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Ric

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 209

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Door theft protection,

Was thinking about hammering in slightly larger ball bearings into the torx screw heads, or getting some smaller ball bearing and sticking them in with solder!!
Any thoughts, good or bad

its only a car!

26th Dec 2012 12:41am

Tiger

Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

unless your door bolts are S/S why not use the those super magnetic Ball bearings?

26th Dec 2012 6:45am

bpman

Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

then cover with coloured silicone sealant

26th Dec 2012 6:47am

K9F

Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey

Re: Door theft protection,

Ric wrote:
Was thinking about hammering in slightly larger ball bearings

You'd never get the solder to take!

Page 2.....

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic8589-15.html If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

26th Dec 2012 10:26am

Ric

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 209

Thanks.
another option would be just to drill out the inside of the bolt heads.
if i need to get them off then i'd have to dremel the sides or a slit for a flat head screw driver? its only a car!

27th Dec 2012 12:33am

Rakthi

Member Since: 30 Nov 2012
Location: Where the cats are
Posts: 200

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HCPU Stornoway Grey

Might dremelling out a slot for a flat head screw diver not be a tad difficult when the heads are recessed?

I think just filling the recess with construction strength silicone would be enough of a deterrent. Would take them too long to scrape it out.

27th Dec 2012 1:41am

Ric

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 209

Heads prominent enough, only need a small slit to knock a driver in,

Probably easier than resin.
With a silicon surely you'll still be able to knock a torx bit in there! its only a car!

27th Dec 2012 1:53am

K9F

Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

Ric wrote:
With a silicon surely you'll still be able to knock a torx bit in there!

^^^Not a chance!

Ric wrote:
Heads prominent enough, only need a small slit to knock a driver in,

The heads are indeed recessed unless you've got after market bolts as shown on the photo. The two bolts on the door itself are recessed at difeferent depths and you would not get a cutting tool in there to cut a slot without damaging the hinge itself. Silicon would have to be meticulously picked out to get a torx bit in there believe me. The idea is as a deterrent as any determined thief will be able to get in several ways very easily.

The 'layered approach' is best in my view.....Taken from another thread.....

K9F wrote:
It certainly surprised me....

This is from another website and I think the 'ethos' behind the 'layered approach' is possibly the best way and is the one I myself have adopted, needn't cost a packet either..for example applying resin/ball bearings to torx screws etc....

It is clear that there is no single magic solution to security. Each security product just buys you time - and it is time that is the real deterrent to potential thieves, not loud alarms nor flashing lights. Most people simply ignore alarms. The more time your vehicle takes to steal, the greater the chance a potential thief will be caught so the more likely they are to move on to a less protected vehicle.

Curiously, the magic time delay is roughly 2 minutes. A delay of 2 mins will make most thieves move to another vehicle. A delay of 4 mins will not give you twice the protection (a case of diminishing returns). However, two security products which each take more than 2 minutes to defeat does seem to offer double the protection. This is the reason specialists recommend a 'layered' approach. Each product provides one layer of protection and you decide how many layers you need for the risk in your area.

If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

27th Dec 2012 8:46am

Dave-H

Member Since: 08 Feb 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1507

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green

Silicon or drilling out heads is no real deterrent ... you can readily buy adaptors for removing knackered headed screws/allen bolts/torx bolts etc that fit a cordless drill/impact gun and cut into the remaining material to unscrew .... if your scum comes prepared then silicon or drilled out head is only a mild delaying factor.

Stainless BB superglued into the head works best, very difficult to prize out and owing to the shape/material they are almost impossible to overcome without spending a lot of time ....

Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant.

27th Dec 2012 10:38am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17353

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Unless you do the ball-bearing trick it would be easy enough to drill the head off the fastener, the remove the door, then use a quality stud extractor to remove the residue of the bolts. This is time-consuming but simple and I imagine is an effective deterrent to anyone thinking of just stealing the doors, since drilling out enough to get the doors will take a while. I doubt it will deter theft of the vehicle for subsequent stripping when time isn't such an issue.

If you have inserted ball-bearings it is likely that you'll only get the doors off by extracting the hinge-pins or sacrificing the hinges. It would not be at all easy!

27th Dec 2012 10:48am

Ric

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 209

K9F
Lol that's me thinking from my living room, & not been next to the car.
Your right with the screws on the door side. That would take a lot of concentration and disc changing to get at them.

On the silicon front, are you talking about a different product to what would be used to seal window frames etc.
If so, do you have a brand name?

When the layered approach is spoken about, is it intended for the same goal, ie solely to pinch the doors or the steel the car,
How could you layer the theft of say the doors, would it just be one ball bearing in each side for anti drill, and silicon in the remainder.

Obviously on the car theft front, it's things like: mechanical (pedal cover) then immobilisers, then trackers etc

Thanks for the comments and help its only a car!

27th Dec 2012 10:48am

Ric

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 209

Blackwolf & Dave-h
Thanks,
I missed your posts before when I replied to k9f

I've plenty to think about,
It's great living where defenders are treated as pick n mix

its only a car!

27th Dec 2012 11:32am

K9F

Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

Ric wrote:
K9F If so, do you have a brand name? How could you layer the theft of say the doors, would it just be one ball bearing in each side for anti drill, and silicon in the remainder.

I certainly do have a brand name seeing as you asked....(forum joke as I have mentioned it many times in other threads)....

SIKAFLEX 29i Marine Grade....

http://www.bosunbobs.com/en/Sika-Sikaflex-...tAodcmAAdw

Picture paints 100 words.....

Click image to enlarge

The recessed bolts by the time you seal the bearings in you can't even see them....

If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

27th Dec 2012 1:05pm

Ric

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: South Yorkshire
Posts: 209

Cheers, your right with the picture,
Neat job
What size balls do you have?

its only a car!

27th Dec 2012 2:20pm

GUM97

Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3555

1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Stornoway Grey

Ric wrote:
What size balls do you have?

Ooh, well thats a bit forthcoming isn't it

An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948"

27th Dec 2012 2:39pm

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