1's with it. Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads. |
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4th Sep 2013 10:54pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
I got the impression that "they all do that sir" if there isn't a slight lurch forward/crunch going into first then it wasn't ticked as an option from the dealer,lol.
Regards to wot oil,again from wot I have read, ATF makes the box smoother but MTF protects it better??your choice of manufacturer is rather limited for mtf94, Landrover being one of them, also being unusually cheap(ish).Texaco seem to make it but isn't easy to get hold of. As someone said, push the gear leaver across then hesitate for a second before pushing the gear leaver forward. |
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6th Sep 2013 11:10am |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 29 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85
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I am going to have a play with some different ATF's first and see if any difference ensues. The gearchange seems to improve slightly as the oil warms, which would point to a slight drag in the input shaft being the problem. The clutch mechanism is all new, so it might take a few miles to settle down. The gearbox itself has an impeccable feel into all the gears when the engine is off, and the syncromeshes are strong enough to go into any of the gears without a graunch, it's just a bit obstructive when the oil is cold.
The upside of this is that the gearchange through the R230 Tx box is improved at crawling speed, possibly a bit of light drive through the box is helping to align the Tx gears when the output shaft is near-stationary.  Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads. |
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7th Sep 2013 1:10pm |
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| landyman37 Member Since: 22 Jan 2012 Location: west midlands Posts: 153 |
Try putting it into another gear first to slow the main shaft down then into first if it is ok then you are looking at a worn synchro.
Phil |
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9th Sep 2013 11:09am |
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| Skye_Rover Member Since: 29 Aug 2013 Location: Skye Posts: 85
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Phil,
There's a bit of improvement by slowing the gears down on the other synchro units, but it's not the whole story. I suspect that if the root causes of the drag can be dealt-with, the (weaker) synchros on 1st and R will be covered-up. Ever the optimist......  Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads. |
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10th Sep 2013 7:04pm |
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| Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 617 
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I have a similarly aged 110 that does the same.
I find I have to anticipate moving away from a stop intraffic by dropping the clutch maybe 4 or 5 seconds before putting the box in gear, otherwise I get a horrendous grinding noise. My gearbox is in dire need of a refurb, so I was hoping that would fix it. If it is likely ot be a clutch fault, that would be good to know before the gearbox change. |
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10th Sep 2013 8:36pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1579 
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Not sure if I am giving the right advice here but,
Is it worth checking the master and slave cylinders to make sure they are working. If they aren't clearing the clutch properly then this could cause a crunch. Then move to a fluid change in the box, has it been changed recently? Then new clutch if that doesn't work changing the oil seals at the same time. But I'd start with the hydrolics first. |
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10th Sep 2013 9:44pm |
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