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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
guys - had a go a starting the fix on this last night with my mate and suprise suprise not quite so straight forward.

although we had the acros in place we felt it was a shame to go cutting the ends of the joists off as they obviously provide a significant amount of strength.

so now looking to implent a bolt on solution. what do you think.


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Post #222306 26th Mar 2013 2:05pm
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farmer giles



Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: worcestershire
Posts: 1299

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue
how many joists does this affect caterham? it's just that the strengthening plates seams excessive, as any load is being supported from the timber plate beneath not the notched remainder

the typical two solutions are either a wallplate underneath the joists - your bolted timber is the equivilent; or joist hangers mounted to a timber plate (the timber in the steel web is ideal)
Post #222311 26th Mar 2013 2:19pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
there's about 7 joists (x2 one from each direction)

photo 1 is how it is currently but unfortunately the smaller timber is only screwed to the timber sitting in the web of the steel and not terribly well.

photo 2 is probably my preferred option but I'm not sure I'll be abl to get a suitable drill bit or long enough high tensile bolts?

photo 3 is probaby the easiest to fit once I've found suitable steel work and someone has convinced me it'll work.

I perhaps should take some photos of how it is now. was going to go down the route of straps but its proper messy trying to find a suitable method of trying to install them neatly.


thanks for your response.
Post #222320 26th Mar 2013 2:43pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
To be honest the speedy hangers will actually provide more support as they take the weight at the bittom om the full joist plus will allow some movement as the whole house moves at different temperatures. They are more in keeping with building regs and as such by using a recognised method won't inncur the over curiosity of a building inspector or insurance assessor.
Post #222355 26th Mar 2013 4:36pm
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barbel jim



Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Northants
Posts: 1419

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 HT Tonga Green
All will work Thumbs Up As I understand it the old notched joist used to sit straight on the brickwork (Now removed). You don't need high tensile bolts normal coach bolts will suffice. IMHO I would contact building control and as them which method they would prefer. Contrary to popular opinion they are there to help and will.
You do not need the extra steel work in option 3 screw direct into the supporting timbers will suffice. And I still recommend noggins between the joist. They will take out all the lateral movement and prevent twisting of excising joists Thumbs Up
Post #222366 26th Mar 2013 5:23pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5666

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I would bolt through the rsj and through the two timbers on either side, then glue and screw another timber across the lower part to pick up on the base of all the joists, (as your picture 2, but not bolt through lower member as will remove strength). Then I would put noggins in between all the joist, at the very end, so they sit on the lower cross timber, and can be fixed to the bolted timber inside the rsj.

Andy
Post #222371 26th Mar 2013 5:52pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I'm at a loss sorry guys.

to stand half a chance of drilling the steel I'll need a 300mm long hss bit and then I would imagine the only option will be threaded rod, washers and nuts? due to the size of the timbers I don't think bolting only the larger timber into the web will be possible.

sorry guys but this is something I'm struggling to decide on as its not what I do.


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Post #222459 26th Mar 2013 9:18pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
guys - one of my mates thinks I'm worrying over nothing?

but I'm not convinced.....as an improvement but without taking it too far whats your thoughts on getting some 3/4 or 1" ply and cutting it to the same shape as the last 12 - 18" of floor joist and then glueing / screwing (or bolting) to floor joist?

many thanks
Post #222465 26th Mar 2013 9:42pm
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238kirk



Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Belize Green
To be perfectly honest looking at your picture, those joists although not ideal they wont be going anywhere, there's no need to put re enforcing on the side of the joists, I'd pack everything up solid, put some bolts/threaded bar through the webbing and nog in between the joists, then put the floorboards back down, don't worry about it too much your house won't implode from that, I've come across worse than that on some jobs...
Post #222470 26th Mar 2013 9:56pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
thanks that the sort of stuff I wanted to hear - thanks.

the reinforceing using ply however is likely to be easier than drilling bolting - with that in mind do you think thats an option and do away with the drilling through the steel altogether?

I'll take another photo soon and I suspect it'll make you laugh and demonstrate just how muchk I've been worrying Embarassed


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Post #222472 26th Mar 2013 10:02pm
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238kirk



Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Belize Green
Haha that did make me chuckle a little, you must have cleared the hire place out Thumbs Up
i'd always recommend bolting the timber in the webbing but as the joists go over the steel as well then just make sure everything packed solid and nogged and it will be fine, but I guess you would like to put the re enforcing on aswell for piece of Mind so it wouldn't do any harm.
Post #222476 26th Mar 2013 10:17pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
thank you so much.

glad it made you smile.

so off to get some 1" ply, bolts and glue.....what glue would you recommend - PVA or no nails?


I've been rather concerned about these joists but having had more than one person kindly suggest I'm worrying over nothing is great news - thanks again.

hopefully I'll sleep well tonight.
Post #222479 26th Mar 2013 10:22pm
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238kirk



Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Belize Green
Use wood glue/pva, have fun
Post #222481 26th Mar 2013 10:24pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
thanks and will do.

4x m6 bolts for each?
Post #222482 26th Mar 2013 10:27pm
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238kirk



Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 SW Belize Green
I'd use m8 coach bolts, 4 is plenty enough Very Happy
Post #222484 26th Mar 2013 10:31pm
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