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geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

Replacing Transfer Box Input Seal

Good afternoon Defender-ites. I am having a good news, bad news kind of a day today. The TD5 has just passed a sniff-test with flying colours and a coolant pressure test as well... Woop Woop no head gasket failure.

The garage did notice, however that the transfer box input seal is leaking oil down between the two gearboxes.

Is this a DIY job? Does the box have to be dropped or can it be slid backwards and done up in the air?

A mate and I put the box on about a year ago, it was originally off of a TD5 Disco, really regretting not changing the seal now...

16th Apr 2013 12:44pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

Transder box has to come righ out to do that seal.

Its not overly difficult, just time consuming. reckon it'll take about 3~4 hours all told

be careful when you re-install the t/box that you don't damage the new seal when you slide it onto the main box output shaft.

16th Apr 2013 1:07pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

diesel_jim wrote:
Transder box has to come righ out to do that seal.

Its not overly difficult, just time consuming. reckon it'll take about 3~4 hours all told

be careful when you re-install the t/box that you don't damage the new seal when you slide it onto the main box output shaft.

Cheers Jim. I am taking it the best way to do this is to remove the props, transfer brake, drop oil and remove the input gears as well to reduce the weight. Drop the box, replace the seal and refit carefully...

16th Apr 2013 1:16pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

I wouldn't bother removing the internal gears, you'll only save a few kg and cause more work for yourself.

yes, props, handbrake totally (remove the drum then its 4 bolts),speedo drive, transfer levers (13mm nut on the difflock actuator and a clevis pin for hi/low), breather pipe, and the mounting rubber (only need to do the one that bolts onto the t/box)

If you're strong enough, you can lift it down and back up again. It weighs about 50kg, so is a good little benchg press excercise, although you're limited in room to get full arm extension

If you were so inclined, now would be a time to install a 1.2:1 box! longer legs.

16th Apr 2013 1:47pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

diesel_jim wrote:
I wouldn't bother removing the internal gears, you'll only save a few kg and cause more work for yourself.

yes, props, handbrake totally (remove the drum then its 4 bolts),speedo drive, transfer levers (13mm nut on the difflock actuator and a clevis pin for hi/low), breather pipe, and the mounting rubber (only need to do the one that bolts onto the t/box)

If you're strong enough, you can lift it down and back up again. It weighs about 50kg, so is a good little benchg press excercise, although you're limited in room to get full arm extension

If you were so inclined, now would be a time to install a 1.2:1 box! longer legs.

Oooo 50kg bench press

Think I'll do 10 reps just to be sure...

Already got the 1.2:1 (Disco) box in the 110, massive difference for sure. I am wondering whilst I have the box out whether it is worth doing the output seals at the same time. In which case is it worth replacing the output flanges as well?

16th Apr 2013 2:46pm

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