 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Supaguard or not on new Defender? |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Let's face it with Puma colour coat and lacquer finish as thin and fragile as it is in theory every little helps but those prices are a rip off. You would be better off with regular washing and diy waxing - as for 'detailing' a Defender
 Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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26th May 2013 9:29pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748  
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Nothing wrong with looking after something thats probably cost you £30k, and it will make future cleaning really easy. |
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26th May 2013 9:33pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Very true and of course I look after my vehicles, ensure they are serviced to manufacturers specs at specified intervals and wash / clean them regularly  Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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26th May 2013 9:46pm |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748
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Just make sure you dirty them properly inbetween washes.  |
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26th May 2013 9:53pm |
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| diggers1981 Member Since: 30 May 2013 Location: East Sussex Posts: 12 
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I would not go for this, although the product is good, you can pay a lot less money for it, I would say a full interior and exterior kit would set you back about £75 from Autosmart and then you could either apply it yourself or get a Valeting company to do it for you. Have you also though about the underside of the vehicle, Dinitrol treatments are good and keep the rust away, a much better treatment to waxoyl or thats what I think anyways.
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30th May 2013 11:30am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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How much is a respray? I am seriously considering this (loads of scratches already). Surely thicker paint can't hurt
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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30th May 2013 11:38am |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3372
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I'm in the save yer money camp, spend the cash on decent tyres
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30th May 2013 11:39am |
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| Egghead Member Since: 25 Nov 2012 Location: Surrey Posts: 255 
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500 quid! Spikes in Lancashire do 4x4s for £120
Might be worth shopping around as it looks a long trip for you. |
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30th May 2013 2:37pm |
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| lukev01 Member Since: 24 Mar 2012 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 412 
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Thanks for all responses.
I will definitely be getting it Waxoyled as soon as I can after delivery......Killer, you are close to me, so I will contact you nearer the time once I have a delivery date. Still not sure about the paint/interior protection, though. I do want to keep it as good as possible since it will be my first ever new car  but the cost  puts me off.
Are there any places near me (Bedfordshire) that could do it after-market for less? Or do I hope for some good weather in September and DIY it? 1970 Series 2A 88" |
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30th May 2013 5:35pm |
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| sewin elwy Member Since: 08 Aug 2012 Location: Snowdonia Posts: 39 
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Supaguard is really great, it really will protect your paint finish and makes it easy to clean and return it to that just new finish.
I've had it on on 5 vehicle's now........but wait! don't buy it from the dealer, arrange it yourself through your local supaguard outlet. You will be able to select exactly what combination of products you want and you will get a far better application that will work better and last longer! All these dealers apply it themselves and they don't do that good a job. If you talk to supaguard thay will tell you this, how do I know! My first experience on a 110 at the dealer looked great.a year later and the roof was minging!!! flat as hell! didn't take much working out though did it! When the old girl is in the dealers and they clean it (ha ha!) they never clean the roofs do they!.....seems they don't treat the roof with supaguard either. Claimed on the supaguard warranty and they put it all right and explained why they did not like the main dealer franchises being able to treat your vehicle themselves. Now, If you look on ebay you will be able to source the product yourself.vvvv.cheap! ( my last one was £27.00) just make sure you are getting a genuine product( it comes in its own applicator sponge which you have to pearce and squeeze. Yes you might not prep the paint finish as well as the pro's but seeming as you LR aint that great a finish to start with it is still good enough. My current 110 XS is almost three years old and looks new, they will tell you it needs reprep treatment after three years but I had one for seven and it was still great! Verdict-- It is a great product and does exactly what they say it will but for goodness sake do it yourself! Its no harder than cleaning the car, infact its easier! wipe on----20 mins-----wipe off! Martin |
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3rd Jun 2013 11:57am |
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| Yetiman Member Since: 13 Aug 2010 Location: London Posts: 138
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Just moved from bedfordshire...sod's law eh?
Anyway, you can do it yourself for a fraction of the cost. All the previous advice about this is good. Even for a new vehicle a clay bar is worth using. Cars - even Defenders - come with all the fall out and dodgy chemical cleaners used by the factory and dealer. This will already have ingrained in the paint...so clay is my advice. However, claying can marr the paint so only use a gentle grade or, better still in my opinion, use a spray on liquid fallout remover. This should suffice for a new vehicle. After that I would avoid polish. Anything that takes a layer off an already thin paint and clearcoat covering is a bad idea unless really needed. I wouldn't advise this for the first couple of years at least. If you look after it, you may never need to polish. Instead use a paint cleanser. These chemically clean the paint but do not remove any layers of clearcoat etc. The best in my opinion is Werkstat Prime. Then use a long life sealant as a wax will just mean you end up waxing a large vehicle every couple of months to keep it topped up. Many to choose from and it's down to personal choice. Again for a Defender I tend to use a spray sealant such as Carpro Reload or Werkstat Acrylic for ease. Britemax also do some very good sealants with Extreme Elements being a stand out for me. Then just use correct wash and maintenance techniques and you'll be away. Feel free to PM me and I can talk you through the whole process - been doing it for a hobby and business for years. Cheers She's not old...just older |
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5th Jun 2013 2:51pm |
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| Froogle-Yorkshireman Member Since: 10 Jul 2010 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 350 
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As others have said it is a lot of money. However, every little helps in terms of topping up the micro thin protection it will roll out of Solihull with
My tip would be to wait until after you have had the Waxoyl done though. During that process you are likely to get some overspray onto the paintwork and the best way to remove that is with white spirit which will also damage the Supa Guard. Once the Waxoyl is done i would suggest that you get a local mobile valeter to do the equivalent of the Supa Guard. I looked into this a couple of years ago and got a quote for £200 including auto glym products. Proud owner 110 Utility XS Ex RR Sport HST V8 Ex Td5 90 |
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6th Jun 2013 9:31pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3784  
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IMHO, this stuff is a Dealer "ripoff" & a waste of money for something that you can do yourself for a fraction of the cost....and any interior "protection" is even less worthwhile.....I've had a bit of M.V. Dealership experience myself....and yeah, they love this sort of stuff because the margins are huge.
I've NEVER seen an exterior "protection" product that really worked, really "protected". In Australia, we get some really hot days..30/40C is common in the summer. We also have bird "poo". I have NEVER seen a product that will protect against bird poo that has been on a hot panel for a few hours...there's always some "etching", because the bird poo simply eats away the protectant...never seen any product that could stop it. My recommendation is just keep your car well polished, remove road grime etc asap, & you'll be right. Cheers, Pickles. |
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6th Jun 2013 10:22pm |
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