 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Supaguard or not on new Defender? |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347  
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How much? We had it done on a Navara brand new we had a couple of years ago. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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26th May 2013 11:30am |
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| lukev01 Member Since: 24 Mar 2012 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 412  
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Not sure of £ since my wife's FL2 came with it but I think it is £429 incl VAT? Not listed on LR website since it is a dealer fit. Might also be called Smartguard? 1970 Series 2A 88"
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26th May 2013 11:34am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347
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Price sounds about right to me the Navara was around £540 IIRC. The finish is perfect and is a high lustre wax and water beads. There is also various glass treatments applied to again beads up water and maintains a good clear glass all around with minimal wiper noise (none in reality)
Wheels are protected and so on... You'll likely also get a cleaning kit worth around £40 - £80 The finish I thought from ours lasted a good 2 years in prime condition after that it just needed some work done on it. Mainly wax top up. It really is a personal choice but if you don't you'll probably get it mucky off the showroom floor. 
 $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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26th May 2013 11:48am |
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| Alex1976 Member Since: 23 Jan 2013 Location: Buckingham Posts: 596
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I have had it on two previous cars, a Mitsubishi Shogun (sorry for swearing) and my Alfa Romeo GTV. I don't think it is worth the cost. All Supaguard does if give the paintwork a long lasting hard polish (and stainguards the interior). The same products can be easily bought from any decent car factors - even Halfords have a good range of detailing products.
As soon as you get it give it a really good wash and then get some really good polish and give it a couple of coats. You will end up with the same results (maybe even better) as if you are like me you will do it with more attention to detail and more care than any workshop would. I just give my Defender a total cut and polish twice a year and use Autoglym Super Resin Polish and it is top notch. |
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26th May 2013 11:50am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347
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Might be worth clay barring too? That is one thing I'm interested in doing. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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26th May 2013 12:02pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Clay barring takes off general road film so you shouldn't need to do that on a new car.
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26th May 2013 5:30pm |
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| rossy Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Co. Roscommon Posts: 1296  
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Luke its your money but I'd hang on to it. Supaguard falls firmly into the law of diminishing returns. A mate of mine was a Mazda salesman and often joked about getting easy silly money for a polish. IMHO get yourself a bottle of Autogleam high gloss protection and apply every six months. As MOG says 'its a utility vehicle dear'
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26th May 2013 5:33pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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I bought mine with it already on and it has been very good IMHO. But.....would I spend my own money on it...? BM52
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26th May 2013 5:46pm |
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| Gareth Member Since: 12 Dec 2011 Location: Bramhall Posts: 1102
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Supaguard is good, but the dealer is ripping you off. I just bought a new D4, and the dealer wanted £399 plus vat to do the job. I googled for an independent source, and found a company that would do the whole job, inside and out, including wheels, all done on my drive for £250 inc vat. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy 1968 S2a 88 aka Bob 2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged. |
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26th May 2013 5:52pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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Don't bother. You can do a better job yourself with some modern detailing products. My dad had a brand new Shogun superguarded and after a few years it looked dull as anything. The superguard layer also made it more difficult to get it looking decent again (despite my best efforts!). Have a look at some of the Bilt Hamber products, which is what I've been using lately. Get pretty good reviews and their clay bars are widely used because they don't need a special lubricant, which many do. Some people say it is worth claying a new car, as they still have paint contaminants from sitting around outside prior to being sold.
If you can be bothered, then I'd recommend going to town on it with some cleaning products as soon as possible - it will make the paint finish more durable and should help keep the dreaded oxidisation at bay for longer. I recently bought a set of new boost alloys and gave them a serious 'going over' with wax and alloy wheel sealant. They stood up to the winter extremely well and brake dust just rinses off with low pressure water. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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26th May 2013 5:52pm |
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006 
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I think i must be missing something here, detailing a defender? Why? Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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26th May 2013 6:25pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347
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Preserve value? Who'd want to buy a dirty dented or scratched nearly new Defender if it wasn't looked after properly? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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26th May 2013 7:31pm |
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| lambert.the.farmer Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: harrogate Posts: 2006
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Ah ok. I think i get that sort of. I think i might be more inclined to waxoyl the underneath personally. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
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26th May 2013 7:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20347
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Both would be ideal. Hope my last post didn't come across as a little off...
I am just trying to say if I went to look at a vehicle I would expect the paintwork to be in tip top condition and clean. If it looks uncared for it likely has been either worked hard or not so well cared for mechanically too. If it was actually commercially used say a 90 PU or used by a business then be it a farm or electricity board then that would explain it a little more if it wasn't clean.
Personally myself I'd go for Meguire's cleaning products I've been really impressed. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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26th May 2013 8:38pm |
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