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kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Charge to auxiliary battery

I currently have an IBS dual battery system connected up to two yellow top Optimas. I've noticed recently that the auxiliary battery only shows 12.2 volts and the charge indicators on the IBS module don't come on at all. This is a very recent thing - seems to have started when I completely flattened both batteries and had to slave from my little commuting Punto

- very embarassing, but no spectators....

Battery voltage display shows the main battery increasing when the engine is running (showing a charge), but the aux. battery staying static at 12.2 volts.

I've listened, and can hear, the relay closing (both manual and/or auto). Have also put a meter on the 2 batteries and confirmed what the IBS display is showing i.e. main battery charging, aux, static at 12.2 volts. Haven't yet been able to prove that the relay is making a good connection though (just listened to it) - that's next (hopefully this evening).

Does anyone know how the actual charge indicators on the IBS module function? I'm not sure whether they require both batteries to be connected and charging, for example, so the lack of display could be tied in with lack of charge to the aux battery. There are only four wires to the module so this indicator must be controlled electronically through the module.

At the same time as managing to flatten both batteries, I had the dash off (TD5). The display is fitted to the dash so was disconnected at the time. There is a simple plug in the loom and, because I do have two battery voltage displays plus the ability to connect the two batteries, I can't see it is down to a poorly connected plug.

I also haven't removed the batteries nor put them on a separate charger so the Defender has charged both to the level they are currently showing - which implies something was working after being totally flattened.

The IBS system is over 4 years old (fitted in 2008) so is not the latest 'microcontroller' version. Batteries were fitted at the same time.

Any thoughts?

Tony

24th Jan 2013 8:22am

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green

Sounds like pretty much the same system as me.

With the engine off press the display button. One batt will be at about 13ish volts and as you say the second is 12.2. With the display still on, press the 'link' button. The batteries should adjust and read somewhere in the middle. If it doesn't, your relay isn't making contact.

Glyn

24th Jan 2013 9:47am

kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Glyn

Tried that. Displays don't adjust. I guessed the relay wasn't making contact, although there is an audible 'click'. I know this isn't an absolute guarantee, but I would have expected a complete failure if it was the relay.

Wondered also whether the lack of any charge related LEDs was related in any way?

Tony

24th Jan 2013 11:45am

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

If you press the 'link' button it should link them no matter what- whether it is charging or not.

It sounds like something isn't right- sounds like a loose cable somewhere?

Glyn

24th Jan 2013 1:30pm

kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Linking the batteries via the IBS had no effect and neither did earthing the relay coil to force the contacts to close. I slaved the aux battery off the main last night which caused both IBS battery voltage displays to increase (rather then just the main, as before) and also the charge indicator to kick in

. This latter display, I suspect, shows that there has to be a voltage increase on each bank for IBS to display a 'charge'. Makes sense seeing as there is only a single feed from each battery to the IBS module.

Killing the engine and removing the slave, the aux voltage stayed high at 13.5 volts, which is not a healthy sign. I've taken the battery out and put it on the CTeK - hopefully this will resurrect it... Otherwise I'm looking for another Optima or perhaps 2 replacement batteries (they are the same age - fitted in 2006)

Tony

25th Jan 2013 7:37am

kingofthesparks

Member Since: 06 Jan 2011
Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants
Posts: 987

Burnt contacts in relay ???

25th Jan 2013 8:30am

kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Possibly, but I am erring towards the battery because of the high off-load voltage it showed after disconnecting the slave. I'll see what it's like after a thorough charge on the CTeK - fingers crossed

.

Tony

25th Jan 2013 9:30am

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Just another idea......... bit crazy but about 2 years ago mine went a bit loco and displayed all sorts of signs.

Try disconnecting the control box at the 4 pin plug (the semi waterproof one that is a b!tch to get together) then with everything off leave it for about 10mins. Re-connect the plug and then turn the vehicle on.

I thought mine was dead but this cured it (don't know why I didn't think of it before).

Glyn

25th Jan 2013 2:37pm

kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Glyn

I'll give that a go. My plug is behind the dash so is even more of a

to get at as I have to pull the front part of the dash forward, take the top off etc. (TD5, remember).

Battery still on charge at the moment - 21 hours and still showing as not charged (CTeK 3600). It's in the garage at around 0 degrees mind...

I have had that plug apart recently - mentioned earlier in this post but discounted as I had some display.

Wait and see what the battery charge does for me first.

Tony

25th Jan 2013 5:05pm

WarPig

Member Since: 04 Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1748

1996 Defender 110 300 Tdi USW Bonatti Grey

Could it be that the battery is nackered having gone flat? Saying that, 12.2v is about 60% charged I think.

25th Jan 2013 5:27pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

kzycnn wrote:
Glyn

I'll give that a go. My plug is behind the dash so is even more of a to get at as I have to pull the front part of the dash forward, take the top off etc. (TD5, remember).

Battery still on charge at the moment - 21 hours and still showing as not charged (CTeK 3600). It's in the garage at around 0 degrees mind...

I have had that plug apart recently - mentioned earlier in this post but discounted as I had some display.

Wait and see what the battery charge does for me first.

Tony

If you've taken the plug apart recently could one of the pins have been pushed out of the back when re connecting?

25th Jan 2013 9:44pm

kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Had the relay apart and the main wire from one side of the heavy duty contact to the relay body is broken in two. There is evidence that it has been tracking for a while but no real burn marks. A clean break across a section of braided wire.

New relay on the cards then.....

At least that is a bit cheaper than a battery

Tony

27th Jan 2013 6:04pm

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

You will need a 200 amp relay then. Cost about £30.

I would certainly consider giving both batteries a good charge on your ctek charger.

Brendan

27th Jan 2013 6:39pm

kzycnn

Member Since: 24 Apr 2009
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 277

Brendan, you have a PM, for a relay and a blue sea fuse box (whilst I'm in there!)

The relay fitted was 100 amps, which I would have thought was up to the job. Happy to put a 200 amp one back though - give me a bit of insurance

Both batteries have been on the CTeK this weekend.

Tony

27th Jan 2013 7:05pm

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

Awesome to hear you have found the fault...... is it repairable?

p.s. The blue-sea fuse box is a beaut

you won't be disappointed.

Glyn

27th Jan 2013 7:41pm

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