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RebeccaHacking



Member Since: 23 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 1

Defender handbrake
Hello,
We have a 2012 defender 90, great car perfect for what we do (sheep farming and horses). I have noticed that once or twice the handbrake casing has got hot whilst I have been towing with it, and on Saturday after travelling 45mins to a horse competition, parking landrover and trailer on a small incline and putting the handbrake on, 45 minutes later the whole thing rolled backwards, causing the trailer to jack knife and considerable damage to the back door of the defender. Someone jumped in to stop it and get t the handbrake but it was already on fully.

Has anyone else any experience of the defender handbrake failing?

Thanks Rebecca
Post #253249 23rd Jul 2013 1:24pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
It's difficult to know if the heat you've felt is normal or not, the hand brake is mounted on the back of the gearbox and the lever is connected to that so they can get warm when towing or on the motorway etc... It could well be that is unconnected with the handbrake not working.

Normally if the handbrake goes on correctly in the first place then it will not come off again on it's own. It's design makes that pretty much impossible. However, it does use a manual adjuster which allows you to adjust the bite and take up any slack or allow for any wear in the shoes. It's possible for the handbrake to feel as if it's been applied but actually hasn't. A vehicle parked like that with minimal or no hand brake might take a while to start moving on it's own.

When we scrutineer Land Rovers for competitions the scrutineers always check the hand brake operation on a slope to check that the hand brake not only feels OK but is actually doing something ! The cause for it failing that test is nearly always bad adjustment.

It may just be that your hand brake needs adjusting but it's also worth checking for signs of oil, often drips forming on the bottom of the hand brake drum, that might indicate an oil leak into the brake drum from the back of the gearbox.

The hand brake is actually a transmission brake and in that respect it works and feels different to a hand brake in a car. It's possible that the heat you describe has been caused by the drums binding due to the handbrake lever not being released fully or sticking due to being full of mud. If that is the case then the binding may have worn the shoes down and it needs to be adjusted to compensate. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #253257 23rd Jul 2013 1:51pm
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JR



Member Since: 07 Dec 2012
Location: Auchtermuchty
Posts: 532

Scotland 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi SW Coniston Green
I'm an BORDA Occupational Off Road Instructor, we always train people to use 2 forms of braking with the gearbox as the primary brake.

When you stop, select 1st or reverse as the gear OPPOSITE the direction of gravitational travel, switch off engine and release feet from clutch & footbrake to allow the vehicle to settle in gear, THEN apply the handbrake last as the secondary brake.

If you take a trailer B+E test you have to leave the gearbox in neutral and rely on the handbrake alone but do you want to rely on 1 brake drum to hold 3.5 tonnes of trailer and potentially 2.5-3.0 tonnes of Land Rover on a steep hill; I don't! Embarassed
Post #253278 23rd Jul 2013 2:42pm
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Pam W



Member Since: 25 Oct 2011
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1169

England 1998 Defender 90 Td5 SW Auto Oslo Blue
JR wrote:

When you stop, select 1st or reverse as the gear OPPOSITE the direction of gravitational travel, switch off engine and release feet from clutch & footbrake to allow the vehicle to settle in gear, THEN apply the handbrake last as the secondary brake.


When I learned to drive in 1983 it was standard instruction to leave the car in gear with the hand brake on (ordinary driving, not off-road as such). I don't actually own a manual car these days, we are all auto in our household, but even so, when I do occasionally get back into a manual (say a hire or courtesy car) then it is still second nature to leave it in gear with the hand brake on.... and as such, to dip the clutch and take it out of gear on when starting it up again.

I thought everyone did that, but maybe not!! Shocked
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Yorkshire Off Road Club - http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net
Post #253285 23rd Jul 2013 3:12pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17378

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I believe that it is still a legal requirement, although I cannot readily find any evidence.
Post #253309 23rd Jul 2013 5:07pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20359

United Kingdom 
^^^ I agree with above, it's a part of the driving test still that you are expected to do to this day for a car test so if for a car test with a trailer will be the same. Along with kerbed areas aligning the wheels to the appropriate direction into the kerb to further prevent this kind of thing. If nothing like a kerb is available then on say a sloped area that is open chocking the wheels would be a good idea. Especially with a trailer to the rear. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #253369 23rd Jul 2013 9:12pm
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1916

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Just an option Simon at Xeng makes a disk hand brake conversion and wil hold a 1:1 slope!
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Post #254470 29th Jul 2013 8:30pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
all useful replies but I'd still be interested to know why the hand brake has given way to gravity.

maybe it was just all too much (the trailer, slope etc) but if was holding and then slipped / released I'd been real keen to know why - granted it should have been in gear etc but that doesn't mean the handbrake releasing is ok?

ever get to the bottom of it - oil on the drum / contamination?
Post #254472 29th Jul 2013 8:36pm
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