diesel_jim wrote:

I like the look of that guage, seen it before and thought "hmmm... yes please"

Here you go ....

http://www.mcnallyelectronics.com/

http://shop.mcnallyelectronics.com/category.sc?categoryId=3

Col. 1979 Series 3 109 FFR (ex Aust Army.)
2006 Defender TD5 110.
2012 Trackabout CT.

diesel_jim wrote:

If you had the EGR removed, on the Td5, you could stick the probe into the blanking plate at the end of the manifold?

Don't know how accurate this would be, as I suppose it would be reading just that one cylinder more than the rest.

3 Lions wrote:

diesel_jim wrote:

If you had the EGR removed, on the Td5, you could stick the probe into the blanking plate at the end of the manifold?

Don't know how accurate this would be, as I suppose it would be reading just that one cylinder more than the rest.

I suppose that would work though, wouldn't it?

Col.

I wouldn't do that, when it breaks its going through your turbo! Needs to be post turbo.

Steve 

Steve B wrote:

3 Lions wrote:

diesel_jim wrote:

If you had the EGR removed, on the Td5, you could stick the probe into the blanking plate at the end of the manifold?

Don't know how accurate this would be, as I suppose it would be reading just that one cylinder more than the rest.

I suppose that would work though, wouldn't it?

Col.

I wouldn't do that, when it breaks its going through your turbo! Needs to be post turbo.

Steve

Ooopps!  1979 Series 3 109 FFR (ex Aust Army.)
2006 Defender TD5 110.
2012 Trackabout CT.

Steve B wrote:

I wouldn't do that, when it breaks its going through your turbo! Needs to be post turbo.

Steve

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Has to be pre-turbo. Temperature drop across the turbo is massive!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgPHKwoo8fk

As you can see from the video the whole manifold is glowing red before the exhaust even starts to show signs of heat. You want to measure where there is most chance of failure- I know on the Toymota Land Cruisers they put it as close to cylinder 4 as possible as that is the one that is the one that melts.

Most effective place would be to tap the manifold just before the turbo (where the pipes go to one). But for this you would have to remove the manifold from the vehicle to prevent any swarf getting into to turbo.

Easiest place would be into the EGR blanking plate and would give you a good reading as the exhaust gasses traveling from cylinder 1 and 5 will be the hottest.

Glyn

Glynparry25 wrote:

Steve B wrote:

I wouldn't do that, when it breaks its going through your turbo! Needs to be post turbo.

Steve

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Has to be pre-turbo. Temperature drop across the turbo is massive!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgPHKwoo8fk

As you can see from the video the whole manifold is glowing red before the exhaust even starts to show signs of heat. You want to measure where there is most chance of failure- I know on the Toymota Land Cruisers they put it as close to cylinder 4 as possible as that is the one that is the one that melts.

Most effective place would be to tap the manifold just before the turbo (where the pipes go to one). But for this you would have to remove the manifold from the vehicle to prevent any swarf getting into to turbo.

Easiest place would be into the EGR blanking plate and would give you a good reading as the exhaust gasses traveling from cylinder 1 and 5 will be the hottest.

Glyn

Hi Glyn,

What your saying is correct, you just don't put it pre turbo as the thermocouples do break quite regularly. Our engineers just calculate the temperature loss if you need to know the temperature at the valve.

Steve

Edit: I will ask the question tomorrow. 

Steve B wrote:

Hi Glyn,

What your saying is correct, you just don't put it pre turbo as the thermocouples do break quite regularly. Our engineers just calculate the temperature loss if you need to know the temperature at the valve.

Steve

A thermocouple shouldn't break up providing it is good quality and is checked periodically- a good one is more likely to dissolve/ wear away. Plus I have never seen one break in 10 years of modifying many different cars. The temperature after a turbo can vary massively compared to the manifold depending on your driving at the time. It will not read correct as the temperature goes up (can be 200-300 degC off- as seen in the video) and can have a delay so you have melted a piston or two whilst your gauge is still reading 700 degrees.

So I will throw it out there.......... It may break up into the turbo which may result in damage (depending on the size of the pieces)- worse case scenario is buying a new turbo...... or it may read incorrectly and react too slow and you melt piston 1 or 5 (don't really know which is more prone on the TD5 lump) which results in either re-building or replacing the whole engine.

There is no way of working out what the temperature will be before the turbo as this will vary depending on the load and style of driving.

Glyn

me@td5.org wrote:

I like the McNally gauge but it isn't much cheaper than a SPA now once you get it over.



It's the right colour as well!

I must say I prefer the McNally one..... it is so much easier to see what the boost is doing on an analogue style gauge.

I have now decided on the Madman EMS2 (if they respond )


Click image to enlarge

Does a whole lot more with built in alarms for about the same price (thanks to the current exchange rate).

Glyn