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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Fitting a FCX leather sun visor with light and mirror
Firstly, I apologise this was done on a LHD but cunning use of a mirror or photoshop should sort that out Smile

1. Remove fuse F30 - this is essential unless you want to blow it:

Click image to enlarge

It's the red one in this photo:

Click image to enlarge


2. Unscrew standard sun visors (and send them back to FCX).

3. Gently prize off the see-through cover of the light - fingers are sufficient:

Click image to enlarge


4) Undo the two nuts so the assembly separates from the back plate. Put it somewhere you won't tread on it:

Click image to enlarge


5. You can now detach the live connector (purple wires) and the earth connector (black) and take the back plate out.

Click image to enlarge


6. Making "the hole"... this is a bit daunting (it's in the headliner and could look horrible) but it's fine. The hole is positioned to be invisible to a passenger and driver no matter what position the visor is in. Also, it is just behind the metal roof bracket inside, so you can get your hand/arm in through the headliner opening and forward to get hold of the visor cable end to pull it through:

Click image to enlarge

First, poke (don't drill!) a hole through the headliner with a 3mm drill bit - you'll feel when you get through the tougher part into the cavity. Then use a 4/5 mm bit to make the hole bigger inside. The outside fabric should stretch around the bigger drill bit to keep a tight fit around the cable.

7. Pass the cable into the headliner and grab it from the inside. If you have apelike arms, find a consenting minor to help you.

Click image to enlarge

Screw the sun visor on.

8. Connect the cable ends to the earth on the metal plate and purple/brown (not purple/white) cable on the connector for the light assembly (use the purple/brown cable as it's permanent live). I poked out the OEM connectors and soldered them.

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Note the (ridiculous) bare live rails on the back of the light assembly:

Click image to enlarge

This is why you remove the fuse!

9. Put everything back together. You will probably need to fashion some kind of hook to pull the metal plate down when fixing the light assembly onto it.

Click image to enlarge

Note the earthing washer on the RHS - without a good connection to this nothing works properly.

These visors really are great - not only are they functional but they look absolutely "right", except perhaps, that the leather and stiching are better quality than OEM:

Click image to enlarge


As a credit to these visors, my wife didn't notice until she reached up for the crappy mirror she poked up there. When she did, she didn't question me but just raised her eyebrows and grinned Smile))

Matt

p.s. I also apologise if this is incomplete but I been at the wine and I'm off to watch the footy with my son :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...


Last edited by ZeDefender on 24th Mar 2013 7:05am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #221246 22nd Mar 2013 8:07pm
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Killer90
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Member Since: 09 Oct 2011
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United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Fuji White
Thumbs Up nice write up mate they look great CSK Automotive
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Post #221250 22nd Mar 2013 8:25pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
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United Kingdom 
Thank you for the write up Matt it's brilliant Bow down

I'm glad you (and more importantly) Mrs Matt like them Mr. Green
Post #221309 23rd Mar 2013 7:58am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Tks Matt, good how to...
One question, when unscrewing the sunvisors, do the captive nuts behind the headlining remain in place, i.e. are fixed so that when screwing in the leather ones, those nuts will not have moved out of place/disappeared?
Now that finally there is this how to..., my interest in these wakes up again...
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
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Post #221545 24th Mar 2013 5:12am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Hi Eric

On mine, they are just big fat screws into the metal bracket (the one you should miss when making the hole). I don't think nuts are involved at all.
In any event, everything stays in place - it's a simple screw off-screw on job Thumbs Up

Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...


Last edited by ZeDefender on 24th Mar 2013 6:59am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #221548 24th Mar 2013 6:51am
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Post #221549 24th Mar 2013 6:58am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Please all note - I just looked at my own photo carefully Whistle and edited the "how-to" above as saying use the purple/brown live cable (it looked solid purple at the time) and not the purple/white (obviously stripey) one.

Just to confirm, I've checked it on the Puma wiring diagram - purple/brown comes direct from the fuse box and not via the ECU. In any event, the photo is correct...

In my defense, LR's "brown" stripe is subtle and very purpley, especially in the dim light of the Defender - I'm beginning to think I need glasses Rolling Eyes Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #221552 24th Mar 2013 7:24am
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