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domcoutts

Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 111

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey

EGR again.. (I think)

Apologies in advance as I know EGRs have been covered at length, but I was hoping someone with more knowledge might be able to help confirm if my suspicions are right...

I have a 08 Puma that has covered 60k-something miles and in the last couple of weeks has been playing up, but only whilst it is cold. Symptoms as follows:

Intermittent loss of power when at low revs (anything much less than 2,000 rpm)
Revs will drop right down to below normal idle speed and there's no response from the throttle
At just below 2,000 rpm there is a slight 'hunting'

When it's warmed up a bit it after a few minutes of driving, it seems to run okay.

Certainly the fuel consumption has bottomed out.. this tank is now nearly empty having done only 300 miles!

I'm not aware of any black emissions, if anything it might be a bit blueish.

The EGR chukka chukka noises seem no different to how they've always been.

So following advice that I've read on here, I disconnected the EGR this morning before starting, but it didn't seem to make any difference... it still had power loss and hunted.

My query therefore is whether I should be considering anything else. Is it possible that the EGR is stuck open, hence why disconnecting it didn't solve the problem, or if it's making the correct chukka chukka noises, does that mean that it is closing properly?

My next tack would be to remove the EGR, clean it, and if necessary, physically close it.. but having seen what a ball ache job it is to access it, I'd like to be sure that I'm not overlooking some other obvious cause of my woes!

Any help will be very welcome. I have a great local Land Rover specialist, but mine is just about the first puma he's got his hands dirty on, so outside hammers, spanners and good ol' fashioned mechanics, it's a case of the blind leading the blind! (Hope you're not reading this Gary

)

ps I dont have a scanguage device or similar so don't have any fault codes etc.

24th Jan 2013 10:29am

mick

Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red

Might be this http://www.defender2.net/forum/post123953.html#123953

24th Jan 2013 11:09am

domcoutts

Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 111

Hi Mick,

Thanks for the link.. Mine doesn't seem to clatter though, this evening when it was the worst it's been, when I eventually got going it seemed to make a bit of a whistling noise.. A bit like a turbo. But that stopped when it had sufficiently warmed up.

24th Jan 2013 7:18pm

Apynala

Member Since: 17 Oct 2009
Location: Morroco
Posts: 88

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White

Hello,

It's exactly what happened to mine this winter. You have to take it off and put some oil into pinions.
Now, it works.

Bye

25th Jan 2013 9:16pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

Apynala wrote:
You have to take it off and put some oil into pinions.
Now, it works.

If your a contortionist then you'll have no trouble.

⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

25th Jan 2013 9:23pm

Apynala

Member Since: 17 Oct 2009
Location: Morroco
Posts: 88

custom90steve wrote:

If your a contortionist then you'll have no trouble.

... and less injuries. I've left some skin on metal parts of the engine when I removed mine.

25th Jan 2013 9:41pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

Likewise.

⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

25th Jan 2013 9:42pm

domcoutts

Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 111

Thanks Apynala, at least it confirms my suspicions. It was a devil of a job removing the plug (got big hands with short stubby fingers) so dreading the job of removing it.

There's no way the cover could be removed in situ and give it a spray of WD40??

25th Jan 2013 9:51pm

Apynala

Member Since: 17 Oct 2009
Location: Morroco
Posts: 88

domcoutts wrote:
...
There's no way the cover could be removed in situ and give it a spray of WD40??

I think it's not possible.

Sorry!

25th Jan 2013 10:18pm

domcoutts

Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: Kent
Posts: 111

Apynala wrote:
domcoutts wrote:
...
There's no way the cover could be removed in situ and give it a spray of WD40??

I think it's not possible.

Sorry!

Wishful thinking then, ho hum

25th Jan 2013 10:21pm

SGoggin

Member Since: 04 Jul 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 19

I reckon you could drill a very small hole in the plastic cover and use some spray chain lube to inject some grease. And then not have to remove the EGR valve. I've got an old EGR valve sittign here that I've pulled apart and I reckon you could easily do this if you get the right spot.

15th Feb 2013 3:23am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

SGoggin wrote:
I reckon you could drill a very small hole in the plastic cover and use some spray chain lube to inject some grease. And then not have to remove the EGR valve. I've got an old EGR valve sittign here that I've pulled apart and I reckon you could easily do this if you get the right spot.

Bear in mind there is a new version and old version of the EGR for th 2.4 and they both do the same job but are slightly different. (casing) ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

15th Feb 2013 11:19am

Dieselhead

Member Since: 21 Oct 2012
Location: Pulborough. West Sussex
Posts: 552

I changed an EGR valve on a mates puma today.

Took under an hour. 2 x 8mm head bolts on the bottom & 2 x 10mm bolts for the side

Found the best way is 1/4 drive sockets with lots of extensions

Best way to get to the lower 10mm bolt is to lay under the truck & reach up

I held the lower metal gasket in place with some grease

I did have some skin left on my hands when I had finished

Chris

2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green
1953 Series 1 for restoration
1983 Mini Mayfair
2004 VW T5 Camper
2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers
Classic Bolens Garden Tractors

16th Feb 2013 7:46pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20294

Dieselhead wrote:

Best way to get to the lower 10mm bolt is to lay under the truck & reach up

I did that. Damned tight though. You wait until the aches kick in now.

⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️

16th Feb 2013 7:48pm

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