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Phil_C

Member Since: 04 Apr 2013
Location: Luton, UK
Posts: 24

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green

Hi Blackwolf -

Yes - mine was an early one [2000 model year] which had the spigot fitted on the gearbox casing and the internals already installed, before they changed the gearbox casing. I think towards the end of the TD5 run they changed the casing back and difflock became an optional extra again, or standard on certain limited editions of the Disco.

All I needed to do on my TD5 was to source the linkage and a modified gate. It cost me about £100 all in to enable it. My local LR specialist did it for me and afterwards it looked like it had always been there. They fitted an updated sticker on the facia and an alternate gear nob with the correct gate configuration and symbols on it.

I was very surprised to find even the dash light worked. I then had an override switch fitted so that you could turn it to completely manual - if you held the switch whilst starting the engine then the TC and ABS was over ridden and switched off.

Cheers - P 2000 TD5 Disco II, front and rear winches, 2" lift, ARB bumper etc.etc. --
2010 TDCi Puma 90 HT - Bulkhead removal kit, Ashcroft front and rear lockers, Andersons front and rear, Warn XD9000i winch, battery split charge system, Patriot full roof rack. OME Suspension.
2013 Freelander II GS - Factory standard

10th Apr 2013 11:13am

Christian

Member Since: 23 Feb 2013
Location: Doha
Posts: 66

rossy wrote:
In 18 months I've only put it into low once and had trouble getting it back to high without it hopping into neutral. Not doing that again. In fact reading this thread I'm too scared now anyway !

Well it happened exactly the same way to me, and a few months later here I am, with a completely broken transfer box mount

I reckon the mount was dead anyway, the range selection only being a consequence of it...

I don't know how to avoid it though... Chris

10th Apr 2013 11:16am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Phil_C wrote:
Hi Blackwolf -

Yes - mine was an early one [2000 model year] which had the spigot fitted on the gearbox casing and the internals already installed, before they changed the gearbox casing. I think towards the end of the TD5 run they changed the casing back and difflock became an optional extra again, or standard on certain limited editions of the Disco.

All I needed to do on my TD5 was to source the linkage and a modified gate. It cost me about £100 all in to enable it. My local LR specialist did it for me and afterwards it looked like it had always been there. They fitted an updated sticker on the facia and an alternate gear nob with the correct gate configuration and symbols on it.

I was very surprised to find even the dash light worked. I then had an override switch fitted so that you could turn it to completely manual - if you held the switch whilst starting the engine then the TC and ABS was over ridden and switched off.

Cheers - P

Pretty much the same setup as I have, although I had to fit the internal bits as well! The genuine transfer lever housings for High/low/difflock are rare as hens' teeth now!

As you say, eventually customer power caused the difflock to be available as an option again. Mine is an '02 and came from the balck years when none of it was fitted.

Also as you say, you get the best of both worlds with a retrofit - ABS/TC only - ABS/TC/Difflock - Difflock only, and of course all lights etc work.

10th Apr 2013 11:34am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8029

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Phil_C wrote:

There can be a tendency for the lever to not fully engage which can lead to the lever jumping out of low or high range under load. It is sometimes necessary to gently push the lever towards low or high range whilst pulling away and waiting for the linkage to 'drop' the last half inch or so into position. No matter how many times we remind drivers to do this and check it is not uncommon to get that 'clunk' and loss of drive caused by the range slipping out into neutral.
P

teaching the LRE way avoids this too.

i dare say the sand is the main culprit in wrecking linkages out there? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

10th Apr 2013 2:29pm

otter-spotter

Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: Scotland
Posts: 37

Phil C already covered this, but if you have done any kind of move between high and low I agree it's always a good idea, once you have just moved off, to dip the clutch and either push (or pull!) the selector to make sure it has engaged properly.

Also, it's a really good idea to get familiar and confident with using the diff lock. If you are changing a wheel, especially on any kind of slope, once you lift a wheel you have effectively removed the handbrake. The diff lock will at least mean you have spread the braking ability over 2 wheels. One at the front and one at the back. Really need to chock everything too.

Same idea if parking up on a slope offroad (or icy road), if you don't have the diff lock on and one of the wheels is in slippy stuff the motor might just slide away! On a steep slope probably best to put it in low box (check it really goes in!), diff lock (make sure the light comes on), handbrake on and in gear (put it in reverse if facing down hill ?) - you are giving yourself a fighting chance of it staying put..

Sorry if I'm stating the obvious but it's suprising how many people forget just what diff lock does and how it can work to your advantage and, sometimes your disadvantage. 300 TDi 110 CSW

14th Apr 2013 6:02pm

bm52

Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana

My difflock lever is a tad stiff, any recommendation on the best lube, or just spray some WD40 on the linkage?

Thanks BM52

14th Apr 2013 6:41pm

T1G UP

Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey

low range is good when the trailers on aswell as 3 dumpy bags.... so thats 3.5 tonnes

in the snow i was flicking the CDL in all the time upto 50ish mph.

14th Apr 2013 7:04pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

otter-spotter wrote:

...once you lift a wheel you have effectively removed the handbrake.

Once you lift a rear wheel this will be the case. Lifting one front wheel with the handbrake on, both back wheel will still be held with the handbrake.

However lift one back wheel with the handbrake on and the vehicle in gear and it will stay put.

Good practice however is to chock it securely before lifting anything. If you can't chock it (why not?), then engage difflock, gear and handbrake before lifting anything.

16th Apr 2013 11:09am

eutek

Member Since: 03 Mar 2009
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 586

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

I tend to use low range on a daily basis - albeit briefly. Thanks to a helpful suggestion by a forum member, I use it to get up my extremely steep driveway.

The only alternative is to slip the clutch and rev like a madman trying to avoid crashing into the house or the gate on the side of the house. In low, I just let the 110 pull itself up the incline... kind of like on the LR Experience track, except there is no mud and I don't come whoosing down the other side of the hill.

17th Apr 2013 8:56am

otter-spotter

Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: Scotland
Posts: 37

Quote:
Once you lift a rear wheel this will be the case. Lifting one front wheel with the handbrake on, both back wheel will still be held with the handbrake.

However lift one back wheel with the handbrake on and the vehicle in gear and it will stay put.

Not sure this has always been my experience but I'll try it again on some rollers on a hill - I could be wrong. Either way unless I'm on pretty flat ground and chocked I'm always wary of taking a wheel off. I always consider that any situation where one wheel can turn (so without diff lock engaged) could be a situation where it rolls. Land Rover used to state that engaging diff lock was part of wheel changing procedure - not sure if they still do.

There was an incidence of a guy taking a half shaft out when parked up on a steep drive - that didn't work out well either! 300 TDi 110 CSW

17th Apr 2013 6:48pm

BigWheels

Member Since: 21 Mar 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1405

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green

Must do mine to test it out! Good for crawling in long slow traffic queues. Land Rover Defenders. 67 years heritage, minimal appearance changes, still going strong all over the world. Not a fashion vehicle, but fashionable to own. Made for the needy, not the greedy. Ta ta Defender

17th Apr 2013 9:06pm

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green

I have driven loads of Land Rovers over the years and the worst I have had is where a Discovery hadn't selected Low in over 5 years and that needed a wiggle to get into Low and Diff lock- but it went with not much hassle.

Once a week is a bit OTT. I use it weekly on mine, but that is when I need to, but sometimes gone several months without using it and not got even slightly stiff.

I don't grease/ oil the linkage- simple reason why- The linkage doesn't have any constant moving parts to wear anything away, if you put oil and or grease on it the moisture will attract sand, dust and dirt which will then go solid.

Glyn

17th Apr 2013 9:44pm

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