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EddieB

Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
Location: Durham
Posts: 57

1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi PU Firenze Red

Suspension Advice Re: Articulation

Hi there, just after some collective knowledge from experience! My Hicap has what I think to be a Britpart supergaz 2' lift, cranked radius arms. It Didn't come with dislocation cones on the rear but I added these after the spring unseated at a p+p day. What I'd like to know is what can I do to increase axle articulation? Is it just the dampers that are limiting how much movement the axle has? oh and what particular dampers/parts would you recommend?

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16th Aug 2013 10:30pm

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green

Dampers, trailing arms (yes they are cranked but RJ would be even better), anti-roll-bar if you hve one and brake lines.

Gwyn Lewis is a good start- normal kits have a 5" extension over standard from what I recall. Having a 2" lift and 2" extended shocks doesn't really give you much more articulation.

Other option which I have been hearing good things about is RAC parts's twister kit.

Please remember to get extended brake lines- My Gwyn Lewis ones came through the post yesterday, beautifully crafted pieces of kit

. - If you don't do this you will just rip your brake lines when you go full articulation with longer shocks.

*Edit* Forgot to say..... Lovely looking truck you have there

Glyn

16th Aug 2013 11:46pm

EddieB

Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
Location: Durham
Posts: 57

Thanks a lot for the advice Glyn, I seaeched RAC parts on Facebook and they make a few tasty bits! What do you mean by
'RJ' when referring to trailing arms? Not sure if what I have would allow such articulation as permitted by the rac twister kit or whether I would need wide angle uj's etc. I take on board what you say about brake lines though. Ive heard many good things about Gwyn Lewis, and having spoken to him on the phone when ordering my relocation cones, he was very helpful. After a bit of research I've also come across the d44 kit with king dampers, what a piece of kit!

17th Aug 2013 8:16pm

Landy-Novice

Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 118

Quote:
'RJ' when referring to trailing arms?

rose jointed trailing arms. allows more flex without giving the bushes a hard time.

18th Aug 2013 12:45am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5871

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

As above. Gwyn Lewis kit is good and tested, even improved my road handling.

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Andy

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19th Aug 2013 9:17am

EddieB

Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
Location: Durham
Posts: 57

landy andy wrote:
As above. Gwyn Lewis kit is good and tested, even improved my road handling.

Click image to enlarge

Andy

Great pic! I see you have the damper relocation brackets and relocation cones, what dampers are you using? Are you running standard props etc?

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19th Aug 2013 11:46am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5871

I am using Old Man Emu dampers, and standard front prop, but a Bailey Morris rear prop, although this was fitted before this kit, not because of it.

The clever bit of this kit is that even though the dampers are 11" longer than standard, compression of the opposing wheel is still greater than standard, or most other kits.

Click image to enlarge

Andy

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19th Aug 2013 11:58am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5871

I am also running the heaviest springs that are sold with the kit as a I can carry very heavy kit, with softer springs and a different mount hole used for the dampers, the kit articulates even more.

Andy

19th Aug 2013 12:02pm

johnszs

Member Since: 16 Aug 2010
Location: Hereford
Posts: 459

2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Alveston Red

Very tasty andy

it looks like you have changed the trailing arms too? 2004 TD5 Defender 90 xs station wagon

21st Aug 2013 9:25pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5871

I have been asked the spec of my suspension via pm, but thought I might as well put here as others may be interested.

Mine is Gwyn Lewis full challenge kit. Apart from I did not fit his bailey Morris props as front prop on a Td5 is very good with massive uj's, and the rear one I had already changed. Brake pipes I had also changed before.

I went for OME dampers, and springs, and they are great. The hole kit was simple to fit, came with clear instructions, and all the required nuts and bolts. Mine is a 1" lift, with great articulation, but mate of mine is running the same kit with 3" lift and softer springs and his articulates much more than mine. But is less stable on the road.

I sometimes wish the rear was softer, but this is due to carrying less, on the road it's great and off road it's superb. It allows you to takle obstacles with care as you need less momentum, and is much more stable when dropping in to something, or crossing an axle twister, as there is less time the wheels are unsupported.

http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page56a.html

I have had one bracket break, but Gwyn bent over backward to sort, at his own cost.

The only thing I would do different is fit it sooner, and never fit terrafirma suspension.

Andy

21st Aug 2013 11:06pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20761

How does a lift kit and Puma come off with it's mechanics? I heard (possibly mis-informed) that anything more than a 2" lift is not a good idea at all on a Puma due to the gearbox or transfer box or some reason along those lines. (possible something that's adjusted out of position into one it shouldn't be in) Is this true? WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸
⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

21st Aug 2013 11:11pm

bpman

Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

custom90steve wrote:
How does a lift kit and Puma come off with it's mechanics? I heard (possibly mis-informed) that anything more than a 2" lift is not a good idea at all on a Puma due to the gearbox or transfer box or some reason along those lines. (possible something that's adjusted out of position into one it shouldn't be in) Is this true?

Interesting question Steve, when I had 2" lowered springs on my ice edition I was getting a vibration at 100kmh up to about 110kmh, put std springs back on and all ok, could be the same for lifting

22nd Aug 2013 7:24am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5871

I know that Gwyn advises that the Tdci's are not lifted or lowered more than 1" due to causing vibration.

Andy

22nd Aug 2013 8:57am

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6772

bpman wrote:
custom90steve wrote:
How does a lift kit and Puma come off with it's mechanics? I heard (possibly mis-informed) that anything more than a 2" lift is not a good idea at all on a Puma due to the gearbox or transfer box or some reason along those lines. (possible something that's adjusted out of position into one it shouldn't be in) Is this true?

Interesting question Steve, when I had 2" lowered springs on my ice edition I was getting a vibration at 100kmh up to about 110kmh, put std springs back on and all ok, could be the same for lifting

Did you have the wheel alignment done after you changed the suspension? Most people don't but with any change of suspension you should get a full 4 wheel alignment (although not not all camber/castor etc is adjustable) because any slight change can make a big difference in tracking, camber and castor.

22nd Aug 2013 10:35am

bpman

Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

mk1collector wrote:
bpman wrote:
custom90steve wrote:
How does a lift kit and Puma come off with it's mechanics? I heard (possibly mis-informed) that anything more than a 2" lift is not a good idea at all on a Puma due to the gearbox or transfer box or some reason along those lines. (possible something that's adjusted out of position into one it shouldn't be in) Is this true?

Interesting question Steve, when I had 2" lowered springs on my ice edition I was getting a vibration at 100kmh up to about 110kmh, put std springs back on and all ok, could be the same for lifting

Did you have the wheel alignment done after you changed the suspension? Most people don't but with any change of suspension you should get a full 4 wheel alignment (although not not all camber/castor etc is adjustable) because any slight change can make a big difference in tracking, camber and castor.

I only changed the rear springs to enable me into the underground car park, so no changes to the front set up. But to answer your question, no I did not have tracking or anything else changed,when the std springs reinstalled, all ok again.

22nd Aug 2013 10:47am

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