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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444  
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If you used LED bulbs you could piggy back it as the draw would still be lower than the incandescent bulb as standard. If you used standard bulbs you'd have to give it a dedicated power supply.
 No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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30th Jun 2013 11:55am |
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| ginjez Member Since: 18 Sep 2011 Location: huddersfield Posts: 1763 
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Thanks Steve, with mine being a DC I'm wondering if the loom would be tucked away in the head lining to power the rear cargo area light on a 110 sw
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30th Jun 2013 12:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444
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There is only one way to find that out really.
 Either way what ever you do the head lining will have to come out or have some careful cable threading to do. No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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30th Jun 2013 12:21pm |
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| Innuendomaster Member Since: 29 Mar 2013 Location: South East Posts: 230
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There's nothing else behind the headlining in my MY10 DC, just the supply for the front lining light.
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30th Jun 2013 12:40pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20444
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In that case I would piggyback it from the front but make sure you use LED bulbs in there to prevent possible overload.
Perhaps in the rear use just a LED light not the LR unit and that can be switched via the front light. Otherwise you will have it double switched. No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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30th Jun 2013 12:42pm |
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| landybehr Member Since: 17 Apr 2013 Location: -D- Posts: 173 |
I can transmit the info, someone posted on a local forum only a while ago.
He says the wires that run from between the two standard lights are routed very much in a direct line. If you carefully cut a hole into the headlining chances are high that it is possible to catch the wires and connect a third light to them. I managed to find some nice LED lights. IIRC they need to be 39mm length to easily fit and hold properly tight. Real plugดnดplay. They even fade out like with the original (though they flicker a little then, but not that it hurts  ). I think itดs not bad there is less current flowing - and less heat.
Look like this one: http://bilder2.eazyauction.de/everybady16/...096_eA.jpg Most of them a very "white" white. Sometimes itดs called xenon-white. I prefer a "warmer", more yellow white, just like the original bulbs. I had to search a while to find them on ebay. |
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30th Jun 2013 8:53pm |
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| Inigo Member Since: 13 Nov 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 617 
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I took power from the rear light but made the lights either side locally switchable. They don't come on when the door opens, but can be used as reading lights or for the kids to look for stuff in the second row.
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30th Jun 2013 8:59pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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Yep I've done it, I got another LR interior light assembly to match the other 2, cut a hole out in the headlining, found the three wires running to the rear light and just joined the new light in. It works exactly the same as the others and when I put leds in, 6led ones in the front 2 and a pad of IIRC 48 in the back, it can allmost be too bright inside and I'll often switch the front one by the interior mirror off. Why oh why they don't come standard like this I will never know
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30th Jun 2013 9:00pm |
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