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ajctraveler

Member Since: 08 Oct 2012
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 97

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

I want my 110 to be level and it's not..

So here is my 110 when I first bought it, stock everything and it's pretty level front/back, if anything the back is slightly higher:

Click image to enlarge

Since then I got OME springs, front and back and obviously a bunch of other stuff, but now the rear is sitting noticeably lower than the front:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I know there is obviously more weight in the back now, but I still don't think the springs should be effected so much and I'd really be happier if it were all level. Also these shots aren't even with a full tank.

Any advice or insight? My Travel Page

26th Feb 2013 1:19pm

Lishlandy

Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: High Wycombe
Posts: 941

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey

Come back and get a 3.2 put in to weigh it down at the front more

. Maybe look at the load levels of various springs out there and look for the stiffest 'mothers' you can find. If not there are custom fabrication companies out there that can make custom springs that will be able to provide springs to the load requirement you would require. ===================================
Steve
90 xs sw in Stonoway Grey - Sold
110 USW X-TECH

26th Feb 2013 1:27pm

Luismi

Member Since: 04 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 178

as Lishlandy say custom is the way to go

every car is diferent diferent equipment inside and maybe the most important diferent driver and we all tend to buy standard heavy duty of super heavy duty or watever.

weight your car per tyre as you usually travel with it and choose the right spring for it.

The typical seem to be go to a HD springs, however, doing that you are loosing the most important thing suspension overall in a expedition car as yours, and even more in a defender as you will experineced in yours travels.

Cheers

26th Feb 2013 1:48pm

ibexman

Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: Essex
Posts: 2945

Air lift helpers or inner 130 springs

26th Feb 2013 2:30pm

SteveG

Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 660

Hi Tony

Can you please measure all four corners between top and lower spring mounts to see what difference there is front to rear. Going by pics it looks like it will be at least 1"

Assuming you are happy with existing springs you have two choices. OME spring packers, part no. For 110 rear is OMELRCP3, or springs spacers.

OME Spring packers are basically steel rings 8mm thick designed for adjusting height. You can place on bottom or top of spring or both to give 8mm or 16mm increase. OME advise one on bottom. At a push you could fit two on top and one on bottom to give 24mm, but to be safe you should be using spring retainers.

Spring spacers bolt to bottom spring mount and raise the mount by either 1, 1.5 or 2 inches. You can buy these or get them made locally. They tend to be either welded steel or billet aluminium.

By raising height you are reducing length of travel, so shock won't have as much travel before they meet limit and you are also changing propshaft angle. For overland use you really want to avoid going above a 1" lift over stock to minimise any issues like increased wear etc. Having said that, if extra weight is bringing rear down below stock height you should be ok. just mentioing so that you take this into account when you raise it.

Cheers

Steve

26th Feb 2013 2:32pm

taffrican

Member Since: 14 Jan 2011
Location: Living room
Posts: 624

SteveG wrote:
Hi Tony

Can you please measure all four corners between top and lower spring mounts to see what difference there is front to rear. Going by pics it looks like it will be at least 1"

Assuming you are happy with existing springs you have two choices. OME spring packers, part no. For 110 rear is OMELRCP3, or springs spacers.

OME Spring packers are basically steel rings 8mm thick designed for adjusting height. You can place on bottom or top of spring or both to give 8mm or 16mm increase. OME advise one on bottom. At a push you could fit two on top and one on bottom to give 24mm, but to be safe you should be using spring retainers.

Spring spacers bolt to bottom spring mount and raise the mount by either 1, 1.5 or 2 inches. You can buy these or get them made locally. They tend to be either welded steel or billet aluminium.

By raising height you are reducing length of travel, so shock won't have as much travel before they meet limit and you are also changing propshaft angle. For overland use you really want to avoid going above a 1" lift over stock to minimise any issues like increased wear etc. Having said that, if extra weight is bringing rear down below stock height you should be ok. just mentioing so that you take this into account when you raise it.

Cheers

Steve

I did exactly that, 1" spacers under the spring seat, worked a treat, rear end of mine looks level now no matter what the load in the back

Optimists say the glass is half full..
Pessimists say the glass is half empty..
Engineers say the glass is twice the size it needs to be!

Last edited by taffrican on 27th Feb 2013 3:08am. Edited 1 time in total

26th Feb 2013 8:03pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5703

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

As above, if you like the ride, fit spacers. Don't just fit heavier duty spring as it will give you a hard ride. Gwyn Lewis does a few different types, and ones as small as 6mm so you can fine tune your setup.

Andy

26th Feb 2013 8:17pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

alternatively stick something heavy out front like a big fat winch, ps it looks great DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

26th Feb 2013 8:22pm

VeeTee

Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

After I upgraded my old springs and dampers with new HD springs and Koni Heavy Tracks (+ 1"), I also needed spacers on the rear springs to get it level. Sits perfectly level now and ride is fine. Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite

26th Feb 2013 8:36pm

ajctraveler

Member Since: 08 Oct 2012
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 97

SteveG wrote:
Hi Tony

Can you please measure all four corners between top and lower spring mounts to see what difference there is front to rear. Going by pics it looks like it will be at least 1"

Assuming you are happy with existing springs you have two choices. OME spring packers, part no. For 110 rear is OMELRCP3, or springs spacers.

OME Spring packers are basically steel rings 8mm thick designed for adjusting height. You can place on bottom or top of spring or both to give 8mm or 16mm increase. OME advise one on bottom. At a push you could fit two on top and one on bottom to give 24mm, but to be safe you should be using spring retainers.

Spring spacers bolt to bottom spring mount and raise the mount by either 1, 1.5 or 2 inches. You can buy these or get them made locally. They tend to be either welded steel or billet aluminium.

By raising height you are reducing length of travel, so shock won't have as much travel before they meet limit and you are also changing propshaft angle. For overland use you really want to avoid going above a 1" lift over stock to minimise any issues like increased wear etc. Having said that, if extra weight is bringing rear down below stock height you should be ok. just mentioing so that you take this into account when you raise it.

Cheers

Steve

Exactly what I was looking for, good man!

I'd be happy with another inch in the rear, so I'm going to try the single 8mm spacer. Seems a good balance taking everything into consideration.

Cheers My Travel Page

27th Feb 2013 2:42am

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green

ajctraveler wrote:

I'd be happy with another inch in the rear, so I'm going to try the single 8mm spacer. Seems a good balance taking everything into consideration.

Cheers

.....No sexual innuendos there!!

Just out of intrest- what springs and shocks are you running (Part numbers)- I am still 50:50 between OME or airbags. I will be doing a whole load of overland soon and would like my rear to sit nice and high- helps keep the departure angle.

Glyn

27th Feb 2013 6:39am

bpman

Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

slap a winch on the front, that will balance it out

27th Feb 2013 7:05am

ajctraveler

Member Since: 08 Oct 2012
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 97

FML

I ended up ordering new OME HD springs and now I fixed my front/back lean but ended up with a left/right lean!

Seems they aren't handed, which is what I originally thought was the issue, but my car is leaning left

I may try swapping the springs from side to side and see what happens or maybe I'm going to need a single spacer after all

bpman wrote:
slap a winch on the front, that will balance it out

Already got one..

Click image to enlarge My Travel Page

9th Mar 2013 10:31am

taffrican

Member Since: 14 Jan 2011
Location: Living room
Posts: 624

Don't fret too much Tony, you live and learn

Optimists say the glass is half full..
Pessimists say the glass is half empty..
Engineers say the glass is twice the size it needs to be!

9th Mar 2013 5:18pm

keith

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2212

The rear is 1 inch higher than front . Iv always gone for 2 inch spacer on front and 1 inch on rear , this makes it level and gives a little more overall height , I change the shocks for +2 gas all round . No need to alter props or other mechanics .

9th Mar 2013 5:45pm

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