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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
x-isle wrote:
Everyone will have their own view, but if used correctly and the nuts remain torqued up, there should be no issues.

I used to race under MSA rules (albeit circuit racing) and we used spacers quite often to give a wider axle on the back.

The only MSA ruling at the time was we had to change the studs so that there was enough thread to be able to correctly/safely torque the nuts. The correct torque ensures that the load is spread against the faces of the wheel, hub and spacer and not the actual nuts and studs.


I assume from this you were actually using a "spacer" which goes over the original studs like a big washer and you fit extended studs to compensate ?

The "spacers" supplied for Land Rovers are normally not just a spacer, more of an adaptor - the adaptor bolts to the original studs and has it's own offset studs for the wheel to bolt to. This design means that there is no direct connection between the hub and the wheel and often some quite thin material left in the spacer/adaptor in places where it is milled away to allow the nuts holding it on to be below the level of the spacer.

There is also no way of checking the tightness of the inner nuts without removing the wheel. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #254589 30th Jul 2013 10:39am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
You are correct, and that was my only concern as I already mentioned, that on the check list is checking the torque of the spacer nuts you have to remove the wheels to do so which is why it's recommended to put thread lock on them.

Spacers or Adapters, providing the "sandwich" affect of torqueing up the nuts is maintained, there should be no difference. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #254597 30th Jul 2013 11:00am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Lambley wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
x-isle wrote:
Good point Lambley.

Defo put threadlock on them! Thumbs Up


Why?

Do you also threadlock your wheelnuts?

No, the bolts on the spacers are fixed to the spacers from the inside, they are supposed to be fixed and are not supposed to be removed but can potentially come loose, so a dab of threadlock simply stops the bolts from loosening when the wheel nuts are tightened


Ok, thanks. I misunderstood your original post and thought you were advocating the use of threadlock on the nuts holding the spacers to the hubs.
Post #254631 30th Jul 2013 1:28pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1914

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
ummm Confused with all the above in mind would it be safer to use steel ones?

The main reason i want to fit them is to have a better turning circle especially for when towing my large caravan, they also look better and fill the arches that bit more, i like my boost alloys and don't really want to change them
i have altered the stop nuts as much as possible but its still not quite right,
Thumbs Up 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
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Post #254639 30th Jul 2013 2:08pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If you opt for good-quality aluminium alloy spacers from a reputable manufacturer (recommend Rakeway as mentioned above) you will have no problems.
Post #254692 30th Jul 2013 4:32pm
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Egghead



Member Since: 25 Nov 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 255

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
I use these: Terrafirma 30mm aluminium billet wheel spacers

Single billet aluminium and a brilliantly simple to use locating spigot. They are not the cheapest but with something like this I didn't want to compromise. Much more play in the turning circle (She can spin on her nose now) and the tyres still fit within the wheel arches so no problems with Mr Plod or MOT failures.

Can't tell you if these are TUV approved - not applicable to me as the only scrutineering I ever face is how many beers the wife can find out I've had when I've been to the pub. Perhaps somebody can confirm TUV approval or not?

Hope this helps.
Post #255291 1st Aug 2013 2:00pm
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