 | Home > Technical > Anderson connectors |
 
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582  
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What size Anderson connectors?
SB 175 are  rated at 175 amps continuous or 1000 amps for 8 seconds 
Use minium of 25mm2 copper cable preferably 35mm2 cable The battery box Anderson can be mounted flat on front of the battery box but use good grommets on cable entry or the connector can stick out forward from battery box. Get some good croc clips. 300amp rated ones, fully insulated with a joining braid between the two sides Have a read of this Be aware that some of the claims made on places like ebay are a bit pie in the sky Brendan |
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4th Mar 2013 5:12pm |
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| chipmunk Member Since: 10 May 2012 Location: Kelso Posts: 264 
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Ta Brendan, bought the heavy duty ones after much research, same with jump leads............was sick of chocolate ones with croc's always falling off.
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4th Mar 2013 9:34pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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You might find this thread interesting reading.
Brendan |
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4th Mar 2013 10:12pm |
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| womble Member Since: 27 Jan 2012 Location: south east Posts: 272 
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i am sure you have already thought of this....but be careful that when you connect your leads to the anderson plug that the croc clips are not touching.i have this setup on my defender for the same seat reason and you have to be careful when using them
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22nd Mar 2013 8:09am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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That is one of the reasons we use/sell heavy duty crocodile clips where the outside of the clips are fully insulated.
Also be careful when attaching non fully insulated croc clips onto a battery in a Defender battery box. Thinking about the general advice on jump starting cars of putting negative croc clip onto an engine mounting point/earth it is not really practical if jump starting a Defender! Brendan |
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22nd Mar 2013 8:33am |
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| WarPig Member Since: 04 Dec 2009 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1748 
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Brendan, I've always put the -ve croc clips on the -ve battery terminals instead of the engine block. Would you say this is wrong?
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22nd Mar 2013 10:06am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17626 
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The reason why this is not recommended is to prevent the last connection to be made from being anywhere near a potentially charging battery.
Lead/Acid batteries produce hydrogen gas when charging (even the calcium types used on Landrovers do this to an extent, although the principal reason for the introduction of calcium to the electrodes was to reduce gassing) and hydrogen is explosive - think Hindenberg! If there is a spark in the vicinity of a gassing battery there is a very good chance that the battery will explode, hence the advice to make the last connection - the one which may spark - well away from the battery. That being said, Landrover batteries are the calcium type which spark less, and certainly when installed on a Defender have an integral vent pipe which releases any gas under the seatbox. The chance of blowing up your Defender by this means, is, I suggest, extremely small. I did once have a battery blow (on a Volvo earthmover) and it was very spectcular and quite scary! I don't mind if I never see it happen again. Bits of battery were scattered over a radius of about 50 yards, and of course everthing nearby was drenched in acid. Fortunately and quite by chance I was standing on the opposite side of the machine to the battery at the time, and no-one else was nearby. |
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22nd Mar 2013 10:47am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17626
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PS to the above, the other thing as Brendan says is to be careful in a Defender with the +ve connection, due to the risk of a bare part of the pos croc clip touching the seatbox. Since the seatbox is grounded, fireworks and destruction would result from this.
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22nd Mar 2013 10:50am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Blackwolf has explained the logic well.
OK I was just musing on jump starting a Defender or other vehicle which has a remote battery from the engine. Length of jump leads come into play then. Good jump start procedure can be found HERE Note the actual proceedure carefully. How many people just slap jump leads on start dead vehicle, whip jump leads off and then play around sparking the jump leads. Brendan |
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22nd Mar 2013 12:07pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5824 
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Interesting read,
That is not how I'd choose to do it. I would not connect mine, whilst my engine was off, due to my battery drain. And I would never rev the other vehicle whilst mine was still connected, due to my alternator/system getting a major spike. Not to sure about turning off the now started one before removing leads, also. Andy |
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22nd Mar 2013 12:18pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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I like this statement;
If the jump leads get hot switch off both engines and allow the leads to cool to avoid a possible fire. Hmm, now if there is a dead short on the duff battery car or the leads have been connected wrongly I don't think I'd be stood there checking to see if they've cooled down. There are still those rare occasions when you come across non negative earth vehicles especially when dealing with older motors. |
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22nd Mar 2013 1:09pm |
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| womble Member Since: 27 Jan 2012 Location: south east Posts: 272
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when using an anderson plug setup i guess it's better to connect the croc clips first and then the plug?correct ?or would this go against eveything that has just been said about connecting the batteries positive 1st then negative.in the past i have always put the plug on then the clips without problem but maybe i have been lucky
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23rd Mar 2013 2:35pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Personally I would be plugging the connector in with the croc clips safe out of the way then attach to the duff vehicle, just as you do when you connect convetional jump leads
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23rd Mar 2013 2:51pm |
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| udderlyoffroad Member Since: 18 Jul 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 124
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I tend to connect the (fully insulated) croc clips to the stricken vehicle first, then connect to the truck via the Anderson connector. That way, if anything goes wrong, I can quickly and safely yank apart Anderson connectors, without getting near the arcing and sparking. Also, that way you know that the jump cables are dead when you go to connect/disconnect the clips
I was always taught to connect the negative croc clip of the stricken vehicle to the engine block. Remember electrons actually flow from negative to positive, so you want t ease the path to the starter motor as much as possible, not to charge up a dead battery. In my 30 years I've yet to come across anything other than a negative earth vehicle, but I suppose those that deal with classic motors will say otherwise. Real trucks don't have spark plugs |
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23rd Mar 2013 3:33pm |
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