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Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue

jst wrote:
if you have a gen MAF was it mapped to a gen one? although doesnt account for it being wrong prior.

so 60psi in the fuel line then?

can you not just borrow a ecu and see how it goes. injectors wont be matched but it will run.

As you say, doesn't account for before/after problem.

Indie LR dealer (Keith Gott, Alton) confirmed pressure OK, though i don't know what it was.

Also checked and ruled out clutch switch and hi-lo switch.

Don't know anyone with one to spare!

15th May 2013 1:37pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6124

Macpaul wrote:
diesel_jim wrote:
Everyone seems to have mentioned the obvious things to check, but regarding the ECU's, yes, you'll need either an NNN500020 or NNN000120 for your defender.

Either can be reflashed to defender settings.

With thanks to Pete @ Bell autos, he's advised for a 10P engine (not sure what yours is... at 2003 it's probably a 15P) but for 10P the standard fuelling files are:

you can use, on an eu2 (10P) engine, NNN500020 or NNN000120

with NNN000120, use STHLE022 & STTLP009 (euro defender non A/C)

with NNN500020, use STHLE022 & STTLP010 (euro defender non A/C)

Looking on my nanocom map wizard, for later defenders

NNN000120 use svlne007 & svtnp005 (euro defender)

NNN500020 use svlne007 & svtnp006 (euro defender)

There's a couple of NNN000120's on ebay at the moment, i'm watching one as I need one for the project90. currently at about £130 with 4 days to go, so expect about £200 ish.

Yes mine's a 15P but from what I gather from your post, the NNN000120 would be OK for that .....?

yes, the NNN000120 and NNN00050 are the superceded part numbers for all the defender ECUs

15th May 2013 1:40pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

PM Sent

15th May 2013 2:00pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

Macpaul wrote:

Fair question and just the sort of reply I might have made but I'd rather not say at this stage as he's not given up.

I'm just looking at worst case.

Not bothered WHO - Just WHY ?? A remap was highly unlikely to cure it !!

Check all the boost pipes for leaks, wear and delamination, and they are still fitted tight to intercooler etc. Been known to cause overboost without registering any faults. Also would be worth checking boost pressure whilst running

15th May 2013 2:46pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

Sorry, Barbel Jim I must have misread your earlier post. Thought you asked who!

I thought as did the tuner (obvs both in error) that a remap might fix it. I tried everything else by that point.

Immediately after the remap I thought it had cured it but, in reality, it had just lifted the performance overall without solving the problem.

Hoses have been taken off and checked. Boost in-running maxes at 1.3 bar on an OBD reader but a boost box is fitted which I am told dumps the signal the ECU would otherwise receive from the MAP at that pressure. And I've tried with the wastegate actuator rod backed right off, which presumably reduces max boost.

15th May 2013 3:13pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

so that would be around 9/10 threads showing on actuator rod ??

When it goes into limp mode, can you find any consistencies ? Dose it just cut out momentarily, or until you restart the ignition?

15th May 2013 3:21pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

barbel jim wrote:
so that would be around 9/10 threads showing on actuator rod ??

When it goes into limp mode, can you find any consistencies ? Dose it just cut out momentarily, or until you restart the ignition?

Not counted but I should think 9 or 10. Couldn't undo it any further.

It's not momentary and the weird thing is it's not full limp mode. I've had vehicles go into limp and it's not like that. Just flat, especially at lower revs. No event gets recorded as a fault either.

I need to pull over, turn off and restart to fix it.

15th May 2013 4:02pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

To run at 1.3bar you should have 9/10 threads showing. More = less boost
I use Alive s uprated MAF's as they cope better with the airflow, but in my experience what your describing sounds more electrical than mechanical. I would be leaning more on the tuner

Allegedly He is the expert, and promised you it would sort it out. If he is just a franchise for someone else then He needs to be using them to get this issue resolved. Again without being rude sounds more like he rides a horse and wears spurs.

The 2 tuners I trust who should be able to resolve this are Gary at Alive or Pete at BAS.

15th May 2013 4:30pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

Thinking (which is dangerous ) have you had the actuator rod set wound all the way up, as in no threads showing ?? If so the actuator could be weak, leading to underboost, not holding the wastegate shut whilst on tickover, but allowing to shut when turned off. Its a long shot but ........

15th May 2013 4:38pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

barbel jim wrote:
Thinking (which is dangerous ) have you had the actuator rod set wound all the way up, as in no threads showing ?? If so the actuator could be weak, leading to underboost, not holding the wastegate shut whilst on tickover, but allowing to shut when turned off. Its a long shot but ........

Interesting.

I've had the actuator at min, max and in the middle with different effects on the performance but still the same semi-limp effect. Well to be frank at min boost I couldn't tell, it was so soggy.

I've had a call today and the tuner is looking at it again on Friday so we'll see what happens.

I'm starting to think it needs an exorcism not a mechanic.

15th May 2013 4:48pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

Keep us informed, its how we all learn and hopefully help others

15th May 2013 4:53pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

Absolutely. Will do.

15th May 2013 5:10pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

Right.

Today the tuner did the 200-mile round trip to my house to look at my truck.

We did another Nanocom run but the thing still showed no faults, despite there obviously being problems.

Next he swapped my 2003 ECU for a later 2007 model with a standard map and we did another run. The thing immediately felt better, although he said some of this could down to it being the more modern ECU.

Step 3 was to put the remap file on the new ECU.

It is superb.

The ECU had obviously been the problem all along.

If I have a criticism it is that he hadn't (and still hasn't) driven my vehicle and I don't have enough experience to be able to compare what I had, with what I should have had. Also, he's quite difficult to get hold of......

However that said, there was no charge for the new ECU (despite its problems not being his fault) and a chat about suspension led to him giving me an anti-roll bar as well.

So I'm a happy customer and really pleased with how the thing goes now.

17th May 2013 6:21pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

Result then

17th May 2013 11:18pm

barbel jim

Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1432

Oh and welcome to the forum. Hope you stick around, loads of info and friendly bunch

18th May 2013 11:30am

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