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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Puma Transfer box - big nut loose/vibration
Recently had some serious vibration under load throughout speed range (except for one narrow speed of 70mph). Checked the u/js and no obvious play. However, the transfer box output flange to front prop had lot of play which I thought might be a knackered o/p bearing. Removed the front prop, had a look at the end of the transfer box shaft and the big nut and thought "I'm surprised that that nut didn't have a locking tab washer", locked the centre diff and drove it off to D44 to get it fixed.

So D44 advise that they have seen a few of these big nuts work loose (it is a nylok nut) as was the case on mine. Given I had driven across Spain with the vibration I decided to get the o/p bearing replaced as a precaution (it had a small amount of play too). The Nylok was done up and now it runs very smooth

Has anyone here had a similar problem? Does it occur frequently? Any fixes to solve
Post #232704 4th May 2013 8:13pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
What mileage did you first discover the vibration?
Post #232779 5th May 2013 8:11am
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
23k miles.....very slight - within 1000 more miles was quite noticeable - 2 weeks on Moroccan pistes may have accelerated matters
Post #232997 5th May 2013 9:09pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I've had a look at mine, 15,000 miles and no signs of movement.

Options: New nut and threadlock? or add to check list when greasing props ? It would be a pain to check each time, but before an overland trip it would be better to check at home rather than roadside.

How did the land rover fare with all the sand and dust ?
Post #233129 6th May 2013 4:37pm
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pope10001



Member Since: 15 Oct 2011
Location: Dulverton
Posts: 489

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Zermatt Silver
bpman,

The Tdci works really well in the sand. Obviously it gets everywhere, the main thing I do out here is increase the service period, completing a service every 6000km, clean and grease props more regularly.

To help with dust in the cabin I have got a D44 cabin filter on with a pollen filter instead of the standard.

If you need any specific info on desert preps etc drop me a line.

Regards,

Mark
Post #233134 6th May 2013 4:55pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
cheers Mark, I forgot you are the king of the deserts! ... are you missing the cold ?

here in the UK we are missing the sun, although today is the best day so far
Post #233145 6th May 2013 5:31pm
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pope10001



Member Since: 15 Oct 2011
Location: Dulverton
Posts: 489

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Zermatt Silver
I think I'm more like king of the desserts at the moment, the wife makes an awesome trifle!

Definitely not missing the cold! It's been quite cool here recently though only around 35C today. Off to the Pyrenees in July which should be nice.
Post #233167 6th May 2013 6:12pm
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
bpman wrote:
I've had a look at mine, 15,000 miles and no signs of movement.

Options: New nut and threadlock? or add to check list when greasing props ? It would be a pain to check each time, but before an overland trip it would be better to check at home rather than roadside.

How did the land rover fare with all the sand and dust ?


From the play in the flange when the nut is loose it is reasonably obvious - imagine the play to be the thickness of a feeler gauge 0.020" to give an example - check when greasing props (and checking them for play) - in my experience the play results in vibration so is noticeable. If it gets very bad suddenly then you can disconnect the front prop and still drive it home. I don't know if it has anything to do with total miles covered - it just seems to be able to come loose - bad design me thinks why couldn't they have used a tab-washer like everybody else?
Post #233604 7th May 2013 8:43pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Steve - is your truck engine modified ? Could it be increased torque? Or could it be a new trainee on the production line just not tightening them up enough? (IE just a bad batch)

I've not heard about this problem before, but it would be worth checking other forums: LR44, LRUK etc. I guess D44 torqued it to the correct setting, did they use threadlock as well as a new nylock bolt ?
Post #233696 8th May 2013 7:01am
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Well - its worked its way loose again and there is a little vibration (not nearly as bad this time). Only done 2000 miles since the last time. I'll get a new Nylok nut, a good dollop of threadlok and i'm going to try to put another nut on the end of the thread to counterlock against the main nut (if I can get one to fit). I'll also use some degreaser to make sure the stub is nice and clean

Has anyone tried this or has another trick up their sleeve to stop this working loose?

Anyone got a picture of the thread/nut/washer plus details of the nut size - in case I need to get some tools before I pull the prop off. Torque settings would be good too

Thanks in advance
Post #277252 27th Oct 2013 6:14pm
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deep down



Member Since: 02 May 2012
Location: France
Posts: 204

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Zambezi Silver
Mine had worked loose after 3500km across Morocco as well as one of the prop-shaft bolts. I had sheared one of the gearbox mounts so I don't think this helped any.

Torque setting is 162nM for the flange nut and 45nM for the prop shaft bolts.

I degreased mine and used Loctite, but will replace the nut once I get back home.

According to the manual you need to renew the felt washer as well.

Remember to drain the transfer box oil before you start..... Whistle
Post #277427 28th Oct 2013 8:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17718

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Do you have rotational play or fore-and-aft play in the flange when the nut is loose?

The one thing I can think of which will inevitably cause this nut to work loose is worn splines on the t-box front output shaft. In this case I don't think it matters what you do, it will work loose.
Post #277449 28th Oct 2013 11:02am
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deep down



Member Since: 02 May 2012
Location: France
Posts: 204

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Zambezi Silver
SteveS wrote:


Anyone got a picture of the thread/nut/washer plus details of the nut size - in case I need to get some tools before I pull the prop off. Torque settings would be good too

Thanks in advance


According to the Microcat it's and M20 nyloc and the felt washer p/n is PYF 500010.
Post #277523 28th Oct 2013 3:30pm
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SteveS



Member Since: 05 Oct 2010
Location: Devon & Berkshire
Posts: 388

England 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Interesting comment re the worn splines - I have in mind for Ashcroft or somebody to do a full rebuild of the TB anyway as a precaution ahead of my next big trip which won't be for a while yet

Re the comment on drain the TB of oil - would that be necessary if i'm just replacing the nut and not actually dismantling the flange/seal etc.

I'll get the nut/washer ordered as it should be a straightforward job

Thanks for all the advice and info

EDIT - there is slight lateral play for sure - haven't looked for fore and aft play particularly
Post #278420 31st Oct 2013 10:34pm
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deep down



Member Since: 02 May 2012
Location: France
Posts: 204

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Zambezi Silver
"Re the comment on drain the TB of oil - would that be necessary if i'm just replacing the nut and not actually dismantling the flange/seal etc. "

That's what I thought until I took the prop shaft off and oil started pouring out. Maybe LR had overfilled the TB...
Post #278511 1st Nov 2013 9:32am
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