 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Replacement lock barrel. |
 
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| achuakh Member Since: 12 Apr 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 158   
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Slam locking has been disable from the td5 onwards, for those with cdl and alarm.
The 10as will unlock the doors when it detects this situation of holding the button n pressing the door lock n closing the doors. Unless you have an aftermarket door master lock interfaced with the 10as, it won't happen. From the land of the most expensive land rover defenders on planet earth. At �125k for a XS 110 csw and you get to own it only for 10yrs! Please find me a good reason to stay on this island. |
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7th Aug 2013 10:43am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344  
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This works on the Freelander (or so I am told) but doesn't work on a Defender or anything else with a Lucas 10AS alarm controller. If you do this, the volumetric sensors will still be active and the alarm will sound if there's movement in the car. There are three ways to lock a vehicle with a 10AS, central locking, and both perimetric and volumetric sensors, namely:- 1) Lock with plip - immobiliser and alarm are set, and both the perimetric and volumetric sensors are operative. Opening a door etc, or any movement in the car will set off the alarm. 2) Lock door with key - immobiliser is set, alarm is not set, neither the perimetric nor volumetric sensors are operational. Opening a door etc, movement in the car, breaking a window etc will not set off the alarm. This is the method LR recommend if pets or people are to be left in the car. 3) Lock with plip before shutting driver's door, then shut door after 'mislock' beep - immobiliser is set, and the alarm is set with perimetric detection only since the mislock condition disables the volumetric sensor. Opening a door will set of the alarm, but movement in the car will not. Ideal for pets (and possibly children) since the alarm won't sound unless a door is opened. It is important to remember that it you lock a Defender with the key, the alarm is not set at all. The issue of the driver's door lock barrel seizing up with lack-of-use is evidently a common one. Mine did exactly the same thing, and eventually (after buying but not fitting a new door lock barrel, steering colum lock, complete with new keys) I was able to free it off using WD40 and a lot of gentle manipulation. I not try to make sure that at least once a month I lock the car with the key in order to keep it free. Since starting this regime, I have had no further problems with it. New lock barrels for both the door and column locks are available readily, but getting a new barrel to fit your existing key takes ages. Removng the steering column lock (at least doing it the right way in order to fit a new one, rather than pikeying the lock barrel out with a slide hammer) is difficult and time consuming. |
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7th Aug 2013 10:54am |
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| capnjapseye Member Since: 21 Feb 2015 Location: Cornwall Posts: 223 
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Once again, the forum to the rescue ..... Just fixed my 2010 Defender drivers door key lock operation, lots of 3 in 1 oil & perseverance. 2015 90 Hard Top
1998 90 300Tdi - chuffed to have another one 2013 Freelander 2 - for posher trips to the shop 1996 300 Tdi 90 Hard Top - sold 19th June 2020 - miss it, loved it 2016 90 Hard Top - demolished Nov 2019 by young driver 3.5 times over the drug limit 2010 90 Hard Top - now sold Ex mil 90 - now sold Last edited by capnjapseye on 7th Feb 2016 9:38am. Edited 1 time in total |
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6th Feb 2016 2:57pm |
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| alastaid Member Since: 03 Dec 2013 Location: York Posts: 78
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Chris,
I had the same issue, and put oil in it for ages, I then realised it was the out key cover (the bit of metal with the slot in it, not the barrel) that wasn't moving. So I put a big screwdriver just into the slot, and gently got it moving, and hey presto it freed up, worth a try as you may have the same issue I did. Cheers Alastair |
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6th Feb 2016 5:48pm |
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